Hub Removal Tool that is a MUST HAVE!

[JCockerill]

DHP1, Adaptor, Removal, Wheel Hub, Dodge



any of you guys that have had nightmare hub removal storys or are afraid to tackle the job because of all the problems out there. BUY THIS TOOL!



I used it today on my hubs and they were SEIZED to the nuckle. once the four bolts were loose. this tool made the hub come off in about 5 minutes flat!



It goes on the loose bolt head and you turn the steering with engine runing and the power steering force just pops the hub right out. Leave it to snap on to make another GREAT tool. This is a must have for us dodge guys because you WILL be in the to change ball joints or bearings at some point if you keep the truck for any amount of time.

 

[Tinman]

When I replaced my 06 hubs with Dynatrac, it wasn't to bad at all. Had about 60K on the clock. My 01 on the other hand was a nightmare. At about a 100k, it took hours to beat the hubs off. I only did ball joints at the time (turned out it was the track bar), so I just re-did that job for my worn out wheel bearing at 170k. Having used anti-seize the first time they were out, it was a piece of cake the second time. Removing the hubs for the first time is really the only big hassle b/o using anti-seize will solve the problem for the future. That being said, a hub removal tool is a good thing to have.

 

[Matt400]

DHP1, Adaptor, Removal, Wheel Hub, Dodge



It goes on the loose bolt head

?? I am trying to visualize, sounds cool! but what loose bolt head?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

This technique been posted on here before - but you can do it for a lot less than the cost of that tool. I'm not sure if the threads are the same on the 3rd gen as on the 2nd gen but here's a post I did on it:

I don't know if it would work on the 3rd gen axle but on 2nd gen's there is a trick that makes the hubs REAL easy to remove. Lsfarm let me know about it and I'll have an article in the magazine soon on ball joint replacement that includes it. What you can do on the 2nd gen axle is first you soak everything down with penetrant the night before (I used PB Blaster) then you get down to where it's time to remove the hub. Take 2 14mm x 1. 5 x 6 inch long grade 8 bolts and screw them into the back side of the hub on opposite sides (front bottom, and back top for example). Then you start the truck up, turn the steering knuckle (by hand - it'll turn easy if both tires are off the ground which they have to be) until the bolt is contacting the axle housing - you may need to put a socket or something in there as well. Then you just turn the steering wheel slightly and use the power steering to push the hub out. Turn it to the right slightly and then turn the knuckle the other direction until the bolt is contacting the housing (again use a socket if necessary). Turn the steering wheel slightly to push it out again. Go back and forth until the hub is pushed out. I did it this way on my 2nd gen with 230,000 miles and 8 Michigan winters worth of salt and corrosion and I got my hub out in about 3 minutes. You can't damage the hub this way because your pushing it out on the back side and aren't touching the bearing. The thread size and length may be different on the 3rd gen and it's possible that it wouldn't work at all but I'm sure someone who's worked on the 3rd gen axle could tell from my description whether it would or not. Give that description to the mechanic and he might pay your deductible for ya because he's going to make a lot of money off future jobs using that shortcut.

 

[MAshley]

?? I am trying to visualize, sounds cool! but what loose bolt head?

There are 4 bolts that hold the bearing on the truck, But the bearing is in a cone shape fit into the matching part on the axle , I assume this allows the weight transfer to happen on the cone instead of the 4 bolts, Anyways thats besides the point. The point is it the bearing gets stuck, as in the two parts are made to come apart but not easily, a little rust and BAM its alomost 1 piece. People have been known to take HRS trying remove the bearing. . An easy solution is to lossen up the 4 bolts and wedge something between the head of the bolt and something that doesn't move, turn the stearing wheel and a great deal of preasure is applied right where you need it.



Took me about 15 min to do the first side and 5 the next side. Note that anything like a socket, steal pin ETC the right length will work.

 

[Matt400]

wedge something between the head of the bolt and something that doesn't move, turn the stearing wheel and a great deal of preasure is applied right where you need it.

Oh. . gotcha now. That spot is where I have a socket I have sacrificed as a cap for use with a HD air hammer but I like this idea better. Thanks for posting.

 

[NavyDood]

There are many ways of rigging up a socket, extension, wedges, etc... that have worked for many ppl, but to have one tool knowing it's sole purpose is to make the job easier would seem priceless. If it breaks Snap-On will replace it for free. Price isn't that bad either by any means.

 

[BigEasy]

I did the same job with a socket and short extension... $43 seems a bit steep!

 

[AH64ID]

I did the same job with a socket and short extension... $43 seems a bit steep!

That is one pricey tool!! But at least they show a picture so you can make your own!

 

[rjones]

I would like to know the OAL

 

[Shadrach]

Don't you run the risk of blowing a P/S hose? Shadrach

 

[mwilson]

Really designed to be used with a long pry bar.

Here is the instruction sheet that I posted on an old thread.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...1268408890-u-joint-time-20100312104229282.pdf



I know it is fuzzy, but couldn't sharpen it any as the site will reject it due to size limitations.



Length is 4 11/16" if you want to fab one up.



Mike.

 

[Bob4x4]

Don't you run the risk of blowing a P/S hose? Shadrach

No more than when you are out rock crawling

 

[AH64ID]

Don't you run the risk of blowing a P/S hose? Shadrach

I would say no, there are lots of times where your pump meets resistance, and its designed to handle its own pressure.

 

[rjones]

Really designed to be used with a long pry bar.

Here is the instruction sheet that I posted on an old thread.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...1268408890-u-joint-time-20100312104229282.pdf



I know it is fuzzy, but couldn't sharpen it any as the site will reject it due to size limitations.



Length is 4 11/16" if you want to fab one up.



Mike.

Thank You for that info ... .

 

[Bob4x4]

There is a pressure releif valve that opens at 1800 psi +or -50psi,but it should not be held for more than a few seconds at a time

 

[Shadrach]

Thanks for the info guys. I guess if it blows from doing that it was going to go anyway. Better to do it in the driveway than back in the bush. Shadrach

 

[JCockerill]

if you have ever bought snap on tools, $43 is getting out cheap! and if it works, which it does, i'm willing to pay for the time it saved me!

 

[mwilson]

if you have ever bought snap on tools, $43 is getting out cheap! and if it works, which it does, i'm willing to pay for the time it saved me!

+1 for me. Sometimes it is worth the money to invest in certain Snap-On tools.



For example, Blue-Point hose pinch off pliers. Invested about $65. 00 for 2 small and 1 large size pliers. Simple and effective one-handed operation.

Changed the behind the turbo coolant hose and only lost about a cupfull of coolant. No screwing around with draining, refilling or adding coolant at 10. 00 a gallon.



Also no mis-adventure with the cheaply made plastic radiator drain. PRICELESS!!



Well worth the price of the tools which I can use on other vehicles as well.

 

[bighammer]

I trashed my ball joints using the power steering to remove the hub/bearing assembly to replace a bad axle joint... .