Deere 1023E Vs. Kubota BX1880

[Michaelsloft]

Sure, you can do it yourself. It's no different than any other clutch change. Only, the parts are much heavier and cumbersome to handle. I've just done a lot of them over the years. I can't take credit for today on my own. My buddy Mark helped me out and he is 100 times the mechanic that I am. It pays to have skilled friends.

It sure is great to have good friends with mechanical skills!
Thanks for the encouragement and yes, I was thinking about the weight and cumbersome parts in the Dodge. Replaced a clutch in a 1971 Datsun pick up on Highschool and in a Econoline Van in college so I can imagine it will just be the weight of parts etc as mentioned.
Been doing my own repairs and maintenance only having a couple of lift pumps , a couple of sensors, alternator, evacuate and fill the A/C system with the help of a skilled friend with the equipment, a VP44 replacement last year and normal maintenance since new. One set of front brake pads, oh and a recent blend door coupler!
When the time comes for a clutch I'm going to give it a try and may need some input and support from TDR members along the way.

Many safe miles with your new clutch,

Michael

 

[jgillott]

It sure is great to have good friends with mechanical skills!
Thanks for the encouragement and yes, I was thinking about the weight and cumbersome parts in the Dodge. Replaced a clutch in a 1971 Datsun pick up on Highschool and in a Econoline Van in college so I can imagine it will just be the weight of parts etc as mentioned.
Been doing my own repairs and maintenance only having a couple of lift pumps , a couple of sensors, alternator, evacuate and fill the A/C system with the help of a skilled friend with the equipment, a VP44 replacement last year and normal maintenance since new. One set of front brake pads, oh and a recent blend door coupler!
When the time comes for a clutch I'm going to give it a try and may need some input and support from TDR members along the way.

Many safe miles with your new clutch,

Michael

Thank you.

Biggest tip I can give you on your '99 is to have a porta power and spread the frame rails. It makes getting that crossmember in and out so much easier on the 2nd gen trucks.

 

[Michaelsloft]

Thank you.

Biggest tip I can give you on your '99 is to have a porta power and spread the frame rails. It makes getting that crossmember in and out so much easier on the 2nd gen trucks.

Thanks for the tip!
Would not have thought about using a Porta Power until well into the job......

 

[TFucili]

Thank you.

Biggest tip I can give you on your '99 is to have a porta power and spread the frame rails. It makes getting that crossmember in and out so much easier on the 2nd gen trucks.

Good Advice=Priceless

 

[NIsaacs]

Very Impressive! Fast work and even with taking the time to change fluids and seals!

Enjoy the new clutch and again, very impressive indeed.

I agree, it took me two days! jg, do you have a lift and transmission jack? Did you take the transmission and t-case out as a unit? I did, all 500# with a floor jack, not doing that again. Napa has a transmission cradle adapter that will fit my floor jack that I didn't know about at the time. Before I do another one I will have one. I also regret not separating the boxes and changing both input and output seals. A few years later I had to, transmission oil getting in the t-case.

Michael, at 259k I recommend you change your clutch. Mine was working fine when I changed it (210k) just getting hard to push the peddle. It was worn out, everything was. I was lucky, there was no damage at all. Our trucks have a poor pilot bearing and can damage the input shaft, mine was fine but the bearing was dry. However, as I approach 200k I am gonna get worried, lol.

 

[jgillott]

Yes to both. Transmission jack, lift, and air tools really speed up the process. I don't separate the transfer case and transmission. Everything down at once.

 

[TFucili]

When the needle bearing pilot failed in one of my Fords, which fouled the splines and kept the clutch from releasing, I went to my buddy's machine shop, and he had a whole assortment of pilot bushings. I came up with an oilite bushing with the correct ID and OD. No more needle bearing to fail.

 

[jgillott]

The only positive thing about the G56 dual mass setup is that the flywheel itself fails long before things like pilot bearings or other parts have a chance to.

 

[NIsaacs]

When the needle bearing pilot failed in one of my Fords, which fouled the splines and kept the clutch from releasing, I went to my buddy's machine shop, and he had a whole assortment of pilot bushings. I came up with an oilite bushing with the correct ID and OD. No more needle bearing to fail.

Yes, they last forever. My '91 has one, I don't worry about it at all. I would use it in my '01 if it would fit, but the OD is too small.

 

[Michaelsloft]

I agree, it took me two days! jg, do you have a lift and transmission jack? Did you take the transmission and t-case out as a unit? I did, all 500# with a floor jack, not doing that again. Napa has a transmission cradle adapter that will fit my floor jack that I didn't know about at the time. Before I do another one I will have one. I also regret not separating the boxes and changing both input and output seals. A few years later I had to, transmission oil getting in the t-case.

Michael, at 259k I recommend you change your clutch. Mine was working fine when I changed it (210k) just getting hard to push the peddle. It was worn out, everything was. I was lucky, there was no damage at all. Our trucks have a poor pilot bearing and can damage the input shaft, mine was fine but the bearing was dry. However, as I approach 200k I am gonna get worried, lol.

Nick, sounds like good advise. The clutch currently feels good with normal/similar to new pedal pressure required and no difference in sound, but I would rather replace the clutch before anything fails.
This would be a minimum of two days job for me to undertake LOL, and maybe three with doing seals and bushings in transfer case and transmission, mounts etc!
Going to start looking into parts required and maybe tackle the project next Spring/Summer.
Thanks for the suggestions from your experience.

Michael

 

[NIsaacs]

Any updates? Is that BX1880 a tier 4 or 5? Does it have DPF and DEF?

I am looking at a '15 Kubota L4701 and MX5800, they are both tier 4 but I don't know what that means for sure. It does say common rail/direct injection. I had a small Bobcat with a indirect injection Kubota engine I didn't like much. I prefer John Deere/Yanmar but too much money.

 

[JR]

I do believe most if not all of Kubota engines require a DPF but no SCR (DEF) to meet tier 4. Alot of small engines are getting it (tier 4) done without a DPF. Bobcat is now using Doosan as an engine supplier and is able to achieve tier 4 with a DOC only - no dpf or scr. Small engines have an advantage in the emissions dept, it's not cut and dry like it is in the larger engines.

 

[jgillott]

No real updates on my purchase quite yet. Life's been in the way a little.....lol

 

[BIGNASTY]

The biggest reason I'm looking for this style of tractor is that my father who is nearing 80 really enjoys cutting the grass every week and even though he will not admit it, he could use something with power steering, step through foot well, and I would feel a lot better with him on something with a ROPS and seatbelt.

GOOD FOR HIM!!!!!
And you for thinking of him & his safety, I find NOTHING beats a day of cutting grass OR brush hogging some undergrowth from around the wooded areas of the property. Except working on an OLD tractor, theres plenty of them out there that need a little TLC

 

[Wayne M.]

I do believe most if not all of Kubota engines require a DPF but no SCR (DEF) to meet tier 4. Alot of small engines are getting it (tier 4) done without a DPF. Bobcat is now using Doosan as an engine supplier and is able to achieve tier 4 with a DOC only - no dpf or scr. Small engines have an advantage in the emissions dept, it's not cut and dry like it is in the larger engines.

JR, as you probably know, Doosan now owns Bobcat and all Ingersoll Rand now.

 

[jgillott]

Does anyone know if the Kubota D902 engine requires after treatment to meet Tier 4?

 

[JR]

JR, as you probably know, Doosan now owns Bobcat and all Ingersoll Rand now.

I knew about IR but not Bobcat. I wonder if the engine deal broke the ice?

 

[BIGNASTY]

Does anyone know if the Kubota D902 engine requires after treatment to meet Tier 4?

Dont know about the exact time frame, but when we first moved to Indiana almost 2 years ago. I was looking at tractors Humphry's Equip sales is a LARGE Kubota dealer, I asked him about a new tractor with diesel thinking that the afterburner exhaust might be Highway only? WRONG!! We were told that when the afterburner exhaust was mandated for diesel it was ALL DIESELS

 

[jgillott]

Dont know about the exact time frame, but when we first moved to Indiana almost 2 years ago. I was looking at tractors Humphry's Equip sales is a LARGE Kubota dealer, I asked him about a new tractor with diesel thinking that the afterburner exhaust might be Highway only? WRONG!! We were told that when the afterburner exhaust was mandated for diesel it was ALL DIESELS

That wouldn't surprise me. The reason I'm asking is my local Kubota dealer has a leftover 2018 BX2370 4x4 with a 60" deck listed at an attractive price. The engine in that one is the d902. Not exactly sure what emissions configuration that has in the subcompact class.

 

[BIGNASTY]

We looked at John Deere lawn/Garden diesel power tractors for the wife to use around the house and attach a few garden tools to. It was nice enough unit until I noticed the exhaust B.S. no thanks and went to Kenners In town and bought her a Husqvarna 52" Zero turn. I use 1 of my tractors (Now retired to light duty use) to do what is needed in her garden, Hence the other post I have about water contamination in the gearbox lube of the King Kutter Tiller.

Besides a comparable Kubota of my GO TO Tractor Massy Ferguson 135 was $28,000 I'm sure its probably worth it for some full time farmer that needs it but I can't work on the new electronic B.S. and am to old to learn rocket seince the old stuff just makes sense to me with all the mechanical linkages, carburetors, choke cables and the NEW ADVANCED ELECTRONIC ignition system I installed to update to pointless distributor.