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New Cummins engine oil

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Ken, I don't know what the TBN is for the Premium Blue oils. I think 50% depletion is a rule of thumb and the actual levels depend on the exact additive package and the engine application. If you're going to be doing analysis, have some new oil analyzed as a starting point and then compare that to used oil. Following the recommended change interval in the manual is still the best bet.
 
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Originally posted by Carlton Bale

I think the change to the newer oil at the plant occured after the common rail engine started production. The FAQ needs to be updated to reflect that. I wouldn't worry about using non-synthetic oil as long as it meets the specifications in the owners manual. If synthetic were required, the owners manual will include that information.






I give up. I'm going to run Marvel Mystery oil and alfalfa sprouts in mine. If I keep it. Wish I had the Powerjoke back now. Anybody got any aspirin?:--)
 
I contacted Cummings about the oil issue and they said wait TWO oil changes before using synthetic. So I e/mailed back WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF TWO OIL CHANGES>I got a page of corporate Lip with no answer at the end of it. I asked if that was 6k,7500k,15k or 30k? Never got a answer just lots of space filled up with 0 temps and Tbn's and Dino this and that. Oh well. :(They can SKATE on ICE as well as any large corporation I've known
 
Originally posted by Carlton Bale

I think the change to the newer oil at the plant occured after the common rail engine started production. The FAQ needs to be updated to reflect that. I wouldn't worry about using non-synthetic oil as long as it meets the specifications in the owners manual. If synthetic were required, the owners manual will include that information.




Calton, you have stated in this thread that the Cummins factory, fills the new CTD engines with synthetic oil??? This is contrary to everything Cummins states. Where did you get this information? It defies logic that Cummins would state that you should not use synthetic oil in the CTD until the engine is broken in (which is close to 20K miles) and then turn around and use synthetic oil for the factory fill. :confused:
 
I'm not sure how much opinions count here, but here goes mine. I can think of a good reason to ship with synthetic, even if you dump it at 1000 miles or less, and put dino in. instantaneous, localized temperatures during break-in are extraordinarily high as the rough parts wear in, and the increased sheer strength of the synthetic would be a benefit.



but I remain just as confused as the rest of you, especially as to the practice of draining the oil very soon after you take ownership, the role of the oil as shipped from the factory, and how to maximize that role. -Doug
 
I'm am not a lube oil expert, so I'm going off of what I've heard second hand. There was a lot of validation work done with the new oil to make sure that proper break-in occurred before the switch was made.



Whatever the oil is that is shipped with the engine, be confident that break-in is not an issue. I'm fairly certain that it is synthetic but I will double check and let you know if I find anything any different. It'll be next week before I can get an answer.
 
Originally posted by DLeno



but I remain just as confused as the rest of you, especially as to the practice of draining the oil very soon after you take ownership, the role of the oil as shipped from the factory, and how to maximize that role. -Doug



I ain't confused. :p



Drain when you want. :D



Oil shipped from factory is there to lube engine. :--)



After 1st change, refill with Mystery Marvel oil and alfalfa sprouts which is far superior to synthetic. :eek:



I'm gonna start a thread on the dynamics of shifting in 25 rpm increases or decreases in each gear and the long term effect on fuel mileage and the corresponding increase or decrease in engine metal wear. Additional data correlation will include clutch plate wear, flywheel compression and rear pinion gear seal wear characteristics. Oo.



I've also noticed that the bass on the radio makes my mirrors vibrate and wonder if I should change the oil at shorter or longer intervals. Could be a harmonic vibration occuring within the HPCR allowing an overfuel situation causing oil ( I mean bean sprout) dilution. :(
 
Yea but are the alfalfa sprouts naturally grown or are pesticides used?:p I personally feel that those pesticides will reduce the effectivness of the alfalfa sprouts!:--)
 
Originally posted by ralphr

Yea but are the alfalfa sprouts naturally grown or are pesticides used?:p I personally feel that those pesticides will reduce the effectivness of the alfalfa sprouts!:--)



I only use organic sprouts! I certainly wouldn't use anything that would harm my engine. Organic sprouts have been shown to last indefinitely. See

< www.johnisthesproutguy.com> for the latest analysis.



They are definitely expensive, but I think it is worth it.



I don't want to start a sprout war. :rolleyes:
 
Carlton, I really do hope that you can get a definitive answer for us from your folks at the Cummins factory about the type of oil that is used to fill the engine when it leaves the factory. I try not to be overly neurotic about things like this, but, on the other hand, I strive to keep my tools, cars, Harley, truck and other assorted toys in good repair, well maintained and serviced. I read the owners manuals, get the required service in a timely fashion and used the right parts and lubricants. And, as I said in one of my prior threads, I thought I had this Dodge Cummins lubricant thing down until you posted your reply saying they left the factory with Premium Blue Extreme synthetic oil in them. And, I guess, in the long run, whatever oil it has might not make that big of a difference, but I, and I believe several other members of this forum, would just like to try and get the best oil, parts, and service for our trucks so that they can run long and hard. And there certainly seems to be lots of misinformation about which oil to use in the Cummins engine. Thanks.
 
OK, here is the official answer:



Engines produced for Dodge Rams are filled with Premium Blue 15W40 non-synthetic at the plant. The synthetic oil was focused on EGR engines such as the ISB02. This synthetic oil is "backwards compatible" and can also be used in Dodge Ram Cummins engines.
 
What is back wards compatible mean?How long before synthetic can be used in a H. O. 03. Cummings states TWO oil changes. Is that 6k,7500k,15k or 30k.
 
Originally posted by DPKetchum

How long before synthetic can be used in a H. O. 03. Cummings states TWO oil changes. Is that 6k,7500k,15k or 30k.





Follow the recommended oil change interval in the manual based on how your truck is driven. After two oil changes using that schedule, you can switch.



If you change the oil at half the recommended interval, it will take twice as many oil changes before switching.
 
Easy enough said but MY truck is driven in a WIDE range of conditions and situations. I think lots of trucks are. May go days driving 30 miles round trip to store,Several days of up the road(2miles for lunch)a few days a month making 100 mile a day commutes and a few weekends a month or so pulling 10k anywhere from 20miles to several hundered. Mixed in with days its not even driven. If it was a gas engine I'd be using synthetic in 10 to 12 k. Not 30kIt will take me on average 18months or more to put 15k on this truck. Last one averaged 6k a year.
 
Non Synthetic oil's I would not go over 3 - 4 months without a change, ( the short up the road for lunch 2 miles are the real killers IMHO not the 100 mile with a 10 k trailer). So prehaps a year? 2 or 3 oils changes and on to synthetic's???? I would probably recomend the premium blue extreme("synthetic").



And as to synthetic's, ( I do not want to start any oil wars here:-{} ), but please read the info put out by the various brands!! To my knowledge there are only 2 real synthetics on the market (Mobil 1 and the "A" word), all of the other "synthetics start with a petrolium base and add addatives and then call them synthetics, there is no industry standard for calling something "synthetic" and while you are reading check out who recomends an extended drain interval and who does not.
 
The "A" word is in ever thing I own from front to rear including a NEW Holland Tractor including hydraulics etc. I guess I'll wait to 15k and switch over. Hate to wait TWO years though. Thats why I like the A words 15w40 marine/heavty duty oil. Claims to protect engines that sit a lot also. Gotta trust somebody!
 
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A word, lol. Actually, redline and maxima both make true synthetics too. By true synthetics, I believe carlton is referring to an oil made from group 4 basestocks, pao/ester composition, rather than the fake synthetics like syntec, rotella syn, and valvoline premium blue extreme etc. He's right, they're garbage. Also as mentioned above, dino oils are really a lot worse if you do a lot of short trips or leave the oil in for months at a time, because they become acidic and oxidize a LOT faster. The A -15w40 Hdd/Marine is what I'm going to run till I move up north, because it's cheaper than D1. D1 is King though, and will eventually switch. :cool:
 
In my last Cummings (1993 W250)it got a oil and filter once a year. That might have been as little as 6k or as high as 11k. Same with my 1998 1500 318 slt Dodge. It gets the A word in a 10w30. New Holland tractor gets H. D. A word 15w40 once a year or every 200 hours. Just as a note. The tractor got 9 gallons of A word hydraulic fluid that goes in main body(trans,brakes,clutch,lift,bucket and Everything work smoother and better from the monment I installed it. Stops better,shifts better,bucket and lift smoother and quiet in all temps. Was A big difference. Cost was $3. 00 a gallon more the factory New Holland fluid.
 
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