Next week's project...the 200k PM.

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Window tint question

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Well, 200k will be here in a month (upcoming work)... so I decided to do some preventative maintenance.



I've read about the idler pulley on the tensioner causing grief around this mileage... so I ordered one from Geno's, along with a new belt. Belts seem good for 100k.



Although I had replaced the water pump earlier this year, I decided to buy a second one to have on hand... just in case. I have read a couple posts that indicate the store-brand pumps don't hold well.



I bought new trackbar bushings from Geno's... trying to stiffen up the steering... also bought a steering stabilizer to replace the stocker. I'm trying to buy a dual shock mount for the front axle, there isn't quite enough control there for my taste, so I thought I might experiment!



I also need to change the spindle bearing on the passenger side of the DT kit... the seal must have failed at some point and water got into the bearing. I may actually need to replace the stub shaft as it might not polish up.



I also bought new wipers (yeah, whatever) and new headlight bulbs. I have found that, while these new fangled "lifetime" bulbs last a longtime, they tend to yellow over time from the elements (those little spring-like coils) melting together.



I've also got a new set of Revo IIs sitting in the shed for winter... not to mention the GCF needs changing...



And I have a few other odds and ends to do. This will make around $3k or so in fixes this year (including a Smarty Jr, Clutch, and full brake job). But the truck is paid for, so I guess that's not all that bad.
 
Steved: I couldn't tell a difference on my '03. 5. I took a shot on maybe solving that pesky ever so slight pull to the right.
 
I've been fighting a wandering, that is most likely a worn out steering box. figure I'd get all the supporting hardware, then replace the box. I'm going to adjust it one last time, I may not have gotten it tight enough. It might actually be worn out (input) and adjusting the box (output) may not help.

I have replaced the balljoints with Moogs just this past April... they are still tight. I have just a little wheel bearing play, but it is perfectly acceptable amount. The rest of the steering seems tight... there is no play in any of the joints that is detectable.

I did notice my track bar bushings were sorta "smooshed" to one side... probably screwed up my recent alignment by replacing them with the Luke's Links replacements. Probably take it in for an alignment next week.

I replaced the stabilizer, the replacement wasn't as robust as the OE and the OE really didn't seem that bad with over 195k on it. But I replaced it since I had a new one.
 
I went with the '08 steeing linkage at 100K... better geometry and MUCH stronger... a good upgrade. Ball joints still tight? How old are your shocks?... opportunity for an upgrade? I also recommend the track bar bushings and add the steering brace. I would change out all the bulbs, to avoid future issues. Other than that, just replace all hoses (be sure to include the two heater hoses), the belt, and change all fluids. Clutch and brakes depend on their current performance. Lithium grease on all hinges (doors and hood) and you are good to go for another 100K! BTW, I carry a spare idler pulley but haven't changed the original (133K).
 
I went with the '08 steeing linkage at 100K... better geometry and MUCH stronger... a good upgrade.



My steering seems fine, except the box (haven't checked it in a while).



Ball joints still tight?



Ball joints are almost new... and still tight.



How old are your shocks?... opportunity for an upgrade?



I decided to order shocks... might as well throw that at it before winter.



I also recommend the track bar bushings and add the steering brace.



Did the trackbar bushings, considering the steering brace as the next purchase.



I would change out all the bulbs, to avoid future issues.



Have new headlight bulbs here, all others have been replaced or are LED.



Other than that, just replace all hoses (be sure to include the two heater hoses), the belt, and change all fluids.



Hoses appear good, fluids have been changed.



Clutch and brakes depend on their current performance.



Clutch is new (Con OFE) and the brakes were redone at 180k...






BTW, I carry a spare idler pulley but haven't changed the original (133K).



I have one and plan to install it, carrying the old one as a spare.





Does this mean I'm ahead of the curve??? :D
 
Well, just got done doing a bunch of stuff...



Took the tensioner and tensioner idler pulley off, replaced the tensioner pulley. It was still in good shape.



However...



I thought there was a second idler pulley, and decided to pull it and check the bearing. Turns out the bearing is in OK shape, but there was no grease left in it! FWIW, you can take a small screwdriver and pop the seals out of those smaller sealed bearings... I took a grease needle and injected grease between the balls and popped the seal back in place... hopefully I caught it in time.



Replaced the belt, then changed over to my new Revos, then focused on my steering. I'm pretty sure my box is in need of replacement, what's a good choice?
 
I replaced a spindle bearing today, which meant a complete disassembly of the dynatrac kit. I found this a while ago, lost a seal which allowed water into the bearing... rusted it pretty good. I was lucky in that it didn't damage the stub shaft beyond repair.



One thing all you DynaTrac guys should know and should do is completely disassemble the kit when you get it and never-seize everything. I found the spindle bearing spacer seized in, and DT additionally red-locktited the screws...
 
I would double think dual shock stabilizer , I installed a dual shock stabilizer and turning into a parking spaces became quite difficult. I remove one shock and steering return to somewhat manageable. The biggest change in my steering was the purchase of the steering box support and the Borgeson steering shaft.
 
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