Here I am

Nick's new Ram 2500

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2025 4500/5500

No heat in cab

I would have thought that would be long enough to relearn the locations.

Is the flat in the bed?

I was thinking the same thing, the spare may not have a sensor and the tire in the bed is close enough to the rear pickup to register as still being "there"

No, the flat is not near the truck. I put it back on, left front and it fixed the left rear notice. So the TPM sorta works:D
 
Do it! That was a must have when we built our new shop and it's kind of like a loader on a tractor - once you have it, you don't know how you ever got along without it!

X2 on do it!!! you'll never sit on you porch chair and say I wish I hadn't bought that tool!! It's gotta be one of my favorite tools I have (next to my tractor and loader...
Makes jobs like this, axles, trans, etc a whole lot easier :cool: .... but even tire rotations are a walk in the park now... if only RAM hadn't blocked access to that filter!

View attachment 130044

I have been doing some research on vehicle lifts, in the 10k range. I am dreading my transmission service without one. Of all places, Lowes seems to have some of the best prices with free shipping.

It will be mounted to a 18'x18'x4" outdoor slab. I hope that is strong enough. It does have rebar in it. One thing I don't see in the specs, is the foot print of the posts.

These are both ALI certified...looking mostly at the cheapest one, the Ideal.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-10-000-lb-Idea-L-Two-Post-Ali/1003140468

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Launch-10-000-lb-Two-Post-Clear-Floor/1003140462

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Looks good. Pretty much everyone sells everything they can make a $ on its all just pass thru and make a few bucks. I bought a sewing machine thru Home Depot.

4.25" is where the install guide has the pad.

Check this is the correct info but looks like 137"/138" (11.5') to the outside of the columns, and 116" (9.6') to the inside, but it shows some tighter stuff then that 116".

I really need to put a lift in at my place.

Good luck with your selections.

Pad
2.2 Surface Condition / Foundation & Anchoring The 2-post hydraulic lift should be installed on level ground. The foundation must be 4-1/4” minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3,000 psi. Failure to meet the foundation requirement may cause the lift instability or personal injury. Installing on asphalt, soft clay floor or near the expansion gap is prohibited.

FOUNDATION and ANCHORING REQUIREMENTS
1. Concrete shall have compression strength of at least 3,000 PSI and a minimum thickness of 4-1/4” in order to achieve a minimum anchor embedment of 3-1/4”. NOTE: When using the standard supplied 3/4” x 5-1/2” long anchors, if the top of the anchor exceeds 2-1/4” above the floor grade, you DO NOT have enough embedment.

2. Maintain a 6” minimum distance from any slab edge or seam. Hole to hole spacing should be a minimum 6” in any direction. Hole depth should be a minimum of 4-1/4”.

3. DO NOT install on asphalt or other similar unstable surface. Columns are supported only by anchoring to floor.

4. Using the horseshoe shims provided, shim each column base as required until each column is plumb. If one column has to be elevated to match the plane of the other column, full size base shim plates should be used. Torque anchors to 110 ft-lbs. Shim thickness MUST NOT exceed 1/2” when using the 5-1/2” long anchors provided with the lift.

5. If anchors do not tighten to 110 ft-lbs. installation torque, replace the concrete under each column base with a 4’ x 4’ x 6” thick 3,000 PSI minimum concrete pad keyed under and flush with the top of existing floor. Allow concrete to cure before installing lifts and anchors (typically 2 to 3 weeks).


Overview
upload_2022-5-21_8-36-26.png
 
Nick,
I looked for quite a bit before selecting my lift and went with a 12,000# capacity. With the weight of today's pickups, I figured a little extra cushion was good and the price wasn't that much more. Every time I use mine, I have a smile on my face thinking about rolling around in the dirt from days gone by. You will be elated knowing the creeper is mostly going to be a shop ornament!
One thing I did was make an adjustable leg to go in the receiver of the truck. It makes things rock solid. I put a red card over the controls so I don't forget to remove it when letting the vehicle down. I can take a picture, if you would like to see it.
Bud
 
When I started teaching the diesel class at the college they put in a 10k lift for me. If we were going to replace it I would go no smaller than a 12k. The 10k is pretty scary sometimes with a Mega Cab or one that has a bed full of stuff. You will want a high stand to place under the hitch for extra stability. Just remember to pull it out before lowering.
 
Looks good. Pretty much everyone sells everything they can make a $ on its all just pass thru and make a few bucks. I bought a sewing machine thru Home Depot.

4.25" is where the install guide has the pad.

Check this is the correct info but looks like 137"/138" (11.5') to the outside of the columns, and 116" (9.6') to the inside, but it shows some tighter stuff then that 116".

I really need to put a lift in at my place.

Good luck with your selections.

Pad
2.2 Surface Condition / Foundation & Anchoring The 2-post hydraulic lift should be installed on level ground. The foundation must be 4-1/4” minimum thickness concrete, with a minimum compressive strength of 3,000 psi. Failure to meet the foundation requirement may cause the lift instability or personal injury. Installing on asphalt, soft clay floor or near the expansion gap is prohibited.

FOUNDATION and ANCHORING REQUIREMENTS
1. Concrete shall have compression strength of at least 3,000 PSI and a minimum thickness of 4-1/4” in order to achieve a minimum anchor embedment of 3-1/4”. NOTE: When using the standard supplied 3/4” x 5-1/2” long anchors, if the top of the anchor exceeds 2-1/4” above the floor grade, you DO NOT have enough embedment.

2. Maintain a 6” minimum distance from any slab edge or seam. Hole to hole spacing should be a minimum 6” in any direction. Hole depth should be a minimum of 4-1/4”.

3. DO NOT install on asphalt or other similar unstable surface. Columns are supported only by anchoring to floor.

4. Using the horseshoe shims provided, shim each column base as required until each column is plumb. If one column has to be elevated to match the plane of the other column, full size base shim plates should be used. Torque anchors to 110 ft-lbs. Shim thickness MUST NOT exceed 1/2” when using the 5-1/2” long anchors provided with the lift.

5. If anchors do not tighten to 110 ft-lbs. installation torque, replace the concrete under each column base with a 4’ x 4’ x 6” thick 3,000 PSI minimum concrete pad keyed under and flush with the top of existing floor. Allow concrete to cure before installing lifts and anchors (typically 2 to 3 weeks).


Overview
View attachment 133712

So the anchor needs to be a minimum of 3.25" deep. Dang, I hope the rebar is lower than that. If not, that could be a real issue.

It also looks like a tight squeeze to get out the door? I would hate to have to push the truck the last few feet to line it up.

I checked on some 12k lifts but they all require 6" concrete and are way more money.

This Atlas might be a good choice. Extra tall and extra wide 10k, commercial grade, free shipping and free 12 pc truck adapter set. ($4200)

https://www.asedeals.com/atlas-oh-10x-extra-wide-extra-tall-two-post-lift/
 
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I would go 12k also. Even with a 3.5-4" slab it's not hard to cut a 2'x2' hole and undermine the hole and dig down a foot of so and add a matt if 1/2" rebar.
 
When I was shopping for a lift, I went to our local Chevrolet dealer shop and looked at what they had. I talked to one of the techs and got his opinions. After talking to him, I decided that the 12,000 pound lift seemed more appropriate for these pickups. I asked him about the clearance to get out of a vehicle and he said he just crowds the right side a bit. you may want to go visit some shops so you actually see what is out there and how they use them, if you haven’t already done so.
 
Nick, I bought my 10k from ASE Deals, they had the best price back then on the Bendpak I have. Drop shipped to my loading dock, easy peazy. And definitely need tall jack stands, I have 2 and use at least one every time the truck is up in the air. Bought mine at northern tool I think.

https://www.asedeals.com/

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641746_200641746?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Automotive > Jacks > Jack Stands&utm_campaign=Strongway&utm_content=46208&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIreG7pbD19wIVQBmtBh0SsADCEAQYASABEgKqzfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Thanks bc, ASE has the Atlas on sale that I posted, they have good reviews (ASE) It is $800 off right now. Everyone else is trying to spend my money (that I don't have) on a 12k lift:) All my rigs are smaller than the new truck, so most times 10k is more than enough. At about 8500 lbs for the new truck, 10k should still give me some margin of capacity. Those look like good jack stands, I didn't even think about them. I use Northern Tool a lot.
 
For total weight a 10K is plenty, but you need to make sure that the arms can hand the uneven weight distribution of a diesel pickup. As long as the arms can handle 2750lbs then you should be fine with a 10K, thou right on the edge of arm ratings.
 
We’ll, darn it Nick, you don’t want us to spend your money? Sorry, wasn’t trying to do that. What John says is very important, though. Each arm will have a 1/4 capacity of the lift. Whatever you do will beat the hell out of crawling around and using a creeper.
 
yeah good point John... My new truck is right at or just over the SPEC for the front arms on my 10k (all are rated at 5000) since it is heavier than my 04 was...either way, I do not get under it without the tall jack stands.
 
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