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Front axle flange bolts.

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Hey guys, I did a big dummy thing today and need some help. I have 3rd gen axles under my truck and I got my front driveshaft back from the driveline shop (had to have it shortened a few inches) and went to install it, and those damn torx head bolts that bolt into the flange on the axle gave me a headache. I went and bought a long T40 torx bit so I could get past the knuckle, and 2 went in fine, but when I got to the last 2, I had a problem. One I almost got tight, within 1/16" and all of a sudden the damn head stripped out, all the teeth, snap, gone! So, I couldnt get it back out to take the shaft off so i could figure out what to do. Since the 3rd gens dont have a CAD, that d-shaft is going to be spinning all the time. So, I proceded to put in the last bolt, got about 1/8" of tight, and snap, same damn thing! #@$%! Now, how the heck do you get those things out!!! I am guessing I am going to have to revert to the torch and cut the heads off. Of course they are ressesed into the casting, and the flanges have splines on the back side, so a sawzall isnt going to help. I guess I could try welding a nut to the head, just might be a little tricky.



Talk about a pain in the arse! I tried finding different HD bolts, before I even started, with the right thread pitch, but of course none could be had at the local hardware shops :( Why does nothing ever go as planned!



Also, what kind of antislip does the 3rd gen rear axle have? Mine seems REALLY stiff, and doesnt seem to like to slip at all. When I take corners the rear tends to bind, do they use antislip modifier like the D80 did?
 
I have had luck with a t-35 1/4 in drive. I had one strip out on me. I removed one of the other bolts to get close to size with a drill bit. Drilled out the head as much as possible and used a chisel to pop the head off the bolt and used a vise grip to turn out the rest of the bolt. The dealer should be able to get you new bolts in a couple of days.
 
How's it going mat? Nice to see you finally got them under your truck.



I'd try welding a nut to the head if you can. Try finding a nut w/ just a little smaller opening than the head of the torx bolt, and try to weld on the inside of the nut to the torx. That way it will protect you from welding to the flange.



The limited slip doesn't use any modifier fluid. It is an all gear lsd. I hate mine and it never seems to engage when it should. Not sure what to say about yours, seems just opposite of the way mine works.
 
Got them out. Used a 6mm hex socket and pounded it into the stipped torx hole. Then, instead of installing the same junk (even though I bought a set from Dodge) I just installed regular Flange bolts (the ones that look like they have a washer welded to them) Think those are fine?
 
I think they'll be fine. I don't know why Dodge went with those little Torx screws anyway. :rolleyes:

Ryan

I think it's to make the driveshaft harder to steal by the guys who couldn't find the grease fitting and figure they need a replacement from another truck. :rolleyes:
 
Anybody have the thread/pitch info on these front driveshaft bolts? I'd like to pick up a few spares before I pull the shaft... Thanks
 
I cant remember now... I'll have to look. I got a set of shouldered Gr8 bolts for it instead of those stupid Torx headed factories. Dumb design to put a Torx head keyed bolt where mud and crap can get into the cap and become like cement in there. Plus, trying to get them tight was a pain. I wana say they where a #10 with 1. 15 pitch metric, but I could be wrong. Call the dealer if you need the info quick, they told me what it was over the phone.
 
The Mopar (6506382AA) bolts are only $1. 20 each. I always have had 4 in my box because if you don't buy the long torx you are going to strip them out. I purchased the long Snap-On T40 with the first truck, and never needed the new bolts. If you have tried to get quality replacement metric bolts for special applications you are generally going to pay more than that.
 
I wana say they where a #10 with 1. 15 pitch metric, but I could be wrong.



Doesn't sound right. Is it M10, or #10? #10 is a good 'ol English size. so #10x1. 15mm is a nonsensical specification.



If it's M10, the most common pitch would be 1. 5mm (1. 5mm). There's no such thing as an 1. 15mm pitch, that I'm aware of. But there is a 1. 25mm pitch in M10.



If it's #10, the most common TPI would be 24tpi (course) or 32tpi (fine).



If it were me, I'd probably replace the factory torx with some socket-head cap screws (commonly called allen heads). Stainless. Similar head size to the original Torx (so you retain the design pressure on the head



#10-24x1. 5" 18-8 stainless socket head capscrews run ~$0. 23 each (minimum quantity 50) at McMaster-Carr.



M10x1. 5x40mm 18-8 stainless socket head capscrews run ~$1. 00 each (minimum quantity 10) at McMaster-Carr.



I guessed on the lengths. Longer lengths are more expensive.



Usually when purchasing screws for a specific application I buy quantities of 10 or more because it's WAY cheaper that way (it's borderline price gouging what places like Sears and Lowes charge for some of their screws), and over time you build up a nice collection of standard screws.



I mean, let's face it: with a handful of screw sizes you can cover 90% of the applications out there. M10x1. 5, 1/4-20, 3/8-16, #10-24, #8-32.



Can you tell I have an unhealthy interest in screws? :-laf



Ryan
 
Hey, nothing wrong with McMaster-Carr, I can spend hours browsing their catalog. (too many projects, too little time... ) Good thing they don't have a store down the street--I'd be broke!:D

#10 sounds pretty small; M10 sounds a bit better. I'll take a stab at the pitch...

If I'd been thinking, I would have ordered a few bolts to replace those crazy external torx bolts on the G56 filter kit from Geno's that I just installed this afternoon...
 
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