I solved the slow fillup problem on my '03

[_Hyde]

I've done 2. The 1st one took about an hour and the 2nd took a little over 30 minutes. The first truck was a SB SRW and the second was a LB DRW and there was a little more room to work but I think its always easier after the first time. A couple of observations on the whole deal:



Most importantly, make it easy on yourself and run the tank down to minimize weight and the tendency of the tank to get heavier on one side due to fuel moving to one side or the other. The first one we did had been driven about 10 miles after the fuel light came on and I wouldn't want any more fuel than that in there if doing it again. From what I've read earlier in this thread there were guys who had run 100 miles or more after the light came on and still had some fuel left. After the 10 miles on mine there was still about 4" of fuel left in the tank.



Reconnecting the fuel lines presented a minor challenge on mine. They are plastic lines but they are not nearly as flexible as you would think and to get them to connect they need to be pushed on pretty straight. I found it much easier to connect the center line first then the other one and the electrical connector last. This gives you good clearance on all to get lined up and attached.



I think this one has been mentioned, perhaps by me, but to ease in re-installing the big plastic nut on top of the tank you can warm it up with a heat gun to reduce the chance of cross threading. I learned this from a guy who browses the phord bored. It worked on his phord and both of the Dodges I've done as well as my old '01 that I did a sender on.



If you are going to the rally in Kerville next month and don't mind waiting until then I can pack along the necessary tools and equipment to do it there. The install goes quick enough that we can't drink enough beer to impair judgement or abilities. Let me know.



Hope this helps,



Hyde

 

[RustyJC]

I used teflon tape on all the threads.

Not a good idea to use the white teflon tape with hydrocarbons (especially diesel fuel). You'll find out why in a few months.



There is a special yellow teflon tape made for hydrocarbons - some plumbers will use it on natural gas lines - but it's more difficult to find. Personally, I don't use teflon anything as a thread sealant for diesel fuel.



Rusty

 

[Gypsyman]

What exactly happens long term. I've been using teflon tape on my race rigs fuel fitting and projects for years. Not doubting, just curious...



-Richard

 

[RustyJC]

I've seen fuel pressure gauge fitting connections that were made up with white teflon tape start leaking after 3-6 months. When the connections came apart, much of the teflon tape was missing, other pieces came off in shards, and what was left was soft and gummy. Diesel fuel seems especially aggressive to the white teflon tape.



Having been born and raised in the oil field (my dad retired from Exxon) and having worked almost 31 years for a manufacturer of engines, compressors, gas turbines, turbochargers, etc. that are sold into the oil and gas industry, sealing hydrocarbons is something we face every day. My personal favorite thread sealant is Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer. I've seen it used effectively for over 50 years. I'm not saying nothing else will work - just that this has always worked for me. YMMV.



JM2CW



Rusty

 

[Gypsyman]

I had forgotten all about the Permatex #2. Thanks for the refresher!



-Richard

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Hyde, thanks for the info and the offer of help. I may do it next weekend when I am freed up. I hadn't heard about the rally in Kerrville. What day is the rally on? I would like to go to that to see what's shakin'...

 

[nickleinonen]

the #2 permatex is pretty good stuff, but it doesn't stand up to high pressure well. . i like plumbers dope for good sealing. the stuff i have is safe for petrolium products and seals very well, but it is kinda messy [and it seems to hold up better to pressure than the permatex#2]...





the yellow teflon tape is for oxygen fittings isn't it?

 

[RustyJC]

the #2 permatex is pretty good stuff, but it doesn't stand up to high pressure well...

I've never had any problem with Permatex #2 on decent NPT fittings that might want to weep a little otherwise, regardless of pressure. I believe I also said that Permatex #2 isn't the only product that will work, but it has always worked fine for me - YMMV.

The yellow teflon tape is for oxygen fittings isn't it?

Hmmm... . I wonder if you're seeing the same stuff as we do in the US? The stuff I've seen is pretty hard to find in the Lowe's or Home Depot stores, but I've found it in some full line hardware stores (not counting oilfield supply houses, which not everyone has). Where I have found it, it's generally marked for use with hydrocarbons or for natural gas service. Maybe it's labeled differently for different markets?????



Rusty

 

[_Hyde]

Coasty,



The Texas Rally is October 9-10 at Buckhorn RV Park in Kerville. Check out the thread https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109713



Hyde

 

[Yo Hoot]

Just ordered mine. Makes it nice to read others experiences first before attempting mine. Thanks members!!!!! and David!

 

[Spooled-up]

I just repaired all the broken links to the pics in the original post. Sorry about that.

 

[nickleinonen]

I've never had any problem with Permatex #2 on decent NPT fittings that might want to weep a little otherwise, regardless of pressure

the pressures i've had trouble with the permatex not sealing well on are in excess of 1,000psi [in a hard piped high pressure wash system we use at work. ] plain old plumbers dope worked best on that one [after lapping the union for like 2 hours to get a good seat out of it-steel to steel sealing sucks ]



for lower pressures, the permatex seems to work well [i've used it up to 150psi air pressure suscessfully]

 

[PKitchen]

Can anyone tell me some places where I can find Permatex #2? I went to Checker Auto. They had a bunch of Permatex brand thread lock products but nothing that said "#2" on them.

 

[Spooled-up]

I asked about this at the place where I buy my fittings. They did have some Liquid Teflon in a steel jar that said right on the side of the can that it was safe for use with diesel fuel. You can probably find this stuff at any plumbing supply store.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I just did the install and had some problems. Mostly my fault.



Anyone doing this it's important to look at the pictures of the stock vent hose as to where the cut is made. I made the mistake of cutting the hose closer to the tank which gave me all kinds of fit headaches. Be sure to do the splice close to where it hooks up to the steel pipe at the body. The text instructions make no mention except to look at pictures online. I suggest a specific measurement from the end of the stock vent hose as to where to make the cut.



Also I had a problem with the o-ring in the tank fitting..... as I tightened the fitting it squeezed out, then the locktite kicked in. I suggest getting rid of the o-ring and using a flat rubber or fiber washer.



I ended up covering the area with sealant and hoping for the best. Worse comes to worse I'll drop the tank again. Second time will be easy. Probably go with the pipe tap method.

 

[gsbrockman]

How big was the on your face after you filled it up for the first time ?

Greg

 

[Yo Hoot]

Didn't fill yet, she's sitting out there recuperating from the operation

 

[Jeremiah]

I filled up mine and the DTE was 684. Stayed that way for 150 miles before it began dropping. I should do well over 700. Will keep everyone posted.

 

[jcarey]

Yeh, we got 682 this fill-up, 678 (Ithink last fill-up), and 685 the one before that. What's great is that when the pump clicks off, you're almost at the filler neck. Only takes a few seconds more to fill to the brim.



Thanks, Dave! Oo.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Got 33 gallons in today. Tank label stated "34 Gallon"



$71 worth of fuel