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Nick's new Ram 2500

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2025 4500/5500

No heat in cab

The brochure weight for your truck is 7507.

If you take the GVWR and subtract the payload on your door jam sticker you will get what your exact truck weighs.

I didn't know that. Sticker says 2259, so 7741 w/o driver. My '01, right after I got it, was 7k with me in it. So, 15,120 - 6500 lbs dump trailer, has me at about 8620 with me in it. 10k minus 8620 gives me a 1380 lb payload:eek: No wonder the flimsy sucker is already level, with an empty dump attached:D
 
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1380 lb payload:eek:

Isn't it great!! That's what happens when vehicles get heavier and the weight classifications don't change.

I am a firm believer that vehicles classes need to be updated. Modern vehicles are far more capable, and heavier, than they were when the classes were set. Your 2500 is capable as equipped to handle a 12K GVWR.

Class II: 10,000 ---> 12,000
Class III: 14,000 ---> 16,000
 
FWIW, my 20 3500 CCLB weighed in at 8860 with a full tank and me in it.. so looks to be right around 8600 wet weight. As reference my 04 with the fiberglass cap on it weight 8250. Another interesting figure, Axle weight rating is 6k fr / 7k rear so 13 right... nope, door says 12300.
 
The brochure weight for your truck is 7507.

If you take the GVWR and subtract the payload on your door jam sticker you will get what your exact truck weighs.
File photo from my 2014 RAM 3500:
4AA970FD-0256-4447-AC3D-865E41DFD13B.jpeg
 
Had a glitch in the new truck today. Idling along in 1st at my poop location, the exhaust brake stayed on. I shut the switch off and even the tow/haul and it still stayed on. When I stopped and put it in park it shut off, so I went to drive again and it stayed on again. I set the fast idle and unloaded the loader and reloaded with manure, about 15 minutes and then it was fine, and worked fine all day. No clue what that was all about.

Using the box method:D I got about 390 MPG of def this time.

I installed a dash cover (Dash Mat) from Geno's and the velcro wont stick together at all!
 
Had a glitch in the new truck today. Idling along in 1st at my poop location, the exhaust brake stayed on. I shut the switch off and even the tow/haul and it still stayed on. When I stopped and put it in park it shut off, so I went to drive again and it stayed on again. I set the fast idle and unloaded the loader and reloaded with manure, about 15 minutes and then it was fine, and worked fine all day. No clue what that was all about.

Using the box method:D I got about 390 MPG of def this time.

I installed a dash cover (Dash Mat) from Geno's and the velcro wont stick together at all!
Sounds to me like a crappy situation...
 
Had another glitch today. We have about a 5% grade for about a mile on the way out of town. I had the cruise set at 59 mph (55 limit) and started to feel a vibration. After checking the mirrors and trailer tires I gave it a little juice and I could hear a bad miss. The truck was also slowing down. It sounded almost like a 3 cylinder deactivation. At 52 mph I jumped on it and it downshifted about twice then still hesitated for a second then took off. It didn't act like the exhaust brake this time. It ran fine the rest of the day. I think I have been hacked:eek::D

I sure am glad I kept the '01, pretty sure I am going to need a spare.

I have seen some threads about the fake display gauges but my coolant is wacked out. After about 5 miles of driving the dial gauge will show normal operating temp but the display will only show 130 degrees. After another 10 miles it will finally catch up. Is that normal? The oil pressure, oil temp and transmission temp all seem believable. At start up, all the temp gauges read the same, ambient mostly. Maybe the dial gauge is the faulty one, it never moves once it reaches normal temp.
 
Coolant should be real, and they should match. The needle will start to move about 140°.

On your EB glitch, was the EB light on or could you just hear it?
 
Coolant should be real, and they should match. The needle will start to move about 140°.

On your EB glitch, was the EB light on or could you just hear it?

I could hear it, even with the master switch off.

I wonder which gauge is off. I suspect the display because it takes forever to reach 195. It seems to want to run in the 200 temps when it gets there.
 
When you could hear the EB did you check if you were in regen? If I don’t notice regen on my CTS2 I’ve caught it by hearing the EB when I don’t think I should.

The digital readout is probably correct, as a lot has to be wrong for a digital error vs an “analog” needle.

This truck will almost always run hotter than what you are use to. The EGR cooler puts a lot of heat into the coolant and the block holds over a gallon more. It’s not uncommon for my ECT’s to go up at fast idle after a long tow, and then it takes a LONG time for them to drop. I’ve seen them above 200° at idle after 5 minutes, even when EGT’s have dropped and I know the cool down has been long enough.
 
I have not checked for regen yet, and never know when or if it does one.

Okay, I will probably watch the display gauges more, I got disgusted with it and thought it was bogus so I shut it off. It does cool fairly fast when I coast on a long hill (exhaust brake not engaged) as does the oil temp.
 
I’ll bet you were in a regen.

Yes with some airflow they will cool quick, parked even with the fan going is quite a bit slower.
 
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