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Help!! Camper Battery won't charge when plugged into truck

Generator Tailpipe Spanked

I am looking to put solar panels on my Weekend Warrior. I have dual batteries, but sometimes (especially when I go hunting) I leave my trailer for a month at a time without being able to plug it in. I do have a generator, but I want something that will keep the batteries charged while I am gone (sometimes I leave it while I have to go back to work for a few days or so). I would also like to be able to recharge the batteries from running the heater fan at night while I am out hunting for the day.



So here is the question: How much power do I need for these pannels? Do I need anything special to protect the batteries from overcharging? What should I expect to pay? Should I permantly mount them, or just put them up when I get where I am going? Anything else that you guys have learned would be appreciated! I say that EricBu12 had two different pannels on the top of his rig. Why?



Thanks :rolleyes:



David
 
You are going use up about 36 amp hours just for what I call parasitic draw. The radio memory, fridge electronics etc all draw a little and it can add up, and a draw of just 1. 5 amps over 24 hours will pull 36 amp hours from your battery. That means that if you average 5 hours of full sun per day you will need to produce an average of over 7 amps for each of those hours due to system inefficiencies. In order to meet those needs I would recommend a minimum of one 110 watt panel running through a charge controller. This will cost you in the area of $600 to $800. Permanently mount the panel on the roof as a panel that size is hard to handle as a portable device.



If you are planning on using solar as your main source of power when using the trailer then you should plan on three panels that size. I have three on mine and even then we need to be conservative in our use of power. Solar is a great way to go but it does have its limitation. Given that, I would do it again because it is quiet, clean and pretty well maintenance free.
 
The parasitic draw on my camper is about 1/2 amp when all appliances are shut down. With good sunlight in the summer, and a pair of 120 watt panels, we can run the stereo all day, watch some TV, and run the lights at night totally from solar power. Even in the winter, we never have any trouble keeping the battery charged in storage. Solar works very well in the desert south-west where you are David.
 
I've not had any trouble keeping the battery charged on any of the three trailers I've had while they have been in the storage lot. The 1st trailer had one 80W panel (with a very basic charge controller), the second had 2 x 75W panels, and the current trailer has 2x120W panels (do you detect a pattern here?). All have had 2x6V Trojans. Like Ken, I disconnect the 12V supply to the trailer while it's in storage to keep the parasitic draw to a minimum.



A system with permanently flat mounted panels is the least hassel and least obvious system. The charge controller will prevent the batteries from being over charged (look at Morningstar or Blue SKy Energy). You should be able to get 120W panels for about $500. each and a charge controller in the $150. - $210. range. Flat mounting brackets you can make yourself.



Here's a good source: http://www.solar-electric.com/index.html



Good luck! You'll enjoy it.



Jay
 
A quick correction: I do not disconnect anything when my camper is in storage. The parasitic draw is about 0. 5 amp with everything connected, but turned off.
 
I just wanted to tell everyone thanks for the advise. Just out of curiosity... . how are you guys mounting the panels to the roof?



David
 
David,



I have 3 panels. 2 are 50 watt and one 100 watt panel. They inter-connect with wires and go to a controller that shuts off at 14. 4 volts...



I had the 2 50 watts at first and even with 2 golf-cart 6 volt batteries, I needed more so I bought the 100 watt.



The link at the top for batterymart, if you scroll down to the bottom to the 225 watt system, that is roughly what I have. The controller goes inside so you can monitor the voltage and what amps you are getting.



The panels mount to the roof using clips that when you see them will be self explan. they hold the panels 1" off the roof for water drainage. All you have to do is seal the area for the screw on the bracket... There are 6 per panel.



#ad




The top Item is the 21 amp solar controller that will come in the larger kit.



#ad
 
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David

Email me at sirdrakejr at aol dot com. I have a solar panel you may be able to use and you can get it REALLY cheap!

Frank

Las Vegas, NV.
 
David, I mount the panels flat but not flush in the roof. I use two pieces of aluminum "L" stock. One 2" and one 1. 5" to make a "Z" bracket. The 2" piece is screwed throught the 0. 5" roof decking and into a roof trust. The 1. 5" piece is bolted to the panel. I overlap the two pieces 0. 5" and bolt them together. I use Kool Patch Patching Tape (butyl rubber) to make a gasket under the piece that is attached to the roof, then use a butyl caulk to seal the edges and cover the screws.



If you want, I can take a couple of pictures this weekend, or the end of next week. Also would be happy to attempt to answer any questions or discuss "my methods" with you.



Jay
 
Go to Quartzsite this winter... Best prices around. You should probably get 2 120 Watt panels; Hard to know for sure without knowing the load on your batts. A basic regulator will protect your batts from overcharge. There is alot of opinion out there re this subject.
 
Quartzsite?

RRFinch





Why Quartzite? Is there a manufacturer there. Is there a certain shop I could call? I am going hunting in a month and would like to get something going before I leave.
 
FF1607 said:
RRFinch





Why Quartzite? Is there a manufacturer there. Is there a certain shop I could call? I am going hunting in a month and would like to get something going before I leave.

Yes, I do not know the name of the place off the top of my head. Directions are: Turn Left at the stop light. The shop is on your Left a short distance down. Alternatively, you could ask just about anyone and they can direct you. There are two shops in town, one East of the light and one West of the light on the frontage road.

Good luck.
 
FF1607 said:
I would also like to be able to recharge the batteries from running the heater fan at night while I am out hunting for the day.



One of the keys to getting solar battery charging to meet RV needs is to conserve your use of electricity. If you take a closer look at your forced air furnace you will see the fan has a high amp draw on your available electricity. Your furnace is also an inefficient user of propane.



I suggest that you take a close look at a catalytic heater as an alternative to your forced air heater. Catalytic heaters do not use electricity and make much more efficient use of propane. Olympian is a very popular brand of catalytic heater:



http://www.uscatalytic.com/heater_index.html
 
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