2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replace Frame?

[icman95]

Well, here goes:



My baby is about 10 1/2 years old now and the road salt is starting to take its toll on the frame. There isn't anything totally rotted yet and certainly nothing that's a safety issue, but it's time to get rid of the rust and repaint the frame. If I don't have it done now, it will eventually get to the point where it's too late and I don't want that. I brought it to a body shop to see if it's a job they want to do and they said sure. My idea was to take at least the bed off, get rid of rust, and repaint it with POR-15. If the cab has to come off, then so be it, otherwise he can just try to work around it.



The shop guy looked around the frame, point out to me some rust damage that I hadn't even noticed and suggested that it would be easier and probably cheaper if I could find another frame that he could prep and paint and then just take the truck apart and reassemble on the new frame. He said he's done it before and part of his reasoning is that you never know what you're going to run into on my current frame. Once the bed/cab is off he could find much more damage than anticipated and that will up the cost. If he starts with a different frame already in decent shape, it would be little effort to prep and paint it.



I didn't say no to this idea. Actually, it's not so bad. I have a used truck parts place looking for a frame right now. He thinks he found one and I'm waiting to hear back. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Normally, I'd say there's nothing like having the factory bolt the thing together so that it's solid, no rattles, etc. I'm wondering if it's possible to do this and still have the truck ride nice, not rattle, doors seal properly, all that stuff. Any ideas?

 

[icman95]

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[HBarlow]

Replacing the frame as your body shop suggested is probably a better idea than simply repainting the one you have but I'm wondering how successful you may be in finding a replacement frame. A salvage yard frame would probably be difficult to find because most trucks that end up in a salvage yard have been in a severe crash that damaged the body beyond economical repair. The frame would normally be damaged as well.

Labor costs to disassemble, prep and paint the frame and reassemble the truck are going to be pricey. Why not a replacement truck from the southwest?

I would look for a high mileage Texas, New Mexico, or Arizona truck with a trashed Cummins engine. You could probably find one fairly cheap and it would be perfectly rust free. Install your engine and accessories and be on your way cheaper than all the rust repair.

 

[Ramtuf1]

At the rate my truck is going, I'm gong to be in the same boat soon. Upstate NY weather taking its toll on mine. Saw some metal hanging from underneath my truck the other day and found the front end of the fuel tank not supported and down an inch or two. It now has new fuel tank straps.



Have been taking care of rust piece by piece as in the doors etc. Just trying to hold off the inevitable. Hope you can solve your problem. Good luck. :{

 

[icman95]

Harvey,



Normally, you'd be right with replacing the whole truck, except for the sentimental value. There's really nothing wrong with the rest of it, body in good shape. Lots of new parts on it already. Brake lines, evaporator and heater core, too many to list. Get another truck and have to chase those demons again. Besides, another truck isn't MY truck. I want to keep mine going as long as possible. I'll probably cry when it's truly time to see it go-not yet.



I agree with the trouble in finding a good used frame. I have a parts place looking now. He knows someone who has one that had a cab fire. As long as the fire didn't overheat the frame too much, that's a good start. I'm waiting to hear back as the guy who owns it was going to walk out to the yard to take a closer look at it. If that doesn't work out the used parts guy is pretty sure he can locate one (I would hope from the Southwest like you said). As a last resort, there is a possibility of getting a factory new one for around $3k, however, that is a real last resort. The body shop was guestimating the job might be $5-6K with parts and labor. That's actually what I was hoping to hear. I think that's a fair price because to replace the truck with a new one is around $50K or more. Then I'd have to buy new accessories to fit that model year-5th wheel hitch, etc. Even a late model used one is what-$20-40k depending upon model year and trim levels? Another 2001 would be probably twice the price of the restoration job on mine if it was whole-no engine/trans probs, etc.



I think I'm trying to convince myself that swaping frames will work no problem. The shop said they've done it before, so that helps. One other thing that makes me feel better is that they had an older commercial truck cab in the yard so they've obviously had some experience taking trucks apart. Also, one of the guys there was wearing a Peterbilt ball cap and drives a diesel pickup, though not a Dodge. Seems to have diesel in his blood like we do. Better than showing up at-oh say-a Macco and having a kid just out of body school driving a suped up Civic with a wing on it.

 

[HBarlow]

I understand the sentimental value of your truck as well as not wanting to get rid of your cab.

With your goals in mind, if your parts guy is unable to locate a frame another possibility might be a truck with a trashed engine in the southwest. Buy it cheap, haul it home, remove the cab and install yours then sell off the unwanted parts piece by piece. A running Cummins engine is the value of an older Ram truck. If the engine is trashed the rolling chassis and cab might be sold at a modest price.

 

[mwilson]

Just sitting here being an armchair quarterback,



I would tackle that project if it were mine in my free time and not be too worried about it. I work for myself cheap.....



Paying someone to do it for me is a whole other ball of wax.

The body shop has done them before, i'm sure and can most likely get it together.

I would want to make sure that they had a very high skill level and were as fussy as I.

If they slap it together you are going to have never ending issues so I would ask to see some of their finished jobs and get a few customer names as well.



Have you anticipated other expenses because things will show up that really should be changed while they are "right there". . For example you will want new cab mounts at the least.

That stuff will add up fast and that is fine as long as you are prepared for it.



The rust free southern donor truck option may be something to look at as well, how good a shape is your cab and body really in???

If the frame is flaking away I am wondering about the underside of the sheet metal as well.



Just a few thoughts for you, it is a big decision.



Mike.

 

[budnate]

I have done it, it's pretty easy, the biggest hassle is lifting the cab carefully... we used 2- 4x4;s through the cab with the doors off and two little hvac Genie lifts I had at work. cut slits in the 4x4's for the cab metal edge that holds the door rubber on the cab so you don't fold it over, main wiring harness unplugs at the firewall, fuel, grounds. . misc and it's ready



we cleaned, painted and rebuilt as needed... all the running gear swung into place easy, actually went really fast with nothing in the way, took a couple weekends... if your fast with some help and don't want to touch anything it can be done in a weekend.

 

[TBurow]

i have a frame and cab for sale from a 96 2500 extended cab 4x4 clear title

 

[icman95]

I appreciate all the feedback and advice. The main reason I'm not doing it myself is that I have nowhere to do it. I have no barn and my two bay garage is small enough that it fits my motorcycle and tools on one side and barely my Jeep Wrangler on the other. No room for a dually. My wife's Durango doesn't even fit in. Also, it's amazing how we don't know what we don't know. The body guy pointed out some hidden rust that I would never have picked up on. Even though I did a scaled down version of this on my Wrangler last year (didn't remove body-rust wasn't too bad) myself, I'm probably not the most qualified person to do the work on a heavy duty truck.



I'm glad to hear that it's easy and quick. Makes me think that it will go back together like a puzzle and just fit fine.



Mike, the bed and cab are in really good shape. The frame isn't to the point where things are falling off or anything like that. I'm trying to prevent it from getting to that point-where it becomes unsafe for the heavy hauling I use it for. Armchair quarterbacking is exactly what I was hoping for in this thread. Having ideas thrown at me make sure I don't miss or forget anything. I absolutely intend to use this opportunity to replace anything else under there. Body or engine mounts, etc. Like you said, might as well while there. I guess by the time it's done, I'd pretty much have a new truck.



TBurow-love to take you up on that offer, but apparently only years 2000-02 are compatible with each other. Not sure why. My buddy had a 98. 5 and it seemed identical to me, but Chrysler says only those years are the same. Thanks anyway.

 

[GAmes]

I just finished lifting the body off the frame of a '54 Ford Skyliner I am restoring. Not the same as a pickup cab and bed, but close. I think you should pin the shop down on the labor charges. Not only are you swapping the body, but also the engine and drivetrain.



Also thought I'd give you a possible source. There are part out trucks galore on this site. 98. 5-02 2nd Gen All Products - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

 

[JMcCoy]

I am almost positive the 94-02 frames will interchange. I would do what you originally set out to do. Remove what rust you can, wipe it down with acid, and coat with it POR-15. POR-15 is an amazing product. You just need to top coat it wherever the sun might hit it since it is uv sensitive. Also don't get it on you. The can says once dry, no solvent will remove it. That includes your skin. I still have some on my arm from a week and a half ago LOL. If you have really bad spots, just add plates or gussets. While in there I would box the frame for added strength and rigidity.

 

[icman95]

I just finished lifting the body off the frame of a '54 Ford Skyliner I am restoring. Not the same as a pickup cab and bed, but close. I think you should pin the shop down on the labor charges. Not only are you swapping the body, but also the engine and drivetrain.



Also thought I'd give you a possible source. There are part out trucks galore on this site. 98. 5-02 2nd Gen All Products - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Holy Cow! There's a ton of stuff there. You could practically build a whole truck just by cherry picking a little bit from each seller. I looked at each one of the 20 pages of stuff for sale. Lots of trucks being parted, but few with frames intact. Some were rearended, some frontended, one hit on left by a car going almost 100 (at least that's what the seller said). Thanks a bunch, though. I saw some other stuff I might like.

 

[painekiller]

dont know if its what you are looking for but i have a 01 quadcab 2 wd 3500 frame from florida that is solid rust free still have the original paint and stickers.



cab is also for sale

 

[HBarlow]

That would be a perfect solution for me if I was the buyer.

The TDR can always provide!

 

[AEdelheit]

Well I do know the front suspension mounts on a 2wd vs. 4wd are different, A-arm IFS vs Solid axle so that would be a lot of cutting and welding if you have a 4wd.

 

[icman95]

Doug,



Harvey's right. That's exactly what I had in mind. I don't know anyone with a 2wd, though, so I don't know much about them. Mine is 4wd. Do you know if 2wd and 4wd frames are the same? Maybe the only difference is if they actually bolt a transfer case to the frame, maybe there are other differences. I wonder if the 4wd frames have brackets on them for the transfer case that might not be on the 2wd frames. How'd you come across this one?

 

[icman95]

Well I do know the front suspension mounts on a 2wd vs. 4wd are different, A-arm IFS vs Solid axle so that would be a lot of cutting and welding if you have a 4wd.

Sorry, I didn't see your post when I replied. I answered from my email link. I guess that is the kind of info I was looking for.

 

[surfbeetle]

Don't forget the DMV paperwork that is involved with this. You are basically assembling a vehicle from the parts of two. Make sure your replacement frame is clean and find out what your dmv requires.

 

[AEdelheit]

Don't forget the DMV paperwork that is involved with this. You are basically assembling a vehicle from the parts of two. Make sure your replacement frame is clean and find out what your dmv requires.

Why would they even have to know?????