how much weight can our trucks pull from the ball?

[abdiver]

Tires again! If you put 6000lbs of tongue wieght on the back of a srw truck, you will be way over the tires rating. That one will get you in trouble with the man, and likely with fate in the form of a blowout at speed You probably wont actually have that much on the rear tires, but I would check.

YBut the highest rated Pintle Hook with Shank, 10K

# Tongue Weight: 4,000 lbs. or so

and

# Pintle Capacityf higher than the 10,000 lbs. perhaps 16K or so. As I like a safety factor I would not go to the max but in case of a emergency action or reaction I would rather have my hitch parts under loaded than right at the max



Like I stated earlier I want to haul a 10600 lb tractor with the weight of the trailer aprox 3000 I will be close to 14000 lb so a Pintle Capacityf 10,000 lbs seems just not enough.



Was hoping someone had a source for a pintle hitch for me

Bill

 

[betterthanstock]

YBut the highest rated Pintle Hook with Shank, 10K

# Tongue Weight: 4,000 lbs. or so

and

# Pintle Capacityf higher than the 10,000 lbs. perhaps 16K or so. As I like a safety factor I would not go to the max but in case of a emergency action or reaction I would rather have my hitch parts under loaded than right at the max



Like I stated earlier I want to haul a 10600 lb tractor with the weight of the trailer aprox 3000 I will be close to 14000 lb so a Pintle Capacityf 10,000 lbs seems just not enough.



Was hoping someone had a source for a pintle hitch for me

Bill

pintle from Northern Tool + Equipment





especially this one

Heavy-Duty 3-Ball Mount with Pintle | Ball Mount Hitches | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[AABEN]

Use load levling hitch. IT will save your life!!!

 

[abdiver]

Use load levling hitch. IT will save your life!!!

I haven't heard of a load leveling hitch set up for a pintle hitch ??? If you do please tell me more.



Now if I changed out the pintle ring with a ball hitch

 

[CDonaldson]

My manual says 12K with weight distributing on the stock hitch. The DOT says 10K towing with a regular class license, regardless if it is bumper pull or GN/5th wheel.



Part of it is ALL about your tires, weight printed on the sidewall at a scale. Mine say 3195 lbs. Round that up for the sake of the math, that 6K on rear axle of a SRW. Since the 3500 is a 1-ton, basically that number discusses a max 2K in the bed. A GN/5th wheel squats the rear axle differently, as in a straight down weight vrs the bumper pull which puts a pull down and angular squat front to back of the vehicle. Thats what makes the different ratings in BP vrs GN/5th in how towing is viewed by our trucks, the geometry.



I have never heard of a pintle weight distributing hitch, only available for ball hitches as far as I know. Truthfully, the stock receiver to me was questionable in it's construction, there have been several failures noted here on this forum in other topics/posts. I opted to go to an aftermarket rear bumper built to take BP towing better in the overall and with the use of weight distributing it would also be safer than the stock hitch.



10% has always been my magic number for tongue weight, regardless of whether I was towing BP, GN or 5th. When I was looking at purchasing a dump trailer, I immediately went to the GN variety, no BP or pintle even made the cutoff because of the weight involved and how it would affect the truck in the overall use over time, causing a lot more stresses on the suspension and frame than that of the GN.



There is NO argument regarding that our trucks CAN pull more than their rating, the Cummins is one might engine and in many ways much more engine than the rest of the truck has capability. Where you will really have issues is if you were to have an accident, your fault or not, because of what you are towing and it exceeding the ratings of the truck it will be your fault regardless. Also, when it comes to failures of suspension or your factory hitch, DC has the mentality that IF you have exceeded the ratings it becomes your financial burden, another 'you play-you pay' situation.



So, if you have no issues with exceeding the vehicles ratings and the liabilities associated with this, load her up and go down the road, because the truck engine is capable while other stuff is marginal in the safety factoring.



CD

 

[betterthanstock]

I don't know where people come up with such low weights for the bumper pull without load distribution.

The rear axle can handle about 6000 lb (single not duals), the front 5200.

A 4x4, single rear wheel empty truck has about 2700 on the rear, and 4300 on the front.

That leaves you with about 3300 lb capacity on the rear axle, and a little over 800 on the front. Passengers add 600-800, mostly on the front.

That does not leave much extra weight to be transferred to the front with weight distribution.

Short wheelbase trucks, 2 wheel drive, w/HEMI need WD hitch. (single cab, short bed).



In WA state (where I live) they made me pay for a 12,000 lb registration for a 2500, so in case they say anything, I got the registration papers. They make you pay for 1. 5 times the empty weight, or 1. 5x7000=10500, which is over the next lower class of 10,000.



It's when you carry a heavy camper, and tow, that you are in trouble.



Just never exceed the axle weight ratings.



I don't see how a 1200 tongue weight can make you exceed 6000 on the rear axle. It will only add about 1700 lb tops, due to leverage (about 1500 on long wheelbase trucks).

 

[abdiver]

I don't like or want to exceed vehicles ratings and any liabilities. I just want to have my hitch and associated equipt a bit stronger that required just in case for a saftey factor, Don't like to cut it to close.

Thanks to CDonaldson, and the others that have given me great information and sources for equit



I just found out my old trailer weights 4100 lbs. The tractor weights 10600 lbs so total weight would be 14,700 lbs = 15,000 lbs or 7. 5 tons



I failed to state I have a Camper shell so that is why I would go bumper pull.



Since I have this 9 ton trailer from my construction company I figure I could use it



Anyone use a pintle hitch trailer this big or close ? I am looking for real first hand experiance on how it will handle vs a ball hitch on a SRW 1 Ton

 

[betterthanstock]

I just found out my old trailer weights 4100 lbs. The tractor weights 10600 lbs so total weight would be 14,700 lbs = 15,000 lbs or 7. 5 tons



Anyone use a pintle hitch trailer this big or close ? I am looking for real first hand experiance on how it will handle vs a ball hitch on a SRW 1 Ton

There is no difference w/pintle or ball without WD hitch.



I only towed about 12K, without WD (with air bags, and traction bars). Did not go over 70 (traffic) but felt completely stable.

I did not weigh the tongue. It was a rented tilt-bed, and I put the dozer on it until it tilted back up, and maybe a couple inches past that. I assumed they had the fulcrum point far enough forward to give a 10% tongue weight. Since I loaded it uphill, it probably had a bit more than 10% by the time the bed tilted back up. I was able to spin tires on flat ground, dry asphalt in first gear (surprised me). Also, watch out on steep uphills, as the center of gravity of a tractor is fairly high, and will remove weight from your rear axle, so you may have a hard time getting traction in the rain. (may need 4x4)



YOu do realize that 15K is over the factory 12K rating.



If you plan on going a long distance, or frequently, I suggest driving to a truck scale, and moving that tractor on trailer to get the proper axle loading.

 

[46mech]

abdiver,



Putnam hitches has the class V XDR. It's a 2" receiver that has a 1500lb/15k lb wgt carrying rating and a 1600lb/16k lb wgt distribution rating. They also sell an adjustable pintle setup (shank and all) with a 2 5/15" ball; this is rated at 1600lb/16k lb. I went with the XDR and adjustable pintle.

 

[Powder Extreme]

The most I ever pulled from my receiver hitch was 86,000lbs, yup, you read that right, 86,000lbs! I had about 5lbs of tongue weight, never swayed a bit! :-laf



LOL it was a dead semi. Oo.



I regularly pull about 12k from the receiver w/o a weight distribution hitch, never had a problem. In the past I have used a Torklift hitch when I was hauling a slide in camper, very heavy duty and rated to 15k if I recall correctly.

 

[RSG99]

It is not a question as to wether your truck can pull the load, it can. But you better be sure that you do not have any type of accident as the law will not be too happy if they find out that you overloaded your vehicle and caused an accident. In addition, most insurance companies will not cover you if you created an unsafe condition. And overloading is considered just that.



Rob

 

[Crunch]

The most I ever pulled from my receiver hitch was 86,000lbs, yup, you read that right, 86,000lbs! I had about 5lbs of tongue weight, never swayed a bit!

LOL it was a dead semi.

86,000lbs? So basically both you and the semi were over the weight limit...

How far did you tow it, and what was your maximum speed?

 

[Powder Extreme]

Actually Crunch, the semi was pulling a spread axle trailer, which puts the GVWR right at 86,000 lbs. The driver told me he was at gross, which means he was between 85 and 86k.



Towed it roughly 1-2 miles, around 20mph.

 

[Crunch]

Actually Crunch, the semi was pulling a spread axle trailer, which puts the GVWR right at 86,000 lbs. The driver told me he was at gross, which means he was between 85 and 86k.



Towed it roughly 1-2 miles, around 20mph.

I remember a smarmy Ford commercial where a guy uses the tow hooks on his F-350 to backwards tow a semi out of a tunnel so an ambulance can get to their rescue. The tires spun a lot and the truck jerked around as he backed up. Your tow is a lot more impressive. Would make a much better commercial, too.

 

[thashane]

F-350 to backwards tow a semi out of a tunnel

Backwards tow always scares me, I've seen some gnarly ring and pinion damage done as the gears dont enjoy all that torque in the opposite direction.

 

[Crunch]

Backwards tow always scares me, I've seen some gnarly ring and pinion damage done as the gears dont enjoy all that torque in the opposite direction.

Yeah, there's been a few heated discussions about using the tow hooks that way here...

 

[MAshley]

Ok I have noticed a few things on this thread, there are a few items people have missed, that are pretty important. .



There is what Can I tow... . and what can I tow saftly...



Others have said they have towed a 86K semi great the truck can move a 86K lbs rolling mass

Most mention between 10K - 12K trailers, I imagine average for the bigger tow haulers.



#1 there is the ability to stop whatever your towing, Obviously the truck towing the 86K semi, didnt' stop it, just moved it. A 12K trailer towed 500 miles a year is not going to waste a set of brakes on our pickups quickly.



#2 The rating on a hitch has a safty factor allready built in, so if you have a 10K hitch, in therory you can tow 10K on that hitch saftly until it wears out.



Personall experiance,



Dodge is pretty lacking on stickers or raitings when it come to my truck a 06 4x4 Dully, No where on my truck does it say What the factory hitch is rated for. I thought it was 12K but in some research I found that it is more then lickly only 10K.



Well Im in construction and tow a 14K - 15K load all the time, at about 18,000 miles I started to notice the reciever pitching down as if the trailer was slowly ripping it off of the truck, And in reality I think it was. I stopped by Tourque lift, and had them install a Super hitch reciever. Basilcy it is a double shanked " 2 X 2inch recievers" setup on the truck, I also had them build me a double shanked hitch reciever, think of a hitch that uses Both 2 2" holes in the hitch reciever So now I have a hitch seutp that is rated to 15K lbs on the hitch ball,,, that is the truck side "Hitch" reciever, double shank in my case, and I used a 30K balll. IF I want to buy the Tow Beast recever head, and use the equilzer they will rate me to 17K lbs Oo.



So far so good, I have check it regullary.



Now in regards to stopping, From experiance electric brakes on 7K and 6K axles SUCK, dont' kid your self there the cheapest things out there... . I hate them.



I installed a exhaust brake, and downshift whenever possiable, and drive consurvetly and Im now at 50K miles. So far so good right ... um well Im not sure.....



I feel as if the truck can handle it, but if I had an emergency situation I'm not so sure I could stop fast enough, so the choice is yours, just be safey what ever you tow.



For referance truck weight about 9K with tools, fuel ETC total accross the scales is between 24K - 25K depending on which machine, tool , combinations I have. I'm Licenced for 26K lbs and just stay a smige under.





A better situation for me would be to use a Goosneck trailer, the only issue is with the extra trailer weight, I wouldn't gain a lot of capasity, going from a 14K trailer that weight 3. 5 to 4K about 10K capasity to a 20K rated trailer that weight 6K or about 13K capasity. I am pretty sure the same load would go over the 26K point hauling the same equipment, therefor requiring a CDL and more licencing on the truck, I have been told the brakes on a 10K axle are far superiour to the 7K axle brakes I have curently. In the end I will have spent another $10K on the trailer, should have better brakes on the trailer, weight more, but might feel more comfortable going down the road. Or I could just buy a bigger truck Oo.

 

[MAshley]

Ok I have noticed a few things on this thread, there are a few items people have missed, that are pretty important. .



There is what Can I tow... . and what can I tow saftly...



Others have said they have towed a 86K semi great the truck can move a 86K lbs rolling mass

Most mention between 10K - 12K trailers, I imagine average for the bigger tow haulers.



#1 there is the ability to stop whatever your towing, Obviously the truck towing the 86K semi, didnt' stop it, just moved it. A 12K trailer towed 500 miles a year is not going to waste a set of brakes on our pickups quickly.



#2 The rating on a hitch has a safty factor allready built in, so if you have a 10K hitch, in therory you can tow 10K on that hitch saftly until it wears out.



Personall experiance,



Dodge is pretty lacking on stickers or raitings when it come to my truck a 06 4x4 Dully, No where on my truck does it say What the factory hitch is rated for. I thought it was 12K but in some research I found that it is more then lickly only 10K.



Well Im in construction and tow a 14K - 15K load all the time, at about 18,000 miles I started to notice the reciever pitching down as if the trailer was slowly ripping it off of the truck, And in reality I think it was. I stopped by Tourque lift, and had them install a Super hitch reciever. Basilcy it is a double shanked " 2 X 2inch recievers" setup on the truck, I also had them build me a double shanked hitch reciever, think of a hitch that uses Both 2 2" holes in the hitch reciever So now I have a hitch seutp that is rated to 15K lbs on the hitch ball,,, that is the truck side "Hitch" reciever, double shank in my case, and I used a 30K balll. IF I want to buy the Tow Beast recever head, and use the equilzer they will rate me to 17K lbs Oo.



So far so good, I have check it regullary.



Now in regards to stopping, From experiance electric brakes on 7K and 6K axles SUCK, dont' kid your self there the cheapest things out there... . I hate them.



I installed a exhaust brake, and downshift whenever possiable, and drive consurvetly and Im now at 50K miles. So far so good right ... um well Im not sure.....



I feel as if the truck can handle it, but if I had an emergency situation I'm not so sure I could stop fast enough, so the choice is yours, just be safey what ever you tow.



For referance truck weight about 9K with tools, fuel ETC total accross the scales is between 24K - 25K depending on which machine, tool , combinations I have. I'm Licenced for 26K lbs and just stay a smige under.





A better situation for me would be to use a Goosneck trailer, the only issue is with the extra trailer weight, I wouldn't gain a lot of capasity, going from a 14K trailer that weight 3. 5 to 4K about 10K capasity to a 20K rated trailer that weight 6K or about 13K capasity. I am pretty sure the same load would go over the 26K point hauling the same equipment, therefor requiring a CDL and more licencing on the truck, I have been told the brakes on a 10K axle are far superiour to the 7K axle brakes I have curently. In the end I will have spent another $10K on the trailer, should have better brakes on the trailer, weight more, but might feel more comfortable going down the road. Or I could just buy a bigger truck Oo.