Intake grid heater coming on while driving

[nmmegacab]

Dang... Thanks. Is this a job I can do without special tools?

 

[cerberusiam]

It is actually not that bad a job. A top side creeper and standard hand tools is all that is really needed. The only thing I use frequently is the installling tool for the cross over tubes. The injector puller is not a must have if you are careful. I have it for extreme conditions but don't always use it.

Here is a link that will walk you thru the process https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/148621-Injector-install-procedure-with-photos.

Removing pulling the rail and the VC spacer will give you more room to work in the back injectors is about all I would add.

 

[nmmegacab]

Thanks. Your info has been very helpful

 

[nipstech]

I've been fighting the same problem with my '06. My "setup" is:

• Boost and Pyrometer pillar gauges
• Cold air intake
• Straight pipe
• Air pre-heat delete
• Smarty Jr. set to Performance.

All worked well for over a year when the wait to start light would come on under the following conditions:

• Hard acceleration followed by removing my foot from the accelerator pedal
• Going down a grade and downshifting to control my speed.
• Exiting a freeway and using the engine to slow down.

When the light was on the truck was in the infamous and annoying "limp" mode.

All these conditions have something in common...the engine is being used to slow down the truck.
I got all kinds of advice from removing the pre-heat delete to injector problems so I removed the pre-heat delete and took the truck to a diesel mechanic friend who ran tests on all the injectors and they were fine.

One interesting note is I could use the Smarty to view and reset DTC codes. Most of the time there was no code to clear but when there was it was P2609-No Voltage Drop Seen From Intake Air Heaters.
Regardless of whether or not there was a code present, clearing the
(existent or non-existent) DTC code would turn off the light and take the truck out of limp mode.
My temporary solution was to press in the clutch and use the brakes to slow down. Not the best thing to do but it saved me the time of pulling over to reset the code.

Fast forward to about 2 weeks ago...I used the smarty to reset the truck to stock. Now the engine check light came on and the Smarty showed DTC code P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 1 Performance. When I cleared the code it came back immediately.
I bought a new wastegate solenoid, installed it and now the light doesn't come on matter how I drive. Not saying it will fix your problem but it's worth a shot. I bought my solenoid on eBay for 80.00 with free shipping (item 253310167894).

Sorry for the lengthy post but I'm trying to show you the precise steps I took...
Jon

 

[sag2]

The reason it throws the light and code when you let off is that's how it determines the return flow is too high. When you are off the throttle there is zero fuel being used. If it can't hold the rail pressure where it wants on decel it assumes the fuel is returning to the tank. It is usually correct.

 

[nipstech]

Just to clarify, sometimes when the wait to start light came on there may or may not be a code.
The engine check light and code P0244 only showed up after I returned the truck to stock. The wait to start light still would come on periodically and could be cleared with the Smarty. Regardless, the truck was in "permanent limp mode" since code P0244 showed up even after I cleared the non-existant code that turned off the wait to start light.

After changing the wastegate solenoid both the engine check light and the wait to start light haven't come on nor have any codes been shown with the Smarty. Go figure...

 

[Dwnshift5]

I have been having the same issue. But mine only happens when it's Cold outside. I can turn my truck on let it warm up then start driving. After a couple of miles down the road my chime will come on. The voltage will drop and it will do this for a while. Then it will stop and drive fine. No check engine lights. I have about 30k miles on Injectors. When i change my oil it does not seem any different then before. Could it be the intake air sensor?

 

[AH64ID]

I have been having the same issue. But mine only happens when it's Cold outside. I can turn my truck on let it warm up then start driving. After a couple of miles down the road my chime will come on. The voltage will drop and it will do this for a while. Then it will stop and drive fine. No check engine lights. I have about 30k miles on Injectors. When i change my oil it does not seem any different then before. Could it be the intake air sensor?

Have you checked for codes?

Are you running a programmer?

 

[Herb Bates]

5/22/21 WTS light came on, got home after reading it might have been my smarty, I reflashed it with the same SW3 and it went away, the program has been in for over a year, we will now see if it lasts.

PS Dealer Diesel mechanics know nothing we learn more from forums than they do in school

 

[cerberusiam]

The Smarty did not cause the DTC, the Smarty actually inserted the DTC into the existing flash. The WTS light and DTC was an add-on that did not come from the factory, either a dealer flash or a Smarty flash that used the latest file from Tech Authority turns the function on.

 

[Herb Bates]

Nope, the smarty has been in for years, But they did just do an airbag recall at the dealer and now it isn't working and they want to charge me big money to figure out why the light is on all the time for a connector they didn't get on good

 

[cerberusiam]

The code for fuel leakage has been in the smarty for years. If you have updated to the latest flash any time in the last 10 years it is there. There are some false positives that will trigger the DTC's along with an actual fuel discrepancy so it is not unusual to see it on an older truck.

 

[Herb Bates]

Never updated it because it would cause problems or cut your power output

 

[cerberusiam]

That is some pretty bad information. If you do not periodically update the flashes you don't get the latest fixes and then the actual flash becomes suspect. Never saw any issues over 15 years by keeping the Smarty software up to date on an S0-6 or Touch.

 

[AH64ID]

Never updated it because it would cause problems or cut your power output

Not sure where you got that information but it’s false.

What version of software is on your smarty?

 

[sag2]

He might be confusing updating the Smarty flash with the ECM flash.