Lawn Tractor

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I own a Scag 61" Turf Tiger to mow approximately 6-7 acres of lawn, pasture and ballfield. I used to mow with a 5 foot bushog and International 454 tractor. As anybody knows, bushogs are not known for nice looking cuts. I used to have a John Deere 160 with 38" deck to cut my lawn and it cuts good but it is nothing like as fast as the Scag. I have cut HOURS off my mowing time with the Scag and I will NEVER have anything other than a Zero turn mower again. You only have to investigate what the professional mowers use to know what to buy for time savings, maintenance, and economy. After all they are in a highly competitive business and they are trying to maximize profits. Also, the zero turn mower is MUCH more maneuvable than the lawn tractor around bushes, flowers, and trees. Also, Ebay gets my vote for maintenance items of ALL kinds for equipment and machinery.
 
I think I can better justify a zero-turn when I have more lawn to cut. Right now it's barely one acre, plus I haven't grown tired of cutting grass yet. Growing up my "lawn" was dirt and pine needles. When I moved to the city we had a cookie cutter lawn that took about 3 min. with a push mower. Now that we've moved out here I think a lawn tractor will be OK, it'll be much cheaper. I have witnessed the the zero turns in action, and it's almost comical how fast they can go and how the operator can whip them around. I need something right away to cut what I've got now, I'm already saving/looking at something for the future. Thank you for the advice hcole, I really appreciate it.
 
AHarris, do you have an update on your X300? I'm going to look at/pick one up tomorrow. It's an 07' with the 42" mulching deck, 130 hours, and all service done at the dealer. I've read and read until i'm cross eyed but was wondering if there's anything that's developed that one should look at before buying? Thanks for any advice!

Now the X300 has 89 hours on it (bought it with 37 and had the ignition module replaced under warranty as mentioned before). The thing is a beast and start up every time. I took the mulch kit off and put regular blades on and it cuts much better. I use the crap out of it and even put a ball on it to move the boat and a full size utility trailer around my property. About 1/2 of my 6 acres is grass that I mow. Oil changes are a breeze and the Kawasaki engine is smooth and quiet. It's a quality piece of equipment that will last years. If I had one gripe about this mower it would be that the hydrostatic transmission is not user serviceable and that you can't do regular oil changes on it. In order to get a hydrostatic transmission that you can do oil changes on, you have to step up to like an X500 or something. To sum it up, if you have a chance to snag an X300 for a good price. JUMP ON IT. This mower will last me 20 years and John Deere customer service is unbeatable.

And if you get it home and it suddenly won't start start, just replace the ignition module. It takes about 5 minutes to change and costs about $50 if it's not covered under warranty (which it probably won't be for a 2007).

For those dipsticks who make cracks about John Deere prices and compare it to Harley Davidson's mystique as if we're a bunch of dumbasses who pay for the name: get a friggin clue, you get what you pay for, dude. There's a reason why people love Harleys and John Deers... they are tops in their fields... they earned their reputations because they are the best, and not because they happen to have cool logos.
 
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Than you very much for the follow up. I went ahead and picked it up. I need to get some new blades for it and balance the deck(?). It has a mulching deck but it left a lot of strips uncut, I was told that it needs blades soon. I has 120hrs on it and looks incredibly clean, except for two very small cracks in the seat. It fires ride up and is very quiet as you mentioned. I can hear my neighbors mower from a ways away, this one I can talk over no problem. I'm going to buy a jack for it that I saw at TSC so that I can change the blades out and I already ordered that level gauge for the deck. Hopefully with new blades that should do the trick. I had to drive about 3 hrs to get it but after visiting with the owner for a few hours, I got it cheaper than you can get a used D series. I'm very happy with it so far.
 
Got my X300 in '07 and have put about 270 hours on it - great machine. Have about 35,000 sq ft of lawn (and weeds) and about 1 1/2 acre of weeds that I cut. Machine does a good job. I use good blades for the grass and change to older blades for the weeds. Only disappointment has been the bagger - the chute gets clogged very easily. The seat is ripped in a couple of places and some foam padding is missing. Tires are loaded with green slime - had a goat head problem and they did a number on the tires. Mower deck comes off in the fall and tire chains go on to plow the driveway. Only problem I had was last winter when it seemed to be starving for fuel. Changed a number of fuel filters, the fuel pump and all the gas in the tank I could - no help. Took it to JD and problem was a bad fuel tank cap. My deck level gauge is the center piece in the height adjustment knob. And I did cheat the interlock switch under the seat so that the engine stays running if I get off the machine. Enjoy the tractor.
 
I'm going to buy a jack for it that I saw at TSC so that I can change the blades out and I already ordered that level gauge for the deck.



If your JD X300 is the similar to my JD 345, you should be able to remove the mower deck in less than 2 minutes and it doesn't involve any lifting. Pull two pins, release the belt, unlatch the front support, and roll it out from under the tractor. It takes less than 5 minutes to re-install it without any lifting. I remove mine regularly for cleaning and sharpening/replacing the blades. I keep an extra set of blads sharp and just replace the dull blades with the sharpened blades. Later, when I have time I re-sharpen the dull blades to be ready for the next time.



Bill
 
Bill

Now that you have had time to use your lawn machine would you buy it again or would you opt for another ,with some different options?
 
Bill,

Thank you for the information. Once the deck is off, how hard is it to get to the blades? Should I build a stand or can you simply lean it up against a wall or something? I worry about the spindles. I'm waiting on my manual, I have a lot to learn still. Thank you and everybody else for the info.
 
Some guys do service the "sealed" transaxles, they even put drain plugs in them. I think some remove the transaxle, flip them over and drain / refill. I think the biggest killer is never servicing the things. Thats why I try to buy the more expensive units with transmission filters and drain plugs. I really like the John Deere X series or better.

The X310 has a K58 transaxle that can be serviced easily. Keep in mind JD sells cheap box store style machines and commercial rated machines like a X540. I'm sick of cheap mowers personally, no regrets getting a JD X series. Was a Cub man, the local JD dealer sold me on green. I have found that the quality is there, I also run a Kubota L series tractor for the same reason, some times its worth paying for quality if you keep things around year after year. Still running my 95 12 valve too.....
 
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I have to agree that Zero Turn is the way to go if you don't need the other capabilities of a garden tractor.

I don't have enough grass to cut anymore as I've covered a lot of it with roofs. I have a total of about 3/4 acre to mow out of about 4-1/4 acres of property.
I have two properties and don't want to haul the equipment around all the time so I keep another used tractor at the other place.

I have this habit of picking up old garden tractors at the local auction. That's pretty much all I use to cut my two properties... old used equipment.

For my rental property I use this 1970's vintage Sears GT-16 that I picked up at auction for $150. Put a new carb on the old overhead valve Tecumseh. The tractor over all is in near new condition mechanically. The mower deck is solid, bearings are tight. Cuts grass beautifully.

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For my house I use a 1986 or so Ariens GT-17. These garden tractors are beasts. I picked this one up for $400 at auction. Needed nothing. Used it all last year. This year I had to replace all of the hydraulic lines as they all started spraying. Just took them to the hyd hose place. They copied them. Cost $80 for all four.

This machine is fully hydraulic. It even has a hyd lift for the mower.
The mower is driven by a small automotive style driveshaft with splines, u-joints and get this... grease fittings.
I don't have a good picture of it handy.

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Recently I picked up this old 1960 Wagner for $100. Sold it on ebay as-is for $865. Guy drove all the way from Ohio to SE PA to pick it up.

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Couple of years ago I got this 1978 Sears ST-16 at auction for around $400. Ended up it was barely ever used and in almost brand new condition. Still had the nubs on the tires. Sold it on ebay for $1875. Same thing... guy drove all the way from VA to pick it up.

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So not only do I cut my grass with used equipment, I pretty much have more money than I started with selling the others!
 
Thanks for the photos Yo Hoot! When I started shopping around, the first thing I noticed was vintage lawn tractors on eBay. I wanted a collection! I'm going to start looking at auctions I think. I want to get the old diesel ones, maybe a couple of the real old ones like that Wagner. I love to tinker on stuff like that, seems like with a little elbow grease you could easily make a nice return.
 
Some guys do service the "sealed" transaxles, they even put drain plugs in them. I think some remove the transaxle, flip them over and drain / refill. I think the biggest killer is never servicing the things. Thats why I try to buy the more expensive units with transmission filters and drain plugs. I really like the John Deere X series or better.

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I would love to know the procedure those guys use to to change the oil in the sealed units... any idea where I can go for that info?
 
I would agree with the John Deere 425 435 or 455 tractors, My brother has a Diesel JD 435 and has mowed more than 2 acres with it for the last 20 years. Uses little fuel and has been very reliable. The BOX store lawn tractors are really throwaway units. IMHO
 
I would agree with the John Deere 425 435 or 455 tractors, My brother has a Diesel JD 435 and has mowed more than 2 acres with it for the last 20 years. Uses little fuel and has been very reliable. Kubota also makes a Diesel 4x4 lawn tractor that is TOUGH. . Gonna cost more but it will be in use for a long time. . The BOX store lawn tractors are really throwaway units. IMHO
 
Some guys do service the "sealed" transaxles, they even put drain plugs in them. I think some remove the transaxle, flip them over and drain / refill. I think the biggest killer is never servicing the things. Thats why I try to buy the more expensive units with transmission filters and drain plugs. I really like the John Deere X series or better.



I made sure before I bought our JD345 13 years ago that it had a drain plug, an oil fill location with a real dipstick, and filters (2) on the transmission and like our two formerly owned I-H Cub Cadets with hydrostatic transmissions. I drain the oil and replace the filters annually with the JD fluid and filters whether it needs it or not.



Yep, I'd love to have a diesel powered X-series, but it's over my budget.



Bill
 
I bought (stole) a wonderful old now 70 year old three bedroom brick farmhouse on five acres four years ago. I already owned a box store riding lawn mower I had used in Lubbock but it was inadequate for the mowing chores and unable to perform any other chores. I quickly learned I needed something larger and more competent.

I started out seriously considering a JD. I live in cotton farming country where the local farmers are so loyal to John Deere products they insist their wives wear JD green and yellow underwear. I also asked Bill Stockard for advice. Bill suggested I also consider Kubota. I didn't know what a Kubota was at the time. As I studied my options I learned that JDs smaller than the huge farm tractors are actually imported Yanmar tractors painted JD green and yellow. I also learned that although there are numerous JD dealers and service shops around their priority and support in my area is for big farmers and big tractors. The size tractor I require and my needs are unimportant to them in the big picture.

As I began to look around I discovered all, I mean 100%, of the smaller tractors for applications other than farming in my area are Kubotas and Kubotas have a great reputation for being bullet proof. I learned that there are big full service Kubota dealers all over my region and in surrounding states. Smaller tractors like mine are the bread and butter of Kubota stores, not a nuisance. When I compared JD and Kubota dealer prices the Kubotas were more affordable. That JD green and yellow paint costs more.

I bought a Kubota B2920 which is a B series tractor (smaller than an L or an M) with a 29 hp three cylinder Kubota diesel engine, two pedal hydrostatic four wheel drive, hydraulic power steering, and a sun shade cover. I also purchased a front loader, 5' belly mount triple blade mower, and 5' rototiller. All the attachments are easily removed using the tractor's hydraulic or mechanical power.

I added a box blade, two row plow, scraper blade, trailer mover, shredder, and more after I bought it. Later when I learned that all I could do with a short wheel base tractor and a box blade was create uneven ground I had the box blade converted to a tow behind hydraulic controlled grader blade on a hinged axle and two wheels.

The Kubota can dig and transport dirt and gravel, lift and carry all sorts of heavy objects, mow grass (or weeds), plow, till, and cultivate gardens, build, maintain, and improve gravel roads, and many more tasks I haven't learned to perform or had a need to perform yet. It will work all day on less than five gallons of diesel fuel. It has become my favorite outdoor toy.
 
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When we needed a new grass cutting machine I looked at the Kubota line first, but we already have a L4330 and didn't feel like spending so much on a lawn machine. The B series are very good though, if we didn't need the larger tractor I would have one. The L4330 has over 400 hours on it with only one repair. The foot throttle cable broke when it was new, that was a quick fix. The latest JD X360 has had zero issues. I always bought the cheap sub $2K mowers and had the usual issues, bad transaxles, vibration problems, belts that wore out quick. The MTD built Cub Cadets are a step up, but they are still a pain to work on. The GTX1054 was pretty good for the $3K price though. The JDX360 was $4900 and the deck comes off easily, very smooth machine, you can service the K58, has a 4 year warranty too. I won't know if its worth the price for a while, I can say its the only mower that has been problem free in the first year. No issues at all.

If I was looking for a "cheap" new mower, the Cub GTX1054 and the Husqvarna GTH24V52LS with the fab deck are better than the average box store offering. Both have good transaxles with filters and drain plugs, both are ground rated units. They will last a long time, probably longer than my K58. There are the Dixon mowers too and the Craftsman GT line, all built by Husqvarna. You don't get much for $1600, I would buy used in that price range or maybe a D170 JD from a dealer.
 
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If you want quality, get one of these. They've been out of production for 10 years, but there are still nice examples around. I bought this two years ago for $2000. It's a 1991 model. That's just the way I got it.

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I have a JD LA135 that I bought from Lowes. 3 years old with 180 hours on it. Been through 2 sets of spindle bearings, the 2nd set purchased from a JD dealer. Other than that its been ok. Not exceptional, just ok.
 
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