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Exploring garage/shop options - pole barn or not for attached building?

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Robert, Nice shop!!!!



What is the height to your ceiling ?? I love the thought of having a lift, but I only have 12'feet from floor to ceiling... ... . would that be enough?? What brand of lift do you have??



Randall



It is a bend pac 9k cap.

I just measured and the lift is 12' 0 1/2" tall that is the top of the post/safety shutoff rail. my garage is 14' 4'' tall.

you might just squeak it in there!
 
Thanks for the info,..... I'll have to get more exact measurements !!!



The Powermig 300 is sweet !!!! I'm jealous !!! I looked at one a few months ago, that was ordered in for another guy..... he also got the "Python" push/pull... ... very nice. I have a Victor Journeyman gas set-up, and a Hyperttherm Powermax 1000 plasma cutter, ... ... but I want to get the Lincoln 255C this summer, if I don't spend to much on goodies for the 06'.

Never enough $$$$$$$$$$$$.
 
32x40x11'6"shop; 18"x8" footing; 3'10"x8" frostwall x 6" floor" 2x6 stick built, 4/12 2' on center, insulated, wired and finished for almost $15,000, no labor. :-laf
 
Thanks for the info,..... I'll have to get more exact measurements !!!



The Powermig 300 is sweet !!!! I'm jealous !!! I looked at one a few months ago, that was ordered in for another guy..... he also got the "Python" push/pull... ... very nice. I have a Victor Journeyman gas set-up, and a Hyperttherm Powermax 1000 plasma cutter, ... ... but I want to get the Lincoln 255C this summer, if I don't spend to much on goodies for the 06'.

Never enough $$$$$$$$$$$$.



I hear ya. I got a hobart 400 plasma and I wish I would have not been so cheap and got a larger unit, it will only cut 3/8 max.

then when you buy stuff you need a bigger place to put it, I feel like my garage is too small "just 3200 sf". Its full of stuff, I guess it time to clean!! or build a second garage in the back yard!:-laf my wife would just love that see would never see me again. ever!



-robert
 
Robert,



You can never have enough garage/shop space. Mine is 36'x48', ... nice sized, but bigger would've been better. I had to draw the line somewhere with $$$$, and that was a good compromise for me. And I'm fortunate my wife likes it also !!!

I kinda wish I didn't get my Victor oxy-acetylene outfit, just for the fact that the plasma does it all, and you have the cost of renting bottles with gas. And who gas welds anymore with all the nice MIG/TIG outfits now !!!! I guess if I ever need to blow thru something alot thicker, I can!!!
 
Robert,



You can never have enough garage/shop space. Mine is 36'x48', ... nice sized, but bigger would've been better. I had to draw the line somewhere with $$$$, and that was a good compromise for me. And I'm fortunate my wife likes it also !!!

I kinda wish I didn't get my Victor oxy-acetylene outfit, just for the fact that the plasma does it all, and you have the cost of renting bottles with gas. And who gas welds anymore with all the nice MIG/TIG outfits now !!!! I guess if I ever need to blow thru something alot thicker, I can!!!







I use my oxy/acet torch for loosing bolts and bending stuff. so its useful, but I do use my plasma more.



-robert
 
rhoppe, nice looking shop. The concrete around the outside is a nice idea, how do you like it so far for the winter. I have heard the Infared heaters can get expensive to operate, although I have never seen the bills, so I don't know the details. My father has a 40x50 with raised truses, I belive they are called. It was built about 20-25 yrs ago and he now wishes it was larger as this is also used for farm repairs and he cannot get his 30ft planter into the shop.
 
rhoppe, nice looking shop. The concrete around the outside is a nice idea, how do you like it so far for the winter. I have heard the Infared heaters can get expensive to operate, although I have never seen the bills, so I don't know the details. My father has a 40x50 with raised truses, I belive they are called. It was built about 20-25 yrs ago and he now wishes it was larger as this is also used for farm repairs and he cannot get his 30ft planter into the shop.



tgordon,



I really like the concrete all the way around the building, in the winter,we just make a couple passes around with the snow blower. In the summer when it rains, water comes of roof and splashes on it , so no erosion or dirt splashing up on building. Mowing is simple with no trimming. I did it all the way around our house also. Easy to get around, for mowing and cleaning windows, etc. Oo. Oo.

Yeah, I haven't seen or heard of any bills for infrared heating, so I am curious also.



Randall
 
They wanted another $17,000 to finish the inside all in steel, with steel ceiling and insulated sidewalls... ceiling would be insulated also... . infra-red tube heater...



Ouch! That's pretty much what it cost to erect the dang building!



OK - now I know what kind of heat you're talking about. I'm not sure how efficient those things are and IMHO, they also seem like a bit of a fire hazard.



Thanks,



Matt
 
I had the builder finish my ceiling in steel for about $2,100 (1600 sqft) and I did the walls myself it was pretty easy for about another $1,300 in materials.



I have crushed limestone around the building so I don't have to mow up to it. It also stops erosion at the drip line; I have no gutter to clean on my too tall for me to go up there roof. It would be nice to be able to run a blower right next to the building but it seems like most of the time its sloppy when it slides off the roof and frozen solid before I would get to it anyway.



I will also sign up for:



Quote:

Originally Posted by jtisdale

32x40x11'6"shop; 18"x8" footing; 3'10"x8" frostwall x 6" floor" 2x6 stick built, 4/12 2' on center, insulated, wired and finished for almost $15,000, no labor.



I have $2,800 in insulation, $11,500 in steel and materials for just the shell, and at least $2,000 in electrical materials and lights, etc. etc. . I would say that was a well spent $15k!



Scott
 
Matt, I don't know if anyone else mentioned it but when you plumb your bathroom also plumb/wire for a washer and dryer. You can pick up used appliances really cheap and it's great to throw in coveralls, etc. rather than hauling them in to the home laundry room.
 
So I've been daydreaming about my "dream" shop lately. I got to thinking about the floor, and was wondering what something like this costs.

I think I'd like 60'x60' steel reinforced poured 10" deep. That's roughly 335 cubic yards of concrete. I saw online $75/cubic yard used as a raw material estimator for the concrete, which works out to $25125.

Is that a good number? What did you guys pay? Assuming I build and install the rebar, what's the cost of having the concrete leveled (screed) professionally?

Ryan
 
10" floor? What you putting in that shop?



The older I get, the more tired and frustrated I get with things that are built "correctly", and the more I "overbuild" things.



I figure, 4" slabs are "normal", 6" is heavy-duty, 8" is overkill, so 10" should be "good enough for me". :) If the cost is astronomical for 10", I *might* be talked down to 8".



Ryan
 
Concrete is closet to $100 a yard here now, but it varies some. But yeah I have to say too that 10" is way overkill. There's dirt underneath it, it can't go down. Buy if you have the $$ and want it done that way that's what should be done.

Corey
 
Ryan:



I also have your issue and my life is kinda like the Cummins slogan: "Run Hard. Dream Big. " :)



The good news is that the tax man has no clue how thick your concrete is and you can't be taxed extra on a thick slab opposed to a thin one.



I haven't made any progress on the garage/shop project as my house is up for sale and I don't feel right asking for bids on stuff when I don't have the money to put up just yet.



However, my wife and I visted a friend of a friend's house this Saturday and he had a 30x60 detached pole-barn. 1/2 of it was finished off as a shop with insulated walls/ceilings and heat and the other 1/2 was storage. I must say... 30x60 might be just about perfect for what I want/need - the wife really liked it too. :cool:



Matt
 
A 10" slab can still have problems. I would drop to 6" high strength concrete and put the extra money into the site preparation to make sure the slab is on soil that is so compacted it can't settle. I would also install PEX heating pipe in case you ever want to go that route.
 
A 10" slab can still have problems. I would drop to 6" high strength concrete and put the extra money into the site preparation to make sure the slab is on soil that is so compacted it can't settle. I would also install PEX heating pipe in case you ever want to go that route.

This guys got it, site prep, site prep, site prep, you can also do stuff like around the edge near doors or high pressure points dig a 3 or 4" trench so when the concrete is poured it creates a concrete beam at that point.

Lots of steel properly prepped and tied and site preperation are the two most critical things but concrete will almost always crack.

Placing high pressure foam under the concrete will help with keeping the concrete warm when heating in the winter time as well. All our pads are poured with 2 to 4" of foam, we use rebar and wire mesh or rebar and fiber additive, Pex radiant heat tubes and all survive quite nicely.
 
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