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Loss of ODB2 Port network connection, I think it's a TIPM problem

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Well, 4 drive cycles.. everything working no issues.. I'm driving it a bit more to see if there is a pattern.. no problem yesterday, 3 drive cycles, 2 which were over 30 minutes. No issue today, 1 cycle about 30 minutes. Could it now be fixed? Hard to imagine.. but this thing has been quite the saga.
 
Apparently 4 drive cycles was the limit. Shut down on 5th cycle. Before I shut the engine off, I connected the wiTECH to see what was going on.. same as before, no comms to ECU, everything else is fine.. this time no DTCs from any module.. the saga continues!
 
Almost certainly unrelated.. after a weekend camping trip with the RV, same issues with the ECU to DLC shutting off.. then something new. ABS light, and Brake light. Cleared on it's own after a few minutes. DTC was C103D, Rear wheel speed sensor erratic. Happened when not towing. It looks like about $10 part.. ordered one and will replace. Still waiting for the WCM, but no recent codes from it.. so less and less likely it has anything to do with the issue.

When I'm under there doing the ABS sensor, I think I'll double check all the engine ground connections.
 
Finally got the WCM.. apparantly shipped by an idiot. The flimsy thin cardboard box thrown in a bubble wrap UPS envelope and shipped.. and of course it arrived BROKEN. Now looking to figure out how to get it refunded or another one shipped. What a hassle.
IMG_20200827_172413776.jpg
 
Well, Summit Racing is going to ship another, they put in a claim agaist the shipping company, FedEx in this case, ironically shipped in a UPS envelope? To me the root cause was neglegence at the shipping parts department at the dealership that put this in the mail.. but not my call. Apparantly FedEx might pick it up within 10 days, or not. If they don't I guess I just trash it.

Oh, forgot to mention, I did verify the passenger side battery negative cable to engine block, nothing looked off, no corrosion of any significance, but I cleaned it up and bolted it back, the driver's side likely will be the same, but it's under the starter, so a bit more difficult to get at. In any case a total longshot that I'd find anything there.

I also reduced the number of engine parameters displayed in the Ultra Guage. Thought maybe too much data might contribute, but another longshot.. no change same issue persists.

Got to thinking about this, if I lived in an emmissions inspection state, this issue would cause an automatic fail, when it's ECU off from the DLC, there is no way to read any emmissions readiness, which is often the extent of the inspection.

It's just a strange thing, but thankfully no breakdowns from it.. just want to find and fix what is causing the bizarre issue.
 
After reading this (and some how missing it for the last few months) why the dual alternators, and are they isolated from the ECM? I only ask since the the OEM alternator does have a ecm controlled voltage regulator.

And I have heard of one truck that had random CAN issues (mostly lighting related) and it ended up being the gauge cluster since the CAN goes to/through it. They started with TIPM and ended with cluster.
 
Also looking through Prodemand (ShopKey) U0141 is an error code for any of the CAN B devices losing communication with the TIPM for approximately two to five seconds.

A long way to test it would be to disconnect each device until you no longer have the issue.

When you installed the aftermarket radio did you connect into the CAN B there? Is the factory amplifier still there and working? (these are all outfield guess as you have done the "normal" advanced diagnostics that one would do.
 
After reading this (and some how missing it for the last few months) why the dual alternators, and are they isolated from the ECM? I only ask since the the OEM alternator does have a ecm controlled voltage regulator.

And I have heard of one truck that had random CAN issues (mostly lighting related) and it ended up being the gauge cluster since the CAN goes to/through it. They started with TIPM and ended with cluster.

Good questions, and there is a long thread on the dual alternator install. The why is basically because I could, and I had ideas for using that extra power at a later time. The second is isolated from the ECU, with a separate driver that copies the ECU output to carry the field load on the second alternator.. or, I have the ability to run a single alternator, and pick which one is running. Call it built in redundancy.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/dual-alternator-install.258449/

The really strange issue on this problem, the rest of CAN is apparantly able to communicate with the ECU, but the ECU will not communicate to any DLC/OBD2 port connected device. The only thing that I'd assume can make that happen is the router, or in this case the gateway, aka TIPM. That said to have 2 in a row do the exact same thing? Odds of that seem slim.
 
Also looking through Prodemand (ShopKey) U0141 is an error code for any of the CAN B devices losing communication with the TIPM for approximately two to five seconds.

A long way to test it would be to disconnect each device until you no longer have the issue.

When you installed the aftermarket radio did you connect into the CAN B there? Is the factory amplifier still there and working? (these are all outfield guess as you have done the "normal" advanced diagnostics that one would do.

Ok, oddly, since I ordered the new WCM.. the U0141 from the WCM has not returned.. yet the problem persists. Now with no codes of any kind being stored!

I did use an interface box for the aftermarket radio, and the first one seemed to have some problems, so I replaced it (though could have been the radio also, it would not shut off). Mine is the STX model, so no factory amplifier. In any case this problem goes back to before I replaced the radio, it was doing strange things going back to 7000 miles when it threw a code that isn't supposed to exist on an manual transmission truck. I've had the Ultragauge on there long before the radio swap, and it would shut off at random since it was installed. I thought it was the problem, and swapped it for on in another car that had proven reliable, and same issue. I thought maybe power to the DLC/OBD2 port, but nope, has power.

It wasn't until I got the wiTECH that I realized it was just the ECU not in communication, I thought the entire network was down, because most OBD2 tools only read the ECU. Now I can see all computers up and talking to each other, but the ECU won't communicate via the DLC, but the absence of codes from the ABS, TIPM and other modules tells me the ARE still in communication with the ECU. I can't begin to understand how that is possible. If I pull the engine harness plug with the igntion on, truck not running, I can get failure to communicate with ECU code instantly. Yet, when the ECU goes dead at the DLC/OBD2 port, nothing. No codes of any kind.

This thing has proven to be quite the riddle.
 
So, the saga continues.. got the new WCM (shipped in a box this time, and it survived!). I got around to installing it and doing some other troubleshooting.. only to find what appears to be an issue where I can not program keys to the new WCM, after running the replaced WCM, and transfer of the "secret key" to the WCM.. next step is to program keys.. and it seems it will not let me program the existing keys, I get invalid PIN (but I know the PIN is correct, just used it to replace the WCM!) It was very frustrating, so the original WCM is back, for now. I ordered a pair of new keys to see if my theory is correct. Some litererature mentions that you can't re-use a key that has been programmed. What a WASTE. That seems to be the issue in this one.
Also, noted the new WCM ALSO has "development" in the version notes, just like the original.. so more data that it's unlikely to have any effect.

There is a note in the procedure:
"NOTE: If the original keys do not successfully program to the new SKREEM after the proper procedures are followed correctly, programming new keys will be necessary."

Though the bizarre part is I get "invalid PIN" when I try to program, and I know he PIN is the correct one. That is really strange.
 
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Got new keys.. tried again.. same message: Invalid PIN.. IT IS THE CORRECT PIN! This thing is really getting ridiculous. Just because, I'm taking a one hour break leaving the ignition on, just in case it is in "anti-scan lockout mode" for putting in the wrong pin, but it IS THE CORRECT PIN! So idiotic. I'm coming to really hate these stupid computerized vehicles. If the next try does not work, I'd have to assume the new WCM is just not usable, what a waste. I could try to fix the one that was broken in shipping using parts from this likely paperweight WCM, just the antenna is broken and it is 2 soldered pins on the board.. something I could swap for one more try. I've also not seen any more U0141 from the original WCM and even the new ones say "development" so it looks like yet another dead end.
 
Ok, I went online. Connected to a Chrysler Tech via Just Answer. Actually provided insight not anywhere in the service manual. Turns out with a new WCM you can enter ANY 4 digit PIN to replace the WCM. He said it's likely that I entered a different PIN, which I'm pretty sure I didn't, but stranger things have happened. In any case, turns out the broken WCM that I got came in handy. I took the loop from the 2nd one, it's just 2 solder joints to the main board, and fixed the broken WCM, installed it.. absolutely made sure the PIN was correct and did a screenshot! And it worked, programmed both new keys.. and all appears to be well...now time will tell if it makes any difference with the original problem, somehow I'm thinking not likely. But I now have 2 working ECUs and 2 working WCMs.. at some point I may end up with enough spare parts for a complete new CAN bus!
 
Unbelievable.
But im impressed from your computer programming abilities on this vehicle.
Do you have german ancestors?

Actually I think I do on my father's side, his Grand father still spoke German.. but it's a big mix, on his side alone there is also French, Irish, and English. On my Mom's side an even bigger mix, and rumor has it some Native American there, though never tried to confirm it.. in other words, just American at this point!
 
So, 2 short drives, and no issue, but a longer drive is needed to confirm, and my driveway testing had mixed results, I had it shutdown from the DLC and the wiTECH would not get the VIN from the ECU, just like before, and had to cycle the ignition, and got the same issue with the ECU not in communication to the wiTECH, with other modules online.. so I'm not optimistic. I did run an very long communication test routine with wiTECH, and for over 20,000 cycles it passed, though for some reason the ECU pings were slightly behind the other modules, though no reported failures. That ran for well over an hour.
 
One more drive today, no problem. I've kept the ignition on in the driveway with my power supply to keep it going for the last several hours and still working... Maybe it was the WCM?! I'll do some more driving this week and it will be awesome if it has been fixed! Still doubtful.. but crazier things have happened.
 
One more drive today, no problem. I've kept the ignition on in the driveway with my power supply to keep it going for the last several hours and still working... Maybe it was the WCM?! I'll do some more driving this week and it will be awesome if it has been fixed! Still doubtful.. but crazier things have happened.

Not long after posting that.. ECU shut off comms to the DLC.. did a ignition cycle, then a short time later did it again, and again.. seems the problem is not fixed.
 
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