2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Blower Motor Replacement

[firefighter_2000]

So I replaced the blower motor in the 99 this week. Turned on the a/c one day and nothing. I checked for continuity at the plug behind the glove box and nothing. Checked the resistor just to make sure and it tested fine. Finally found a motor in stock at the local auto zone. Part number is PM3788, and its made by VDO (not sure if its the same VDO as the gauges or not tho). It didnt have the same plug so I had to cut the old end off and splice the plug on the new motor. Here's a brief overview.



Pic of underneath where the motor sits behind the glove box. There were three phillips - 5/16 - 8mm screws holding it in. I found a short extension, a universal joint, and the socket helped get the one in the back out easily.



#ad




Once the screws are removed and the harness unplugged it comes right out. I wont show a photo, because Im just a bit embarassed of how EXTREMELY nasty the fan was.



Next remove the tension clamp at the tip in the middle of the fan with a pair of needle nose pliers.



#ad


#ad




Had a friend help me get the fan off the old motor. I held the fan while he took a punch and drove the shaft down and out of the fan. Took 3-4 hits and it was all apart.



Here are the three pieces pulled apart. I helped my brother replace one of these on his 98 a few months back and his didn't have the bottom "shell" with the foam. Im guessing its to keep any noise from vibration or squeaking down. *note: when we bought his motor from oreilleys, it already had the fan part on it. I was unable to locate one here local now that has the fan already installed*



#ad




The box & the new motor.



#ad


#ad




The old fan (after a VERY thorough cleaning) installed on the new motor. Install is reverse of the removal.



#ad




Button everything else up just like it came out (DONT forget to plug it back in... you'll have a brief Oh $#!t moment when it doesn't come on)



Here's a shot of the switch resistor... Its to the left and slightly towards the firewall from the fan. Just two phillips head screws and the wire harness hold it in.

#ad




Another note: When you get it ALL back together and are ready to test the system, don't forget that the mode (floor, face, defrost, etc) is all controlled by vaccum. You won't have vaccum unless the truck is running. Had another Oh $#!t moment when I tried changing the mode without the truck running. I tend to forget the simplest things like that.



Hope y'all enjoyed.

Craig

 

[fest3er]

Cool! I may remember this when I take mine apart to replace the evap and heater core.

And welcome to the "Old Farts Club". Forgetting simple stuff is God's way of keeping us humble.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Bad part is, I shouldn't be forgetting stuff so easy at 28! My wife tells me I'm the youngest OLD man she knows. Ohh well, time to take my fiber and get a nap in before dinner!
Craig

 

[fest3er]

Look on the bright side. You're young enough to be a dirty old man *and* enjoy it.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

If you had a motor failure hopefully you had a chance to check the ballast resistor for cracks. When the motor armature hangs up the current draw will start to roast the resistor.

 

[firefighter_2000]

I got lucky.

I got pretty lucky. I had been driving the truck and it was working. I make it a habit to turn the switch to the OFF position before I shut the truck off. When I got back in, I switched it on, and then over to high, and got nothing. I turned it all off and as soon as I got to the house, I tore everything apart. The resistor looked fine. Still had continuity all the way through it.

Thanks

Craig