Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) hard starting after sitting overnight

[cluckmaster]

the starting problem started with occasional hard starting anytime, even hot. would have to crank excessivly to get started. replace fuel filter. still same problem. checked several place on the internet and decided that the lift pump was failing. replaced lift pump. had a harder time bleeding system than normal. had to crack injectors to bleed and get started. once running, ran good hot and started good hot. after sitting overnight, engine started and ran for about 10 to 15 sec. and shut off. had to prime and bleed again to get running. repalce line between lift pump and fuel line on frame and rubber line between the metal pump return line and the metal line on the frame rail. prime and bleed unit, drove around block, good power. let sit over night and started the next morning. ran for around 10 to 15 sec and shut off. had to prime and bleed injectors again to get started. i then tried dropping the fuel line and return line into a fuel can directly below th engine with the same results. i then installed a remote tank above the engine. with the tank above the engine, it primes easily. did not have to bleed the injectors to start and started good the next mornig ans stayed running. please note that the engine has always starte easily but then shut off!! any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciate. i'm at my wits end!!!

 

[Joe G.]

I assume that you have a 12 valve since you are posting to this forum. A signature would help us help you.



There are a few posibilities. I suspect that it is the fuel heater. That's easy to test. Just remove it. You need a 17mm socket and a 10 mm allen wrench. Remove the pre-filter from the bottom with the 17mm socket. Then remove the fuel heater screw with the 10mm allen wrench. Remove the black hockey puck looking fuel heater. Put the pre-filter on without the fuel heater. Start it.



You don't have to bleed the injectors and other stuff with a P7100 fuel system. Waste of time. You may have to let the starter cool a couple of times (10 seconds limit on cranking), but it will start.



I don't know where you live, but if it does not get really cold in the winter you can leave the fuel heater off.

 

[cluckmaster]

Thanks, Joe. I'll try removing the fuel heater next. i just joined and have'nt added my signature yet. I have a 97 2500, 4x4, Amsoil air filter, # 8 plate, straight piped, and removed silencer ring. I live in Delaware. As I am fairly new to working on a Cummins, how does the fuel heater cause the fuel system to lose prime or start hard? Thanks again for the help.

 

[Joe G.]

The fuel heater burns up. You cannot tell anything is wrong by looking at it. The first picture below is the fuel heater with the rivets drilled out.



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The next picture shows the inside and what happened to mine when it burned out.



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The last picture shows where the leak was in mine. You can't see the leak. What I think happens is that the pin gets hot and melts the plastic around it so there is a little clearance which leaks air.



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This is not the only place that can leak air and be a bear to find. This one is easy to check and if you leave it out costs nothing to fix. You could also have a leaking fitting. The one on top of the fuel heater is really a poor excuse for a fitting.



I found the leak by dunking the whole mess in a five gallon bucket of water. That included the steel line to the top of the heater through the steel line that goes to the fuel heater. Another guy did that and found a bad fitting on top of his fuel heater.

 

[Champane Flight]

Maybe?

Fuel return spring?

 

[cluckmaster]

Removed the fuel heater, and it was definitely cooked. Truck started up good, so I'm going to let it sit over night and try it in the morning just to make sure. Thanks for the help!

 

[budctdca]

seems to me we had the same problem with my dads old 96, i think the fuel shutoff solenoid was bad...