Brad, I think the question is, who has the guts to sell me one, knowing I tell the truth about how parts last, and wether they hold up as advertised!:-{} 

Originally posted by South Bend Clutch
Larry,
. I told him that there were plenty of people out west using our clutch and this is how they do it. I said the folks down south are in a different category and if you want to compete with them this is not the clutch for you. He said he was going to stay simple and pull once or twice at the local fairs.
Peter
Originally posted by South Bend Clutch
.
****. . will it hold a 1000 hp, who knows because KNOWONE HAS A 1000 HP. ****
I will put up a $1000 bet with you that in Thunder In Muncie this year KNOWONE can come close to that on the dyno. You taken the bet?![]()
Peter
Originally posted by South Bend Clutch
Larry,
I did not expect this kind of post out of you.
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... . I fully understand your surprise. I have purposely stayed out of the "wars" on TDR and the other forums and try only to offer advice where it might benefit my fellow diesel owners. I might add that I'm not in the business of selling any products on TDR or any other forum.
On the other hand you come on here and violate the TDR posting rules :--) (rules 5. 1 and 5. 2 for sure), then tell me that I should be telling a new guy to worry about his yoke, driveshaft and rearend while sled pulling at low horsepower? Larry
Quote: Peter:
First off, if you sled pull enough times you WILL burn up any clutch.
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So, what is your point? The better question is how many times will it sled pull before the clutch burns up? I've seen highly touted single disc clutches make 1-3 pulls and fail to move the sled. There is a video on another site of Piers smoking his SB clutch trying to pull (for the first time?) a sled with a two wheel drive!! Larry
Quote: Peter:
He comes on here and you guys thrash everything that I just said to him. Yes, I take it personal, now.
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I had no way of knowing that he talked with you or what you told him. That said, I'm shocked that you would say that I (we?) thrashed anything. We said to save your money and get a pulling clutch that will take it. It just so happens that Mitchell's clutch is the only one currently on the market that is considered bullet proof and used by all the serious pullers. You told me a several months ago that you had a Rocky Mountain company developing your sled pulling clutch and the progress was slow. Is this the same company that copied Mitchell's compound turbo's?
As far as you taking it personal... ... ..... it's a free country, take it as you, wish but I find life to be much more enjoyable to not get personal![]()
.
Quote: Peter:
Your comments about me owning a diesel and sled pulling and lack of experience. Lets see... I have our clutch in the fastest Audi in the world but I don't own one of them or a Porche or a Mit. 3000 GT twin turbo.
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Good for you, I wish you well. What do that have to do with diesel trucks and 1000 plus ft lbs of torque? Audi's that pull 40,000lb sleds? Larry
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Quote: Peter:
I also never thrashed Mitchell's clutch, I only pointed out what the differences were and it hit a nerve with you. We all know the center plate is the biggest issue. I am making mine as thick as I possible can.
Do you want me to stop working on it because you are satisfied with what you got?
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Peter, you said "not yet boys" look at mine, then proceeded with comparisons to Mitchell's clutch... ... . direct violation of TDR rules for vendors. You said in less then two weeks I'll have a clutch that ~4% more plate load, 1/8" thicker hubs? Not thrashing... ... . just a comparison, huh? Does Mitchell's clutch break hubs? Slip due to low clamping power? Hard petal pressure? Then the center plate, if thicker is better, again I say great. I have not seen a problem with any of the current plates. I may be a country boy but I also know that thicker CAN can cause permanent warping when heated. Has anyone seen a Mitchell center plate cause a truck not to complete a sled pull or drive away? If equally designed, thicker will probably be better but design is the key. Now before you start on Dave's truck at Scheid's, I asked him that night and the pressure plate that he was running was not the plate the he sells to the public. I do agree that competition is good and hope to see more products on the market. Why do you need to tear at others if your product is truly superior?
Quote: Peter:
Gene is the only one here that realizes this is only good for the industry. But at least you have someone here that knows some of the weak points and is willing to take a stab at making it better.
enough said
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Gene knows? Well you got me there![]()
. He does seem very reluctant to wrench on his own truck. I did learn from him that if you have a cammed up 12V that you need to start your sled pull at 4000rpm and build60lbs of boost. Frankly though, if you tune your stock (pitifully) VP44 pumped 24V for some torque, you can start your pull from 2000-3000rpm. I used to use 2800 and have built as much as 30lbs but now prefer to use 2500rpm and 10lbs. You just use your clutch to "feel" the track and improve traction/limit hopping. PLEASE, don't tell Gene though, he might have a "Amsoil Moment":-{}
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Peter, I have never posted my negative experiences with your and other clutches. I knew that you are easily offended, and only posted re the sled pulling clutch to prevent the $$'s and anguish that to many have expended when they were duped into pulling with a inadequate clutch. You did draw me out, I'll no longer stay quiet because you crossed the line. It's true that my reputation was hurt when your clutches failed (none were ever in competition) and you were less then forthcoming. I did talk directly to you about it, didn't push or complain but that's not my style. If I posted my convictions on 24V clutches, I COULD have said the the newer Centerforce DUALFRICTION clutch is real decent for mid horsepower CTDs, can be purchased for a little over $400. It out performs some higher priced aftermarket clutches. Summit racing sells the dual disc McCleod street clutch for $1070 and that includes a billet flywheel (we need that being limited to 3500rpm?), a spring release centerplate and wonderful streetability. It will hold all but the strongest 24V's on the street and has been known to make it through a full season of sled pulling but they nor I recommend it as a pulling clutch as it will shed the lining if overheated. Some have broken clutch hubs after serious sledding with the street McCleod. The Mitchell clutch IS considered by me and most pullers to be as bulletproof as anything on the market. Better then other stock CTD driveline componets. It has better streetabilty and costs the same or slightly less then the other dual disc pulling clutch now on the market. Yours is not on the market so it may very well be the latest and greatest, who knows? I don't claim to.
Finally I wish you luck with your new clutch. Being a country boy I do hope that you will lift yourself up by your own boot straps, not try to climb to the top by stomping on shoulders.
You have my sincere condolences if a large company such as LUK saw fit to steal your clutch material. I can only imagine how many chemical, mechanical and industrial engineers you have to employ to develop and manufacture the lining the THEY took from YOU. It is a sad statement that society has fallen this far. Larry
I've seen highly touted single disc clutches make 1-3 pulls and fail to move the sled. There is a video on another site of Piers smoking his SB clutch trying to pull (for the first time?) a sled with a two wheel drive!! Larry
You told me a several months ago that you had a Rocky Mountain company developing your sled pulling clutch and the progress was slow. Is this the same company that copied Mitchell's compound turbo's?
Gene is the only one here that realizes this is only good for the industry. But at least you have someone here that knows some of the weak points and is willing to take a stab at making it better.
Peter, I have never posted my negative experiences with your and other clutches. I knew that you are easily offended,
It's true that my reputation was hurt when your clutches failed (none were ever in competition) and you were less then forthcoming. I did talk directly to you about it, didn't push or complain but that's not my style
I have not seen a problem with any of the current plates. I may be a country boy but I also know that thicker CAN can cause permanent warping when heated. Has anyone seen a Mitchell center plate cause a truck not to complete a sled pull or drive away? If equally designed, thicker will probably be better but design is the key.
Originally posted by South Bend Clutch
Larry,
I don't take any of this personal and hope we can still chew the fat at the events.
Peter
Originally posted by csevers
But maybe a little long winded?????