2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission My Battery Cable Experiment....

[CharlieFoxtrot]

That's fantastic news! I'm off to West Marine!



Thanks!

 

[DWeaver]

Looks like an intelligent solution Mike, and much better looking than mine would have been, as pressed for time as you were.



My solution was to get dual terminal batteries and wire up the starter to the top post and accessories to the side terminal. I did use an oversize lug on the starter cable so I could add in the starter switch wire with it, on my '96.



On the slug solder terminals, I did have the cross cable on a '06 overheat and detach from the drivers side. So now I still use the solder slugs then crimp them.

 

[Matt42]

we went with crimp connectors and these hummvee battery terminals with double wall adhesive shrink.



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so far now corrosion and working fine happened to pick up the crimper at the swapmeet for $5

Five bucks for the lug crimpers? Why can't I ever find a deal like that? Oh. Wait. I did, once. I found an OEM, new track bar for $5.



As for cables, I like to use No 2 or larger welding cable. The finer wires stand up to the vibration.



I also use AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries, and I used to be an Optima-Only owner. Since they moved their manufacturing to Mexico, I get maybe 20 to 28 months out of them, so I am now using Deka or Odyssey AGM batteries. They are great at preventing cable corrosion and the associated electrical gremlins.

 

[RHestand]

Dumb question?
What technique are you guys using to solder the new lugs onto your existing battery cables? If possible, I would like to do this under my hood.
I tried this once many years ago with an open flame propane torch, with absolutely no success. By the time I got things hot enough to solder, I was melting the insulation on the cable. It was a frustrating mess!
Also since I also don't have a crimper large enough either, how about flattening/pinching the lug onto the wire with a hammer, then putting 2 or 3 divots in it with a center punch?
TIA, Ray

 

[guldam]

I really don't think soldering is required. Just crimp. I use my boat on the ocean and very often get the crap beat out of me in a short chop that makes everything on the boat vibrate. No lose connections. And all those battery cables get exposed to salt air, and I've yet (knock on wood) had any electrical problems.



Unleaded gas in my kicker is another thing however... I depend on Stabil, and Techron to keep my get home engine running.



GulDam

Dumb question?

What technique are you guys using to solder the new lugs onto your existing battery cables? If possible, I would like to do this under my hood.

I tried this once many years ago with an open flame propane torch, with absolutely no success. By the time I got things hot enough to solder, I was melting the insulation on the cable. It was a frustrating mess!

Also since I also don't have a crimper large enough either, how about flattening/pinching the lug onto the wire with a hammer, then putting 2 or 3 divots in it with a center punch?

TIA, Ray

 

[JKosten]

For under hood soldering clamp the lug in vice grips and heat it up until the solder is melted in it like a pot of hot metal. Then shove the cable in and wait until you see the solder bond to it.

As for crimping I use my 20 ton shop press and a punch to create a crimp that holds really well.

 

[mwilson]

For under hood soldering clamp the lug in vice grips and heat it up until the solder is melted in it like a pot of hot metal. Then shove the cable in and wait until you see the solder bond to it.



As for crimping I use my 20 ton shop press and a punch to create a crimp that holds really well.

That is how I did the underhood as well, I took the battery out and used the tray as a workstation.



You will see mentions above in regards to the solder letting go under high heat. That has not happened to me, none of my connections are crimped.



Putting a crimp in after won't hurt, but I did not do it on these.



I am suspecting that a certain solder is required so that is why I went with the Phillips Sta-Dry Solder Slug. They are color coded depending on what gauge wire you are dealing with. In my application I went with the orange ones (Part Number 7-265) which is for 2/0 cable. If your cable is a size smaller it does not matter as any excess solder will simply run out, just push the cable in slowly.



Link here...

Phillips - SOLDER SLUG KITS



I will be getting back to this soon as I want to complete the last cable and also have a plan to protect the exposed connection on the fender well.



Mike.

 

[klcammie]

we went with crimp connectors and these hummvee battery terminals with double wall adhesive shrink.



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so far now corrosion and working fine happened to pick up the crimper at the swapmeet for $5

Nice job I also went with these type terminals. Fiends liked them so well ended up doing three other trucks.

 

[HHhuntitall]

You will see mentions above in regards to the solder letting go under high heat. That has not happened to me, none of my connections are crimped.



Putting a crimp in after won't hurt, but I did not do it on these.



I am suspecting that a certain solder is required so that is why I went with the Phillips Sta-Dry Solder Slug. They are color coded depending on what gauge wire you are dealing with. In my application I went with the orange ones (Part Number 7-265) which is for 2/0 cable. If your cable is a size smaller it does not matter as any excess solder will simply run out, just push the cable in slowly.



Link here...

Phillips - SOLDER SLUG KITS



I will be getting back to this soon as I want to complete the last cable and also have a plan to protect the exposed connection on the fender well.



Mike.

Mike, I'm curious if it's the solder..... I've seen some of these let loose, although I can't say what solder was used to put them in, so... . But those ends were on larger 8. 3, LTA10s, and 855s. But then, knowing the individuals who were operating the machines, who knows how much they were cranked on before the solder gave way... .



Personally, I use the crimps, as it's hard to solder cables in a lot of the places I have to work, I'm sure you understand. Anway, I've not had any problems using copper terminals on copper wire. I have seen some Aluminum ends on copper wire cause issues due to corrosion.....



Get some pics up!! It's too pretty outside for you not to be getting things done!!!

 

[mwilson]

Had big plans to finish but that didn't work out. My prototype hot post protector was not deep enough so back to the drawing board.



BUT, I did find these nifty terminal covers at Carquest so wanted to share. Trimmed them out so that they would go on over 2/0 cable and they work great. Keep me from getting Vasoline all over me everytime that I drag my arm across the terminals.



$2. 79 a package.



Nick, I did get the right hand battery tray fixed and the hold down on so I am getting there... :-laf





Mike.