Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Vibration

[SMcFarland]

A while ago I thought I felt a odd vibration in my 2001 2500 at idle. Slowly the vibration has started to appear more and more at highway speeds. Now it feels like a wheel bearing or tire out of balance. It is a low frequency vibration that I can feel in the shifter and floor boards. It comes and goes at different speeds and seems more noticable on light acceleration. It goes away at all speeds if I push in the clutch. Every part of the drive train that moves ie: wheel bearings/tires/ujoints/hangar bearing/ ball joints/ complete front end from pitman arm to spindles / rotors / calipers/ camshaft position sensor / has been replaced previously. The clutch is original with 220,000 kms on it. It still seems to hold fine and is quiet as always. Since the vibration goes away with the clutch pushed in am I correct in assuming its not the drivetrain, but motor/clutch source? Does the harmonic balancer go out of balance if the rubber deteriorates on it? Could the clutch cause this, even at idle speeds? Injectors/ VP44? I have no engine related codes. Help! After dropping over $7,000 in repairs in the last 2 years I never seem to get more than 2 months with out a problem now. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

[Yooper1]

I had something just like that and it ended up being a lose harmonic balancer. See if that could be it. it worked for me.

 

[Graphic man]

I had something just like that and it ended up being a lose harmonic balancer. See if that could be it. it worked for me.

i agree i had the same issue.



Scott

 

[SMcFarland]

Thanks guys, I will start by checking the balancer is tight. I just drove the truck again and it is getting worse. That fits the patern of a part loosening. Sean.

 

[Mundgyver]

The balancer can be tight, but is the damper material cracked or comming apart. That will cause a vibration.

 

[Cummins724]

Same thing here... . Fluid damper took care of it. Check it as mentioned & if you need a damper let me know. I have one off a 03 that had 10k on it, but it may be different. I'm sure someone will know.

 

[SMcFarland]

Next Steps

Well, of course we are getting a snow storm now that I need to get under the truck. I checked the 4 bolts, they were tight with no movement. The rubber did look cracked on the damper. Is there a way to tell if the rings have shifted? Sean.

 

[Graphic man]

Well, of course we are getting a snow storm now that I need to get under the truck. I checked the 4 bolts, they were tight with no movement. The rubber did look cracked on the damper. Is there a way to tell if the rings have shifted? Sean.

i believe there is nothing on the the H/B to tell you if it has spun on it self... . the new ones do have arrows on them the tell if it has.



if i were you put the new fluid damper on it... they seem to be a lot better



Scott

 

[SMcFarland]

Hi Scott, I priced a fluid damper here in Canada and they are close to $900 with taxes. I agree they are top shelf stuff, I am only concerned about it being the damper before the cash outlay. The dealer wants $420 for the factory part (hub without pulley) so the extra money spent is worth it if it lasts longer. I guess there is no way to test it without changing out the balancer. I was just out picking up my sled and while towing had the same thing with the vibration going away with the clutch pushed in. She is smooth as a car with the clutch in. Am I correct in assuming the vibration is the engine/ clutch area if it stops with the clutch in? Thanks again for the help. Sean.

 

[Graphic man]

Hey Sean,



does not sound like the problem then, if it were the balancer then it would do it all the time... you would feel it as soon as you start it up



where are you located?



deal with Cummins they are a lot less $$$..... i got one about 6 months ago for $380. 00 complete unit!





Scott

 

[Cummins724]

Hey Sean,



does not sound like the problem then, if it were the balancer then it would do it all the time... you would feel it as soon as you start it up



where are you located?



deal with Cummins they are a lot less $$$..... i got one about 6 months ago for $380. 00 complete unit!





Scott

I paid $380 for my fluidamper... . got it from Source Auto. You may have a bad pilot bushing or clutch problem, but usually if it is the clutch/pilot..... it gets worse with a load.

 

[SMcFarland]

I have dealt with the local Cummins truck shop for the cam sensor replacement as the local Chrysler dealer is a joke here in Barrie Ontario for any work above an oilchange. I will check out Cummins for the balancer too. The Sourse Auto price is great, even with duty and the shipping it is close to the OEM part price wise. I do feel a slight vibration at idle but it gets much worse when driving. Today at 30mph it was vibrating like at highway speeds, again push in the clutch and it totally smooths out. Maybe the pilot bushing is gone. It is worse under load, say light accelleration. When the clutch is pushed in and the engine rpms keep the same the truck totally smooths out. If it was the balancer would it not vibrate the same with the clutch in or out if the rpms were constant?

 

[AKAMAC]

Do you have the 5 or 6 speed?

Does it vibrate in neutral at speed?

I'm thinking input shaft bearing.

 

[Cummins724]

Do you have the 5 or 6 speed?

Does it vibrate in neutral at speed?

I'm thinking input shaft bearing.

That is a good point... . input shaft bearing.

 

[Graphic man]

I have dealt with the local Cummins truck shop for the cam sensor replacement as the local Chrysler dealer is a joke here in Barrie Ontario for any work above an oilchange. I will check out Cummins for the balancer too. The Sourse Auto price is great, even with duty and the shipping it is close to the OEM part price wise. I do feel a slight vibration at idle but it gets much worse when driving. Today at 30mph it was vibrating like at highway speeds, again push in the clutch and it totally smooths out. Maybe the pilot bushing is gone. It is worse under load, say light accelleration. When the clutch is pushed in and the engine rpms keep the same the truck totally smooths out. If it was the balancer would it not vibrate the same with the clutch in or out if the rpms were constant?

Sean,



i am having a meet and greet here at my shop in Mississauga (Dixie & 401) on the 27 of this month, we have guys from all over coming, about 12-14 trucks..... your more then welcome to come down and join in on the fun!!



Scott

 

[Graphic man]

here is the link to it.



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173544

 

[SMcFarland]

Thanks for the offer Scott, unfortunatly for me the words "fun" and "my truck" right now would involve gasoline and a match. I do owe the Cummins gods an apology by starting my thread with "engine vibration". The engine is the best part of it and I should have known it was not the issue. The vibration goes away at speed with the truck in neutral coasting too, regardless of wether I keep the rpms up in neutral or not. I think Akamac might have the answer as this issue is "vibration at load". Since it is slightly vibrating at idle too, the input shaft bearing seems logical. My mechanic thinks some of my newly rebuilt drivetrain might be the culprit also as I had a different shop do the work last year before I found my current guy to outsourse too. I am not into laying in the snow anymore to mess with it going thru the drivetrain. If the transmission does have to come out for a input shaft bearing should I not have it overhauled as I travel regularly in the bush camping and a breakdown in the middle of knowhere is to be avoided. I have a 5 speed, is there a mod for the 5th gear? I thought I read of an issue with these trannys in 5th. Mine has worked great until this. Also, if the trannys out I might as well do the clutch too. At 220,000 kms the stocker owes me nothing. I need longeveity and street manners to hold the 320hp/ 675ftlbs. I do not tow heavy loads (5000lbs max) and do not beat on the truck on the street. My 5. 0 is for performance thrashing. Any recomendations on a clutch? I do not want to get into relocating the starter for a 13 inch flywheel. Also, who would you suggest in the Barrie / Toronto area who knows these trannys? So much for saving for a ATV! Thanks again to all the great people who suggested ideas. TDR memberships should be included by DC when you buy the truck! As a side note my buddies Duramax has similar kms as my Cummins and just cost him $9000. at a GM dealer for new head gaskets. Makes me think GM must really stand for "gasket malfunction" Sean

 

[Cummins724]

I talked to the transmission guy for 2 hours about my transmission when He tore it apart & he said that 99 up dodges don't have this problem with 5th gear nut. He showed me the shaft from my 99 & compared it to a 97 shaft & they are different. The 99 up shaft has a groove cut in it [like a keyway] & when the nut is installed... . you just give the nut a smash at the bottom with a chisel & it locks into the groove. I had him do the upgraded nut anyways, loctite it & then punch lock the nut too. He had a rebuilt nv4500 sitting on his shelf for $1500 & told me no core needed. It already had the upgraded nut. He does good work & I'd recommend him to anyone..... He's been in business 30years for rears/trannys in Pittsburgh, PA... . If anyone is interested... . PM me & I'll hook you up with him.

 

[Graphic man]

OK Sean... well if you change your mind you know where we are.



hope you get her all fixed up!!!



WOW 9g's for head gaskets... ... thats all they did ?





Scott

 

[AKAMAC]

With that kind of mileage on the stock disk I would pull the inspection plate and see if there are any spare parts laying around. Might look like pieces of a heavy spring.

Mike