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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear spring shackles, check yours ASAP!!!!

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Living in the northeast we see our fair share of snow/ice and road salt. Well I guess 14 years and 241,000 miles took their toll on my rear spring shackles. I was backing out of my driveway this morning to go to work and hear a loud bang. I sorta dismissed it as my parking brake maybe was hung up or the rear springs were frozen (as we had an ice storm last night).



Stop to get a cup of coffee and notice the truck is low on the driver side in the rear? I jump under the truck real quick, sorta expecting to see a broken leaf, but to my horror realize the rear spring shackle had ripped itself into two pieces because it had rusted to badly.



I immediately called my local Dodge dealer (Dick Greenfield Dodge, super cool 24hr parts/service M-F) and they had the shackles in stock. I'm guessing its somewhat common occurrence, otherwise why keep them in stock? Anyway, I bought 2 shackles (passenger side is in same bad shape), 4 new bolts, 4 new nuts for a grand total of $165 with tax:



Shackles PN 52038664AB (new bushings already pressed in) $47. 25 each

Bolt PN 6504782 $10. 20 each

Nut PN 6402252AA $4. 50 each



Surprisingly, I could have reused my old nuts and bolts as they came apart without much difficulty at all. I did have to drive the lower bolt out of the old bracket, but not too bad at all. Took me 1 hour to do the driver side, the passenger side can wait til the weekend or until the weather gets a little better. I used generous amounts of anti-sieze on the install and torqued the bolts to 210ft-lbs per the haynes manual.



The bolt head is a T-60 and the threaded end of the bolt has a hex headed shank which is 11mm, the nut is a 24mm. I picked up a T-60 at the store, but never needed it. Just a 24mm open end wrench and a 11mm on the shank end of the bolt and I was able to get things apart no problem. Once apart I jacked the truck up using the trailer hitch to get the spring/shackle and bracket all aligned, then tightened things up loosely. Got the truck back on the ground and proceeded to torque to spec. I'll take pics of the process one the passenger side, I was rushing to get this done and beat the weather tonight, so I can get to work tomorrow.



I was shocked I was able to get things apart so easily. Here's some pics of the shackle. Passenger side is identical, except its in one piece still, not three. Luckily i wasn't loaded with anything or towing. I'd imagine that would not have ended well.



Chris
 
Thanks for the pics, I've been watching mine for a few years. Not as bad as yours but I think I'll replace just to be safe.
 
I kept my '88 Land Cruiser alive for 23 yrs with an annual undercoating of non detergent oil and WD40 50/50. Applied with a spray bottle. It works. I hope the new owner is keeping up the tradition.
 
i had a similar problem with mine. my drivers side leaf on the rear broke. right around the bolt. made a loud bang also. shackles are good . just the main leaf went.
 
Now that you have brought this to our attention... .



Son just called, brought his '97 back from Bangor tonight, gets out of the truck and notices that it is laying down on the right side.



Yep, you guessed it, right rear shackle snapped off from corrosion.



Everybody that runs in the winter road salt and calcium better be looking them over!!!!!:mad:



Thanks for posting part numbers, we are all going to need them. :-laf



Mike.
 
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okay so not the sharpest crayon at all times. I forgot where are sticky's at







2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC BD 64/71/14 SB-DD3600 TST PM3/SMARTY MACH 4'S, RINGS/STUDS, BIG STICK,SPRINGS,HTT 3 PIECE,AFE/2:eek: " 5" EXH GAUGES, FASS 150,DRAW-STRAW, DSS-BOX DT PRO-FAB TRAC BAR, CONV-T STEERING,BORGENSON BOX AND SHAFT,DUNKS TRACTION BARS, AIR BAGS,37" TOYO MT'S 6" RCD LONG ARM LIFT. . . THANKS RIP www.sourceautomotive.biz
 
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Same Here



one of my buddies was looking under my truck and pointed my almost rotted shackles out to me I still cant believe i missed it. took it to a shop and had them swap both of them out. i was able to assist what a pain in the behind. the bolts come in from the frame side so you have to unbolt the leaf springs from the axle and drop the springs low enough to remove the bolts what a pain it took 2 of us 3 hours for both sides.



good luck

Chris
 
Helped my son do his Saturday night, we studied the situation and after noticing how miserable it was going to be to pound the upper bolts out we elected to remove the body instead of messing with the u-bolts, etc.



With the shop hoist and the red wrench (torch) to help we did the shackles on both sides including body r&r and a fuel line repair in under 3 hours.



That is the way to go, even if you can't get the body off, at least get the rear of it picked up a foot or two so you can get the upper shackle bolts out.



Mike:)
 
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Damn! The photos in the opening post are downright scary. I guess both ends of the spring are very unlikely to rust out and fail at the same time but the shackle failure presents a potential loss of control situation that could happen at 70 mph in freeway traffic with traffic on both sides after hitting a crack or dip in the pavement. Very bad news.
 
As long as the truck is empty all you get is a little tourqe steer as the spring is still attached to the truck at the front hanger. The bad side will drop down 3-4 inches. The rear of the spring will come up under the body and stops up against a crossmember.



The worst thing about this is that you can't see the corrosion as the lower hanger blocks your view if you are looking up from a creeper. You have to jam your head in behind the fender liner and beside the leaf spring while sitting up on the creeper to see the rusty center section.



If you don't have fender liners or a rear bumper it will be much easier to spot.



Anyone in the rust belt..... with a mid to late 90's truck... ... ... ... ... .



****Check Yours Today!!*****



Mike:)
 
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The worst thing about this is that you can't see the corrosion as the lower hanger blocks your view if you are looking up from a creeper. You have to jam your head in behind the fender liner and beside the leaf spring while sitting up on the creeper to see the rusty center section.



If you don't have fender liners or a rear bumper it will much easier to spot.



Welcome to performing a DOT inspection.
 
EEK! that's an ugly picture and frightening thought. I'll have to give mine a quick look.

Thanks Chris. We're almost Hommies too - where you at in T-Town ?
 
As long as the truck is empty all you get is a little tourqe steer as the spring is still attached to the truck at the front hanger. The bad side will drop down 3-4 inches. The rear of the spring will come up under the body and stops up against a crossmember.



The worst thing about this is that you can't see the corrosion as the lower hanger blocks your view if you are looking up from a creeper. You have to jam your head in behind the fender liner and beside the leaf spring while sitting up on the creeper to see the rusty center section.



If you don't have fender liners or a rear bumper it will much easier to spot.



Anyone in the rust belt..... with a mid to late 90's truck... ... ... ... ... .



****Check Yours Today!!*****



Mike:)



Easiest way to spot it is too look in from the rear of the truck. Just look forward and up from the corner of the rear bumper on either side and the problem will be staring you right in the face. Might get to do the passenger side this weekend with pics. Weather looks to be agreeable.
 
Oh yeah! Try having one let go at forty-five on a bumpy mass highway. It didn't change the handling (the spring eye slaps up against the bed) but you're wondering what you just hit. Oh, and this is a noah's ark moment... always replace in pairs cause the other one ain't far behind!!
 
Thanks for posting this. I crawled under mine last weekend and found mine to be in good shape. The paint is flaking off and they have surface rust, but they're still solid. A pleasant discovery here in the salt capital of the world.
 
Just checked mine (152K)and there is significant rust but still solid. Will replace this spring. I tow a fiver and the last thing I want is the shackle to give way with that load in the back.
 
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