Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Rehash #11 and GSK kits

[krs]

I know that this issue has been around - I've read most all of the threads concerning the use of the #11 plate.



For my '98 12v manual I wanted to use #11 to avoid some of the smoke/breakage/EGT issues which I saw as coming with using #10, but I've also installed 3K GSK springs. I just want this truck to run sweet on the street at about 300 hp or less. I was having quite a bit of trouble getting the engine to run right - low power at low RPM, weird fuel cutoff right at 3000 rpm, and other problematic things that I don't remember now. It's why I did all the reading. I adjusted the governor lever up and back down over that huge #11 proboscis, and tried various depths of the GSK nuts. I'm so sick of taking all of that stuff off to get in there! A 14 ci turbo housing only makes it worse.



So I finally asked Mark at TST either to send me a #10 or give me their answer for this combination.



Mark wrote back "We do NOT recommend the #11 or the #12 plate with the GSK springs. You'll have no low end power".



Just like that. Thought I ought to pass it along.



(I'll be using #10)

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Some people seem to be scared of a #10 and a stock clutch, there is no issue here, you can slide the plate all the way back and make it run like a stocker.



Jim

 

[JJW_ND]

Put stock GSKs back in????

While the GSKs are a nice improvement for most trucks, 96+ 5sp can get by with out them.



If you want a nice running 300hp, clean idle, decent low end power, try getting the stock GSKs back in the exact setting they were stock.



The #11 is a great plate without the GSK.



If you feel that is not an option... I agree with Jim to go with the #10. Keep the plate back from center to control your power. This is a very nice plate. It it is still to much, you can adjust your throttle cable to keep you from getting full throttle. It is that last 1/4" of throttle that makes all the heat and power.



jjw

ND

 

[krs]

Thanks,



I changed the GSK springs mostly because I run back and forth between here and Calif. on I5 with a light trailer or only the bed loaded (less than 5000 lbs almost always) and wanted to hold 5th over the grades. It made sense, but I didn't know that the #11 just doesn't work well no matter what I do if those springs are in. I thought from what I could tell that it's just a tuning thing. Naturally I would be hesitant to take them out now so I'll use #10 and do the clutch by and by. It's inevitable anyway, and I'll like the result better after it's all finished.

 

[WadePatton]

rehash is better than no hash at all.

Thanks for bringing this up. I have a friend with a 96/215--and we've not started yet.



The 3gsk should be MANDATORY for the 160-180 pumps. I've put two of them on and be quite pleased with the results.



Yes, that last 1/4 of travel--can't really go there much, but then the truck moves pretty fast without it.



Don't worry about the clutch so much. A slip or two won't KILL it. When you slip it--notice that you were in a high gear with low RPM. Then remember to keep your R's up until you can slide the plate back a fuzz. easy.

 

[Bob Wagner]

test

 

[Deezul1]

I am running a #11 and a 4K GSK and havnt had a problems with that combo. Let us know how it works out.

 

[RHARVEY]

I started with the #11 plate and stock governor springs in my 215 pump'd 5 speed. Yes you can get by with the stock springs but it works so much better with a set of 3k springs. I didnt do the springs with the #11 plate. . as I look back now I wish I would have tried it. Mark may not recommend it because of the profile of the #11 plate but the #10 plate is another story all together.

I have finally found a combination(cam plate & springs) that really pulls well. Towing with the combination has been a

pleasure. Now when I leave a stop sign I can spin the motor a little tighter and still have full fuel.





Rick

 

[krs]

RHARVEY,



Mark didn't give me any technical reason why he didn't recommend #11 with springs, only that it would result in low bottom end power. There seem to be many strange and mysterious interplays at work when combinations of plates, springs, and turbos combine in ways not recommended (;

 

[Sleeper]

Not sure what you are looking for in the springs but I use them to cover the 3rd to 4th black hole when towing. Without the kit, I couldn't shift fast enough to catch the bottom curve. Works for me.



Sleeper

 

[SMorneau]

The 3 to 4 gap in the 5-speed would probably make me keep the springs and either find the right spot for a 10 or start grinding your stock plate until you get a profile you like.

 

[TPCDrafting]

I'm not sure what they're talking about with this no low end power w/ 11 and 3k gsk. I'm not having that problem at all. In fact that is where my stock clutch (with 112k) is slipping. Only when I really step on the go pedal when I up shift into higher gears like 4th and 5th as stated above. It takes about 1/2 a sec to dig in and the boost jumps to 30 psi and off it goes. I did do the gov lever adjustment and put the lever about 1/2 way up the lower ramp from the get go. Prior to the adjustment it ran pretty close to a stock plate.