Install of T connector in 14 SB

[Doc12]

Install T connector in main fuel fill line

I am about to install an auxiliary fuel tank in my 14 MegaCab.
Can anyone provide a photo of the T connector installed.
I am interested in the location you put the T along the fuel fill line to the main tank.
How much space is there to work with etc.

Thanks

Doc

 

[ichoplin]

I installed the line from my auxilary tank on my 3500DRW in the vent line. I cut a piece out of the hard vent line and "T"'ed into it there.

Ian

 

[ichoplin]

Sorry, just noticed yours was a srw. Idk if you can access the lines like on a dually.

Ian

 

[RikDavis]

I also went in the vent line using a home made fitting. I transfer from the in bed tank with a small fuel pump and a mechanical timer like you would use on a bathroom fan. It is slow, but gets the job done.. No problem accessing the line on a SRW

 

[Stab]

Those pictures on Northern Tools web site weren't helpful Doc?

 

[Doc12]

Stab,
With the T covered by another hose did not make the install clear.
Did they cut into the fill hose or attach it to the end of the tube and not cut the hose etc.
I guess my big question is, can I install the T without having to cut the main fill hose so I can remove the T and reattach the fill hose.
I like the vent tube install idea but concerns can you still use the rollover connector? By using the vent tube there would be no interference when filling the main tank.

We just got another 9 inches of snow today so I will not be under the truck any time soon.

Doc

 

[Hoefler]

I removed the fill/vent tubes, cut a 1/4" coupler in half, brazed the halves to the tubes, one on the fill and one on the vent, drilled them out and ran a tap through them to chase the threads, installed 90* barbed fittings and connected my hoses.

 

[mwilson]

I removed the fill/vent tubes, cut a 1/4" coupler in half, brazed the halves to the tubes, one on the fill and one on the vent, drilled them out and ran a tap through them to chase the threads, installed 90* barbed fittings and connected my hoses.

This right here sounds like the proper way to do things for a lasting trouble free install IMHO.....and drama free if and when the tank is removed. A pair of 1/4" pipeplugs restores the system integrity.
Very nice.

 

[Stab]

Ok, Doc I'll try to get you some better pictures when my truck gets home. "On the road again"! I have some reserve about using the vent tube on the filler system...account it's a vent. I know that it would probably work fine under most conditions but, if it ever did fill and not let the vent, vent and the filler tube happens to fill, and then you add some hot weather wanting to expand everything.... Probably not a big concern but, I decided to go the filler neck route. To each his own.

 

[gsbrockman]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-Flow-Bed-Tank-Plumbing?p=2398198#post2398198

http://www.unionhydro.com/RDS_Diesel_Install_Kit_for_Auxiliary_Diesel_Fuel_T_p/rds011025.htm

 

[Stab]

Nice price from Union Hydro!

 

[Hoefler]

This right here sounds like the proper way to do things for a lasting trouble free install IMHO.....and drama free if and when the tank is removed. A pair of 1/4" pipeplugs restores the system integrity.
Very nice.

Exactly what I do when I trade trucks, this is the 4th Ram my tank has been in. I have also done 2 of my friends trucks as well.

 

[Doc12]

Ok, Doc I'll try to get you some better pictures when my truck gets home. "On the road again"! I have some reserve about using the vent tube on the filler system...account it's a vent. I know that it would probably work fine under most conditions but, if it ever did fill and not let the vent, vent and the filler tube happens to fill, and then you add some hot weather wanting to expand everything.... Probably not a big concern but, I decided to go the filler neck route. To each his own.

Stab,
I was able to get a look at the fill tube on my 14 3500 SRW today. The fill and vent tubes are metal all the way down to near the tank. Does not look like I can get the T installed after the metal fill tube and I do not want to cut it.
Thanks for your help.

Doc

 

[Stab]

Stab, Does not look like I can get the T installed after the metal fill tube and I do not want to cut it.
Thanks for your help. Doc

Ok Doc. I just used a saws-all and a lot of magnets. Wasn't a big deal. Hope ya get it all figured out ok. STAB

 

[Doc12]

Ok Doc. I just used a saws-all and a lot of magnets. Wasn't a big deal. Hope ya get it all figured out ok. STAB

Where did you cut along the fill pipe?

Doc

 

[silver_2000_tj]

I just cometed this yesterday on my 2014 3500 mega cab, it's not too hard but you are working in such a confined space which was extreamly limiting. I ended up drilling out the rivits at the top of the filler neck, and pulling the whole line out. Once out cutting out a section on the work bench and installing the filer kit from northern tool. Also put in a 12 volt valve which I'm going to wire up to the AUX switches.
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[Joseph Donnelly]

I welded a bung into the fill pipe and then screwed in an 1/8 NPT barb.

 

[Doc12]

I just cometed this yesterday on my 2014 3500 mega cab, it's not too hard but you are working in such a confined space which was extreamly limiting. I ended up drilling out the rivits at the top of the filler neck, and pulling the whole line out. Once out cutting out a section on the work bench and installing the filer kit from northern tool. Also put in a 12 volt valve which I'm going to wire up to the AUX switches.
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Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for!

Doc

 

[silver_2000_tj]

Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for!

Doc

While you have it out why not put a simple 12 volt 3/8 solenoid operated valve in line that runs from fuel cell to the main tank. I had one of these on my old truck from 2006 all the way until I sold it on 9/13 without a single issue. The nice part is that the valve is naturally closed when the power is off, and only opens when you apply power. This prevents any overfills issues, so when you turn the truck off the valve shuts and allows you do decide on when you want to open the valve and add fuel or just store it. I do have a manual back up on the fuel cell as an emergency, but I have never had to turn it off there as the powered valve has always worked. I paid somewhere around $22.00 back in the day, and it's worth every penny if you ask me at $27.00.

• Suitable for use with hot or cold water, gas, air, very low viscosity fluids (< 20 cst), oils and hydrocarbons, e.g., gasoline, kerosene, or diesel fuel.

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• 3/8" (4 mm) flow aperture permits a unidirectional flow capacity of 0.6 gallons per minute (GPM) of water at 60oFwith a pressure drop of 1 PSI (0.6 Cv).

3/8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12-VDC Air, Gas, Fuel Normally Closed: Industrial Solenoid Valves: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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