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Lost my HVAC blower

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AMink

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Long story short--Dragged trailer plug and ground it down, plugged in since the connections were all still there, lights worked but brakes locked. Replaced plug, lights and brakes work but fan now doesn't. There is no fuse that I can find. Is it possible I made the TIPM gods mad with a short on the brakes? What about on the motor itself? Any user-fixable items? I'm in Hungry Horse Montana and will be on the road for another 2 weeks. Would really like to have A/C and a happy wife!
 
LOL…indeed the fickleness of the TIPM gods are well known and documented on 2006 trucks. And in fact the tipm controls operation of the fan clutch and compressor for sure, and likely control of the blower circuit. There IS a way to bypass and protect the tipm A?C circuits with a relay bypass, though this more commonly done for the compressor, not the blower motor.

Perhaps first check for DTC on odometer.

Also, member PWong here knows ALOT about AC problems on these trucks…perhaps he'll chime in or perhaps you should private message him.
 
Key on, verify battery power at blower motor.
The power comes from the ignition switch, to blower motor, to resistor, to select switch and then to ground.
 
I wouldn't swear to it but you may have to see the dealer for a TIPM flash if it (blower motor) is indeed controlled by it? On mine I intercepted the connector between the seven pin and the TIPM and put in an old fashioned fuse box to isolate the TIPM from potential trailer shorts. Sorry that doesn't help you much now :( GW
 
So I should show 12v at the wire to the motor if it's good from the ignition?
Yes.
The ignition switch was known to be troublesome. There were cases that the blower would run with key off.
Use the wiring diagram post.
If there is power at motor then resistor, motor and selector switch can be the issue in order.
 
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Thank God for this thread.
Been having the same A/C problems for months.
Diminished air flow, then no flow, then working again.
Finally completely quite a few days ago.
A month or 2 ago replaced ignition switch,which had shorted, seemed better.
then repeated.
Resistor burnt, replaced it.
Blowing now only on HIGH.
Then repeated and
Blower completely QUITS....
Took info here to as SAVVY Friend.
He called and told me to get a fan/blower motor.
I did.
When I arrived he had the old blower out.
It was difficult to turn, as in it would not spin freely and I noticed the fan/squirrel cage was dirty.
He told me he had been on the phone with the dealership describing the problem.
He said at first they didn't really/want to tell him anything. But he continued to talk and they loosened up.

Here's the conclusion we came too, based on the info we got and observations we made.

Blower gets FILTHY (No Intake Filter Like on Many Vehicles)
Blower rotation becomes more and more difficult, drawing More Amps.
My Ignition Switch Shorts.
Even More Filth
Blower Draws More AMPS Resistor Burns out.
Finally Blower turns with Increased Difficulty, then
TOAST/Burns Out/QUITS COMPLETELY.

I could be wrong, but
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Right Now Its Blowing HARD, like Brand NEW!
I reminded my wife just why I keep my Subscription to TDR!
Good Luck with your A/C problems.
Apparently the problem is common.
Talked to a man today that sold his 06
because he couldn't keep it cooling in south Fla.
And dealerships kept HOSING him.

05 CUMMINS
 
Last edited:
Thank God for this thread.
Been having the same A/C problems for months.
Diminished air flow, then no flow, then working again.
Finally completely quite a few days ago.
A month or 2 ago replaced ignition switch,which had shorted, seemed better.
then repeated.
Resistor burnt, replaced it.
Blowing now only on HIGH.
Then repeated and
Blower completely QUITS....
Took info here to as SAVVY Friend.
He called and told me to get a fan/blower motor.
I did.
When I arrived he had the old blower out.
It was difficult to turn, as in it would not spin freely and I noticed the fan/squirrel cage was dirty.
He told me he had been on the phone with the dealership describing the problem.
He said at first they didn't really/want to tell him anything. But he continued to talk and they loosened up.

Here's the conclusion we came too, based on the info we got and observations we made.

Blower gets FILTHY (No Intake Filter Like on Many Vehicles)
Blower rotation becomes more and more difficult, drawing More Amps.
My Ignition Switch Shorts.
Even More Filth
Blower Draws More AMPS Resistor Burns out.
Finally Blower turns with Increased Difficulty, then
TOAST/Burns Out/QUITS COMPLETELY.

I could be wrong, but
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Right Now Its Blowing HARD, like Brand NEW!
I reminded my wife just why I keep my Subscription to TDR!
Good Luck with your A/C problems.
Apparently the problem is common.
Talked to a man today that sold his 06
because he couldn't keep it cooling in south Fla.
And dealerships kept HOSING him.

05 CUMMINS

Thank you very much for sharing you wonderful lesson learned.

I totally agreed with your conclusion of the story.
Usually blower motor was the root cause of burnt resistor or ignition switch.
Apparently and luckily the blower motor circuit was NOT protected by IPM or TIPM.
 
Is there any way to clean the blower motor? How hard to replace the ignition switch and does that require new keys?
 
Is there any way to clean the blower motor? How hard to replace the ignition switch and does that require new keys?

I think I'd just replace it with a new one (blower) and get that COLD Air going ASAP. Rather than taking a chance on more problems you may not be able to detect in the very near future.

I'l bet your local NAPA store has one in stock just waiting for you. Takes 5 minutes to replace. 3 screws and plug it in, you could do it in front of the store and be COOLING It all the way home. No kidding.

As Mr.PWong said No New Keys required when replacing ignition switch, ask me how I know.
 
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