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Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

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AFE rep said the BHAF was a piece of...

Swepco Gear Oil

Well the Frantz filter from e-bay came in. It was sealed in the original box. It had to be made in the early to mid 70's so it's probably older than I am.



I noticed a little rust so I decided to pull out the paper and replace it. I'm glad I did as the inside of the container was rusty. I'm going to clean it up. Need to order the restriction and the return line.



The instructions said not to return the oil to a moving part. If you return the oil through the oil fill in the valve cover does it hit a rocker or anything? Is this anything to be conserned about?
 
DaveK98 said:
Well the Frantz filter from e-bay came in. It was sealed in the original box. It had to be made in the early to mid 70's so it's probably older than I am.



I noticed a little rust so I decided to pull out the paper and replace it. I'm glad I did as the inside of the container was rusty. I'm going to clean it up. Need to order the restriction and the return line.



The instructions said not to return the oil to a moving part. If you return the oil through the oil fill in the valve cover does it hit a rocker or anything? Is this anything to be conserned about?



By moving part, I am sure they mean trying to directly oil (lubricate) something like a bearing... simply dropping oil into the valve cover will pose no issues.



steved
 
I just bought a Amsoil Filter mount and two filters off eBay... going to also get a cooler and plumb it: supply, filter, cooler, return... I doubt the cooler will do much, but what the heck... it'd be easy enough to plumb in.



So, a couple weeks and I should have a bypass filter...



steved
 
I have been running bypass filter on my truck, using Shell Rotella oil, I change all filters and oil at 25,000 mile intervals. Have never had a problem. I have had oil analysed a few times and never had a issue with analysis. I did use the Puradyne filter and switched to the Frantz a couple of months ago. The Frantz seems to keep the oil visibly cleaner but I have not had it analyzed.

397675 carefree miles and it still runs better than new.



73, John
 
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Phew 3 hrs and I am at the end of one of the best threads I have ever read!! I am about to move to central america and my truck already has 430 k kms on it so the longer she keeps going strong the better. I liked the look of the amsoil system better but the idea of using toilet paper is far more appealing especially when trying to find filters down there is concerned and money/enviro issues. Surely good tp can be found down there!?!?!?!? If anyone wants to go for the group buy I am in... so glad the topic got resurrected :D Oo. Oo. :D
 
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Oo. Oo. Oo.



Sorry can't seem to auto subscribe to this thread... maybe this'll work :-laf



I forgot to ask:-



Does the new design frantz filter accomodate perfectly the typical toilet paper size or does it need an o-ring for added protection??



Will the screen keep large paper fragments out in the event of a SNAFU?

( ..... adding a precut coffee filter element might be overkill?????)



Is the oil restriction orifice(?) 1/16th going into the filter housing on the new frantz?



Sorry this probably was asked already and answered in detail but I got confused... it has been a long night reading this thread :rolleyes:
 
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96ram said:
Oo. Oo. Oo.



Sorry can't seem to auto subscribe to this thread... maybe this'll work :-laf



I forgot to ask:-



Does the new design frantz filter accomodate perfectly the typical toilet paper size or does it need an o-ring for added protection??



Will the screen keep large paper fragments out in the event of a SNAFU?

( ..... adding a precut coffee filter element might be overkill?????)



Is the oil restriction orifice(?) 1/16th going into the filter housing on the new frantz?



Sorry this probably was asked already and answered in detail but I got confused... it has been a long night reading this thread :rolleyes:



While the newer Frantz seems to better fit common TP cores, I still prefer the added core sealing provided by O-rings - just personal preference, and I see Frantz DOES provide an improved center seal/lip at the bottom of the center post as compared to my 45 year old unit.



The size of the restriction is probably optional to a small degree - anything larger than 1/8 inch might start to reduce overall oil system PSI, as well as overpower the ability of the TP cartridge to filter most efficiently. A flow slow enough to allow maximum filtration, while still allowing reasonable lube turnover thru the filter (gallons per hour) is the goal - and I would lean more to 1/16 than 1/8 inch for best overall performance.



If there is concern about random TP fragments shedding from a new TP roll, the standard Frantz bottom screen will provide NO protection - it's WAY to coarse in mesh to do anything but support the bottom of the TP cartridge.



That's why I chose to add several layers of coffee filter material at that location - yeah, probably overkill. just like the O-rings and magnet stack - but it's cheap, and MIGHT help some. At least my oil analysis reports look good, and the small added time and effort for those additions is trivial to me.



YMMV... ;) :D
 
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Once again thanks so much for all the info Gary - K7GLD your a testament to the quality of this forum :) I want my cummins to last a couple more decades :D



On page 28 DaveK98 wrote this:-



"On another post Srowly contacted fleetguard about bypass systems here is what they told him:



Thank you for contacting Fleetguard.

Steve, Cummins Engine Company neither recommends nor encourages the use of by-pass oil filters on the B engine

because improper use of the by-pass lubrication filter, it MUST meet the following requirements:

A. Oil flow restricted to 1 GPM by using a 2 mm orifice in the by-pass filter supply.

B. A check Valve in the supply line which only allows flow to the by-pass filter supply.



If you use a 1/16 inch restrictor hole this would be . 0625 inches and 2mm is . 078 inches so I think that you would satisfy their part A



Does anyone else have a check valve? What would be the purpose of this? So that junk from the by-pass filter can't drain back down into the block when you turn the engine off??



Still waiting on mine to come in... . "




Sounds like the frantz conforms to what fleetguard says but do they really mean bypass or check valve???





How about that group buy??
 
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No group buy right now, didn't see more than about a 10$ savings.



If you order from wefilterit.com the will give you a tdr discount. I ordered off ebay and it is probably going to run me about the same as the wefilterit.com with discount... .
 
I got the Amsoil filter base and two filters for under $60 from eBay... just got to plumb it up now... I'm going to buy a cooler for mine... doubt it will do much, but it might help...



I figure I'll have under $100 in mine when all said and done... the most expensive thing will be the AN hose and fittings.



steved
 
steved said:
I got the Amsoil filter base and two filters for under $60 from eBay... just got to plumb it up now... I'm going to buy a cooler for mine... doubt it will do much, but it might help...



I figure I'll have under $100 in mine when all said and done... the most expensive thing will be the AN hose and fittings.



steved



And filters
 
CFAR said:
And filters



Agreed, but for me the appeal is in the filter cartridge (to each, his own)... I can simply spin the old one off and a new one on (no thinking, no operator error, no cleaning, etc)... might cost more than TP, but the fear of the unlikely "stray" particles escaping from the filter goes away... mounting in the 3rd gen is limited too. And the comment about changing TP out every 2500 miles was not appealing since I can almost triple that number in a week's driving... the Amsoil bypass is good for a little longer than that...



As for the worry of the TP particles causing any issue, I pose this:



The oil from your bypass is put back into the oilpan whether it enters through the oil pan, the turbo "plug", or the filler cap. Therefore, any particles from the bypass filter are then pumped through the fullflow filter were, if the filter is any good, they should get caught...



steved
 
Gary,



My frantz kit came with the hose but it is probaly 25 years old, never been used.



Do you think I should get new hose or use the old but unused hose? If I buy new hose about how many feet would you think I need? Was also thinking about having some braided hoses made up but not sure where I'd get them done.....



Thanks... .
 
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DaveK98 said:
Gary,



My frantz kit came with the hose but it is probaly 25 years old, never been used.



Do you think I should get new hose or use the old but unused hose? If I buy new hose about how many feet would you think I need? Was also thinking about having some braided hoses made up but not sure where I'd get them done.....



Thanks... .



One of the later Frantz kits I bought was from an estate sale - was obviously pretty old from looks of original box. The hose inside was fine, and no problems with it - just make sure the one you have is free of surface cracks. Otherwise, if you want new hose, make sure you get stuff made for constant oil exposure - on my truck, I used maybe 5 feet of hose.



Good luck.
 
Ok, I'll look at it again but I think it was in pretty good shape, sometimes you can't tell though with rubber hoses. Thanks again!
 
Ordered the other parts I needed from wefilterit.com. I spoke with Deborah and she was very knowleable. She told me to drill out the old restriction on the outlet side. It was larger than 1/16 but smaller than the 1/8 drill bit I used to drill it out. She also recommended that I put the 1/16 restrictor on the frantz housing vs on the engine block supply.



I also looked for a place to put this filter on my 3rd gen truck. I can't do the battery hold down trick that Gary did as the batterys aren't held down like this. My brother works in a machine shop and I'm going to get him to make me a simple bracket so I can mount it on the firewall lip. I'll take pictures and post them when I get it made.



I also tried to fit a tp roll that we had under the counter onto my housing. The cardboard tube in the center is too large so I'm going to have to measure my center housing and head to walmart to see if the Scott tissues use a smaler roll.
 
I got my Amsoil filter and bracket last night... looks good... fat little filter.



The orifice in the Amsoil filter is about 1/16"... I'm going to leave well enough alone on mine...



Ordering the hose, oil cap swivel, and cooler today... ran into the same issue as you... where to mount on a 3rd gen... decided to mount everything on the passenger side like the FASS mounts to the drivers side... should be easy enough...



steved
 
Steved, so you are going to mount yours under the truck? I guess with the longer change times with the Amsoil it won't be as bad as the 2500 mile changes on the Frantz.



Hopefully my braceket idea works. There are a few plastic push clips in the place where I will put the bracket and bolts. I don't want to have to alter or drill the truck anymore than I have to. Would like to be able to remove 2 bolts, remove the feed and put the plug back in and put on the factory cap to return it to stock if necc.
 
I already have holes in the truck... the FASS mounts under the bed in front of the rear tire on the drivers side... going to do the same, just on the passenger side...



You might also want to check between the front bumper and frame... I think there is enough room, but I didn't feel like working in cramped spaces... I got 30 feet of 1/4" hose coming, should be more than enough to put it where I want...



I'm still torn about the cooler... don't really know if that is needed or would actually cool enough volume to be worth it... but, I think I will put one on anyways since it is easy enough to mount between the filter and return...



I also was thinking about drilling and tapping the frame... wouldn't take much to hold the cooler or the filter head in place, however, I know dodge states that is a no-no... but what would four #12 screws and three 1/4" bolts hurt??



steved
 
[/QUOTE] I also tried to fit a tp roll that we had under the counter onto my housing. The cardboard tube in the center is too large so I'm going to have to measure my center housing and head to walmart to see if the Scott tissues use a smaler roll. [/QUOTE]



If you notice, all tt roll centers are about the same. The only one that fits tight is the one that wefilterit has, or the Frantz tt filter, both the tube and housing. The Scotts you need to remove "JUST ENOUGH" waps of tissue, for a snug fit

If you look at my rigs profiles, I made an adapter that fits on top of the tube, between the tt roll, as a seal. It fits right at the top of the tube and roll. Plus I also use a "O" ring down lower to help seal the tube and tt roll and to keep it in line. As to its effectiveness good question. but I think with the force of the oil flow it helps to hold the adapter in place and directs the flow of oil properly.



Marv.
 
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