Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) batteries

[TrqMonster]

I was hoping someone might be able to tell what the best batteries are to use in my truck and by this I mean not brand, but things like Cold cranking amps, etc. I have an optima gel battery from a car that I used to have and was wondering if it would be big enough if I bought another to use with it . So I am simply asking what kind of power these batteries should have and if anyone recommends bigger than the manufacturer suggests. Thanks

Ivan

 

[champspa]

I got Pep boys batteries 5 yrs ago, and they're still humping it hard about 1100 amps for 77 bucks.

 

[Tom W]

Check out Sam's Club - Champion XLT. They are spiral wound construction - same as Optima - specs and warranty appear better. About $100. I bought two about 6 months ago - very pleased with them. Was in Sam's last week and they now have Optimas also.



Tom

 

[JSmith]

The Optimas will work fine. Many a member run Optimas, me too.

 

[DDunse]

I just put two Optima red tops in mine last week, there are a couple different sizes. I went with the larger of the two.

 

[CumminsPower98]

I have Optima red tops also and really like them a lot. They crank it over just great and one of the best things is that they are clean and leak free. None of that nasty mess eating away at the terminals, which also means no need to clean them periodically.

 

[J Shocik]

I've got 2 Sears RangeHandler ( Better than the Die Hard Golds) in mine as replacements and they're doing the job just fine. IMO the Optima's a much better battery. Just replace both at the same time, even if only one is a problem.

 

[JohnE]

Be very cautious on following the book for battery replacements.

Two years ago, I put in the listed premium 78DT Exide replacements and they were junk in my truck.

When I changed last year, the listed Sears premium "SUV, Truck & Van" battery was not the best choice as it too is a group 78. I got the gold which is a group 27 battery same as OE. Group 27 which means moderate CAA, but tremendous RA. A group 27 is midway between a cranking and deep cycle battery.

I run an Espar twice a day and need the RA to sustain the draw for 2 hours. -15° this morning and the Sears do a great job.



I really wanted to try the Optimas, but the RA is really poor. I did get one for the mommy van as the corrosion is a problem



My next batteries will probably be a pair of 1150 commercial or series 31. I considered an 8D, but the overzealous charging system would cook a single battery.

 

[bgilbert]

Deka

Ivan, I would go down to BC auto electric on margaret near 10th. They'll be able to tell ya what factory CCA ratings are and tell ya what the next best size up will be if you want to go up n ratings. They sell the great Deka batteries (in my mind) Got three Dodge 4WD's, three big bad Dekas. The diesels have a 1260CCA at 32F, 1160CCA at 0F. Don't know if you can run two batteries with that high of CCA. Big trucks can run 4 that size. Paid $81 each tax included. Bill

 

[Josparkz]

My two Optima red tops have been cranking away about 5 years.

It is so nice not to have a mess from battery acid.

 

[TrqMonster]

New Question

I already have one optima red top so it looks like I will just go buy another. (Not in the truck yet)



Thanks for all the input everybody.



I now have a new question. I was talking with a friend while he was looking at my new truck and he had a Yukon that he fried the alternator giving someone a jump. He also had two batteries, so he made it to where he could cut the second battery off from the first if he needed to jump somebody so that it did not cook another alternator again.

Has anyone else had this problem or done this fix? or is this even a concern with our trucks? Any info would be great.

Thanks again. Ivan

 

[J Shocik]

Ivan, in regard to your friend's Yukon, that says it all. GM's are famous for blowing through alternators. Either someone hooked the jump wrong, or the alternator was almost toast anyways. As for your CTD, how many people do you plan to jump to make this a necessary accessory? IMO I wouldn't touch a thing, and to make sure if someone needs a jump, I do ALL the connecting AND disconnecting. Your alternator should have plenty of power to handle most anything. Just make sure positive to positive and negative to negative. Make sure the jumper cables aren't touching each other after the first car is hooked up.

 

[Loren]

Ivan,



Two things:

1: The batteries in your truck should be a pair. If you have been using that first Optima, you should buy TWO new ones for the truck. Using one old battery and one new one will kill the new one.



When one battery goes bad, replace both of them and use the good one removed from the truck in your car, or something else.



2: There was a post somewhere here a while back about jumping another vehicle. Apparently you can fry the alternator (and maybe other parts) by doing it incorrectly. The best advice I took from that site was to jump the dead vehicle from your truck by leaving the key OFF. Don't start the engine nor turn on the ignition. Just jump the dead vehicle to your two good batteries. It should be enough current to start the dead one.



If I remember correctly (big "if"), one member posted that the current surges on your truck's electrical system when the cables are hooked up can fry the alternator. With the ignition off, the alternator is isolated and cannot be harmed. Don't quote me on that though; I may be remembering wrong.



Maybe some other member can straighten me out if this is wrong.



Loren