2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Rotor Disk Replacement/Turning?

[EGILLILAND]

OK in short. Noticed the grinding sound too late. I've got one pad worn through which has severely grooved a rotor.



No biggee. Just pull the rotor and have it turned or replaced. Right? sort of.



Do I really have to beat the wheel studs out of the hub to get the rotor loose? Wow! Seems scarey... is it?



Seems like if I have to go to that much trouble to replace the rotor I may as well go for the full hub/bearing replacement as well (from http://www.quad4x4.com/DodgeParts.htm)... .



In short... before I dive in and tear my truck down for weeks on end to "beat" the rotors free from the hubs... . anyone have some encouraging tips/techniques ?



How would a normal humanoid turn these rotors? I've always been able to take the disc down to the local NAPA (or whoever) and have them turn it. Not gonna happen if I show up w/a 60lb rotor stuck to the middle of the disk... is it?



Thanks in advance. Eric

 

[AMink]

Just squirt 'em full of penetrating oil & let them sit for a while. Put the lug nuts on so they are ALMOST all the way on, but still covering the threads. Use a BFH (preferably a soft one, like brass) and start whacking! Be careful when the axles pulls away from the tube that you don't get the axle seals buggered up. Like me . Still leaking. If you've had them turned before, you may just want to put on new rotors. NAPA has them and they don't cost too much.

 

[EGILLILAND]

Cool thanks for the tip. Been searching the other threads and it sounds like other guys have made the tame technique work.



Question on replacing the rotors... . if you press out the studs to get the rotors off... . do you have to replace the studs w/new ones? I would suppose most shop manuals would recommend this but mine doesn't mention one way or the other.

 

[AMink]

I didn't, but it probably wouldn't hurt. Take on in when you get the new rotors and make sure it matches. You have to press or pound them back in, too. :{

 

[Jschafer]

Eric

If you are going to turn the rotor and you can get the wheel bearing-hub off of the truck (this can be more work than the studs) you can take the whole thing to napa and turn the rotor with the bearing still attached. I always do this, if I have to turn a rotor. When I change a rotor I prefer to use a press on the studs. soke the studs for a day first they are tight

Joe

 

[EGILLILAND]

Thanks for weighing in fellas. Here's the latest.



Found some stock replacment rotors at a nearby NAPA and went for them.



Key points I learned from other posts.



1. The spindle nut is on really :--) tight! 175# plus a little rust... WOW. Must have an impact wrench (air or electric) to even budge this thing. A couple of broken 1/2" craftsman short extensions let me know that basic human power wasn't going to do the trick.



2. Using a friend and your power steering is key to loosening the knuckle from the spindle. Removing each of the four knuckle bolts 3/4 of the way out, then "pinching" a 9/16 socket+appropriate combo of extentions against the frame while turning the steering wheel was perfect for pushing the knuckle free. Also... while applying this method... I safety wired the axle u joint to the axle tube to prevent the axle from pulling out with the hub. It didn't budge and I avoided doing any damage to internal seals/hub bearings on the axle.

2a. While applying pressure w/the power steering, gently pursuade the hub w/a brass mallet... seemed to help a lot w/the unsymetric load the "power steering pinch" method applies.



3. Removing the wheel studs was no big deal. Spread out the hub/rotor on the grass on top of two 2x4's. Started a lug nut on each stud to protect the threads. Then used the aforementioned brass mallet to knock out the studs. This took less than 5 minutes to do. Wasn't nearly the pain I thought it would be.



Here's a pic of the one complete side w/the safety wire still in place. This whole event took about parts + 3 hours for one side. Hopefully the other side will go quicker tomorrow.

 

[Bseg]

I knocked my studs out on one rotor but had trouble getting them out of the second rotor. The machine shop I went to pressed them out for me and put them back in after he turned the rotors. He charged me about $5 per rotor.

 

[SMorneau]

Find someone with a press.

Consider turning them on the truck because off might not work.

New studs will add quite a bit to the cost and it may be worth buying a whole assemby.

Check your wheel joints ( or axle flange or axle -u joints or whatever you want to call them because you it will never be easier to do them.

The axle seals aren't that bad if you are careful.



Good idea wiring the axle in the tube.



Good Luck,

Scott

 

[Kalaehina]

I just "had" to learn how to get the rotor off of my passenger side, seems I had an odd clunk start last Thursday, everytime I made a right turn, and my brakes were pulling me to the left everytime I applied them. Took off the passenger side front wheel and my rotor just wiggled on there, I found that the axle castle nut didn't have a cotter key, and the nut looked like it had worked it's way off a little. Last year I had all the ball joints and axle U joints replaced, it seems the mechanic may have stripped the threads when he replaced the nut, so it never really was "tight" to begin with, and now 10 months later this happens. So I had to take the rotor off and my axle had to come out also,I'm not that thrilled about seeing what else I or the mess up may have damaged. At the very least, the shop is willing to fix the problem. Just sucks to have the beast down for days on end, for who knows how long!

 

[EGILLILAND]

Scott. . thanks for jumpin' in. I basically plowed through this whole project w/swapping parts. Interesting piece of the puzzle: I went to the trouble of pulling the rotors off, then tried to "mike" them. I found the "thickness" word under the rust w/a bead blaster. Problem was the numbers were so rusted I didn't have a hope of reading them. With 90K on the first set of rotors I went ahead and replaced them. I may have them turned and store them away for a rainy day (assuming my NAPA guys can find a reference other than what is supposed to be stamped on the back of the rotor).