So there I was... Shopping for a new truck

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

I'm not going to make excuses. I did something stupid somehow I lost traction and all control of my vehicle and hit the barrier. I'm unsure if they are going to try and total my vehicle as of right now.

This brings up a lot of questions like how they value the truck and how I value the truck considering I've owned it for 15 years and have meticulously cared for and upgraded almost every part of the truck.

That could be a battle.

I should hear back from USAA and a few days regarding that status but in the meantime I am preparing for the worst.

I have some things that I would like some help considering when it comes to another truck.

My 2004.5 2500. She made me proud and maybe she still will. If she can't go on any further because of my stupidity I'd rather than enjoying my 5.9. I'm not against hearing arguments about the 6.7 aside from the fact that with each passing year there's more electronics more emissions bull crap and I also hear that the 6.7 got a high output version some years later and that's probably too many years later. Pros and cons of this as well as maybe taking it back to the 12 valve.

The older the truck the more difficult it is to find things for it and the newer the truck the more electronics the cram into it. This is why I think the third gen to be a nice sweet spot from what I understand 2007 and younger here's your clear of the problems of not being able to use certain oils like the diesel marine oil and I also was really looking forward to getting into biodiesel from algae. I also run a little bit of jet a in there sometimes. I kind of like the mega cab secretly always wishing that I would have gotten one and I understand that the automatic is faster but have found myself sometimes wishing that it just had a darn six speed. With all that in mind I find myself looking at 2005 2006 2007 mega cab transmission unknown. Not against the 6.7 but I want to steer clear of Def and I certainly didn't mind having my exhaust be a 4-in empty tube with a ceremonial muffler.

What kinds of UPS downs and problems do we have with these vehicles?

Is there a point where if I hit a certain year I might as well just get one that's really new?

Do we have some resources for being able to find trucks like ours good condition decent price? Currently in the Tampa area or at least I'll be stuck here for a little while longer long enough to buy a truck but I don't think traveling for the red vehicle is necessarily a problem.

Depending on what my insurance says if they do want a total the truck and they try to lowball me on it I wouldn't mind seeing some examples of trucks and that your range that have been well taken care of I've seen them as high as $20,000.

Stick versus auto. 5.9 versus 6.7. going newer than I currently am versus maybe even going older than I currently am. When did they bring in the mega cab and in that particular zone are there any years to avoid that may have had some issues or that maybe have ******* children such as my 2004.5?

This is a lot of information to look up in a short period of time and I thank you for allowing me to crowdsource some of this information. I'll add the battle damage pictures a bit later on. I don't know if I feel more like a monster or more like an idiot for what I've done to my beautiful truck. Both I guess.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Without seeing under the bent parts, it may not be that bad.

I'm not sure how your insurance and your state works if you put a claim in and they say the repairs are more than the vehicle is worth, is it too late to retract the claim and have it fixed on your dime cause if they total it and you buy it back, you surrender your title and you get a pink "salvage" title back. Depending on what they offer for the buyback is in the numbers.
Then you fix it and go through a special safety inspection to restore the title.

As an example, I totalled a 29 rat rod that I had $25,400 insurance on it.
I bought it back for 6k. Got a check for 19,400. Fixed it myself and came out ahead a few grand.
As far as the pink title.. well with those old crs you just buy a title and re-register it. Not in your cards though. You would need the special inspection.

And if you want you keep it that bad, see if you can have it fixed on your dime without using insurance.
Depends on the difference between getting another vehicle used and things it may need.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

They're saying that it's totaled.

What they're offering me is criminal but I understand the way insurance policies around here work they're offering me something they call actual cash value which kind of exists in a vacuum because I can't argue that point with somebody who sells me a truck so they're not giving me enough money to replace the truck.

The head gasket was recently done and the head studs alone were the $625 horsepower studs that cost 1800 bucks. The rear bumper is custom fabricated by yours truly I don't even know how to put a value on that but it has backup lights on it and everything in the front bumper I believe that was about 1500. It has an air dog it has probably around $700 worth of differential and transmission covers on it the entire front end was recently redone with the Mopar t-steering upgrade the hubs were redone every bearing in both of the front axle forward drive shaft and rear drive shaft were all redone. It has the steering box brace it has the edge it has the smarty it has the Carly track bar which is 600 bucks by itself. I have an aftermarket intercooler I have a mishimoto radiator. Of course both of those got killed.

I'm probably going to try to go out shopping in the local area just to see what kind of trucks might be available to me I'm not sure if I want to try to prove that my truck is worth more based on all of these things but they're essentially offering me half the money I would need to replace the vehicle.

This is why I was asking questions about probably the third generation of vehicles not to exceed 2007 any problem years manual versus Auto and any other anecdotal knowledge that we have collectively here when it comes to what I should be looking for.

I'm probably going to try to negotiate with them a bit but if it comes down to it I will retain certain items. Wonder how difficult it would be to get those head studs out, the guy that I had to do my head gaskets put them in there by accident I was supposed to get the $500 head studs he put in these spectacular head studs that are apparently made out of wolverine's bones or something.
I fed this truck for 15 years and have been putting my signature on it. I'm not happy about what the insurance company is trying to boil things down to I'm just trying to make the best out of a bad situation which means I will be truck shopping this weekend and I wouldn't mind a little feedback.

 

[Topzide]

I'm sorry to hear what you're having to deal with. But with insurance, if you didn't have the upgraded items listed on a separate rider describing their valve, you don't have much lead way! At best, if they'll allow you to remove said items and still give you the same "cash" value, I'd say you're lucky! Did you inquire about buy back?

 

[Yo Hoot]

Then ask about the buyback. How much will they charge for you to buy it back cause since they totalled it, before you get the check they want the truck. Goes to wholesalers.
Negotiate your best, buy it back and you get a check for the difference. Might be enough to go a long way in repairs.

 

[bigceltic]

Not sure if it will help but when I got my transmission replaced/upgraded I called my insurance company since it was a big chunk of change and they said to keep the receipts as in case of accident it would be included in the assessment of damages. How much? Who knows, but you may have some room to negotiate.

 

[Tuesdak]

I also was really looking forward to getting into biodiesel from algae.

First and foremost I assume you are OK and no one else injured. That is all that really matters. Frankly the vehicle is expendable and can be replaced. Maybe repaired.

I would contact some body shops and get a couple of estimates. Insurance likes to "air bag deployed = totaled."

I would also look at prices for comparable pickups for sale. Let them know with receipts the new front end and other work and parts.

We went to the extreme to have a 2002 GMC Yukon rebuilt after it was rear ended, with serious injuries to the driver and passenger from the seats collapsing. The rear frame rails were replaced as they not only bent but were tearing at the bends. End of the day we couldn't find replacement seats and after all the work was done it was totaled. We went through the same low ball offers until we presented "for sale ads" that showed what amount would take to make us "whole". We had repainted it and rebuilt the front diff just prior to being hit.

Last your truck got word about you wanting to feed it Unicorn Farts, Biofuel, and ended it... Seriously there is an extreme risk using Biofuels that can become suddenly very expensive as you gamble your fuel injection system and engine. Today the diesel fuel I get at the pump is at the OEM Biodiesel limit of 5% for my 2018 RAM due to law requiring it. I can't even get off-road red generator fuel without Biodiesel contamination. The Bio reduces storage life and adsorbs more water into the fuel that allows bugs to grow in the fuel. Bugs that cause expensive problems! At least consider the risks that is glossed over in the Unicorn Rainbow land. In depth of my experience and dealing with ignorance from the supplier who ain't in business anymore (Good Riddance!) link below.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ulsd-and-biodiesel-exposed.248698/

If you look at a 6.7 you want the ones with the DEF. The DPF equipped ~2007-2012 were trying to meet 2013 emissions early and were lots of soot choked trouble. You couldn't give me one of those years for FREE! Having owned a 2003 with a MT and now a 2018 Ram Cummins: I find it's cheaper to own the 2018 due to the "Payment at the parts store" the 2003 needed. My 2018 has better power and comfort with a warranty.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

First and foremost I assume you are OK and no one else injured. That is all that really matters. Frankly the vehicle is expendable and can be replaced. Maybe repaired.

I would contact some body shops and get a couple of estimates. Insurance likes to "air bag deployed = totaled."

I would also look at prices for comparable pickups for sale. Let them know with receipts the new front end and other work and parts.

We went to the extreme to have a 2002 GMC Yukon rebuilt after it was rear ended, with serious injuries to the driver and passenger from the seats collapsing. The rear frame rails were replaced as they not only bent but were tearing at the bends. End of the day we couldn't find replacement seats and after all the work was done it was totaled. We went through the same low ball offers until we presented "for sale ads" that showed what amount would take to make us "whole". We had repainted it and rebuilt the front diff just prior to being hit.

Last your truck got word about you wanting to feed it Unicorn Farts, Biofuel, and ended it... Seriously there is an extreme risk using Biofuels that can become suddenly very expensive as you gamble your fuel injection system and engine. Today the diesel fuel I get at the pump is at the OEM Biodiesel limit of 5% for my 2018 RAM due to law requiring it. I can't even get off-road red generator fuel without Biodiesel contamination. The Bio reduces storage life and adsorbs more water into the fuel that allows bugs to grow in the fuel. Bugs that cause expensive problems! At least consider the risks that is glossed over in the Unicorn Rainbow land. In depth of my experience and dealing with ignorance from the supplier who ain't in business anymore (Good Riddance!) link below.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ulsd-and-biodiesel-exposed.248698/

If you look at a 6.7 you want the ones with the DEF. The DPF equipped ~2007-2012 were trying to meet 2013 emissions early and were lots of soot choked trouble. You couldn't give me one of those years for FREE! Having owned a 2003 with a MT and now a 2018 Ram Cummins: I find it's cheaper to own the 2018 due to the "Payment at the parts store" the 2003 needed. My 2018 has better power and comfort with a warranty.

To answer your question as well as everyone else's I don't know if repairs are going to be feasible they might be I'm going shopping this weekend for some trucks that I've seen in the area you're the only one that really touched on some of the years and some of the pros and cons it's good to know about the older 6.7 I don't think it's worth the extra 25 horsepower especially considering with upgrades they are pretty much equals except the 5.9 would be much more reliable at least mine has been extremely reliable.

I'm liking the third generation options I'm looking at 2005 2006 2007 didn't know if there was anything I wanted to stay away from I wouldn't mind finding a mega cab and it also wouldn't mind hearing from people that have opinions on automatic versus manual in these trucks.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Additionally yes I have considered going for a much newer truck as well. I may even look at some of the Yukon with the Duramax because that's what the wife wants drive that around for a bit until I can find my Valhalla truck.

I even considered going older and to the land of OBD nothing.

 

[GSP7]

Racing a Lamborghini or a Tesla?

#ad

 

[bigceltic]

I'm liking the third generation options I'm looking at 2005 2006 2007 didn't know if there was anything I wanted to stay away from I wouldn't mind finding a mega cab and it also wouldn't mind hearing from people that have opinions on automatic versus manual in these trucks.

I have an 06 5.9 Megacab and an auto and have towed (first a 3500lb pop up, then my current trailer) all over (mostly through the CO mountains!) and the auto has been fine and very reliable. I did upgrade the solenoid to a GM style and never had any issues (always used Amsoil synthetic fluids and added an external filter as well). I did change my trans at 180K or so, but not because I needed it, but because I wanted to (always wanted the tapshifter). I added an Exhaust Brake a while back and recommend having one. As far a reliability goes, it has been great - no real issues - I have replaced injectors twice (once at 113K due to a mechanics error I believe) and again at 206K or so. I had a rear main seal go on me, but that was due to not having driven it during the covid crazy times. Finally, I had to replace my blend doors (and did the heater core and Ac bits at the same time) at around 205K. It is my daily driver as well. A Smarty really wakes the engine up.

 

[Tuesdak]

Additionally yes I have considered going for a much newer truck as well. I may even look at some of the Yukon with the Duramax because that's what the wife wants drive that around for a bit until I can find my Valhalla truck.

I even considered going older and to the land of OBD nothing.

GM hasn’t learned anything after their Olds Diesel put Lemon Laws on the books. They still think they can design a automotive diesel engine and ignore any help from experienced diesel engine designers. Even ignored advice from Detroit Diesel when they owned em… The 6.6L Isuzu was an exception to their usual arrogance only because Cummins in the RAM and International in Ford was taking their 6.2/6.5 disposable diesel's lunch money. If the 3.0L's over complicated low bidder coolant valves don’t jam up and limp mode it… It has several other short life items like a rubber band oil pump drive running in hot oil. The 3.0L I6 in house diesel has been a nightmare of coolant valve problems making them shop queens. Even the EcoDiesel GM had a hand in designing was a Zero or Hero engine.

You are better off with a gas engine from GM in the Yukon ... If GM can get it to run as our 6.0L GM LEMON chokes to death on it's own hot air and doesn't run worth a damn.

If you are spending that much on a diesel Yukon you might as well just get a new RAM Cummins and call it a day. Or swap letters and get a WAGONEER as you really can't tell the difference between it and a Yukon until you get close enough to read the large friendly letters.

 

[Grumpy8811]

if I ever buy another HD pickup, it will probably be a Ford ( as much as I hate to say that word) with the large gasoline fueled V8 and the ten speed trans.

 

[User113]

Then ask about the buyback. How much will they charge for you to buy it back cause since they totalled it, before you get the check they want the truck. Goes to wholesalers.
Negotiate your best, buy it back and you get a check for the difference. Might be enough to go a long way in repairs.

That is not a bad idea if you have enough gumption.

The wholesalers don't pay insurance companies hardly anything for totaled vehicles either, so you can buy it back real cheap, probably less than your deductible. They will just subtract that from your claim payment, you just pay to get it home. Then you can transfer your known parts into a donor body, or pay to have your truck fixed, or fix it yourself.

Note that the adjusters are always leaning towards totaling a vehicle out because of the unknowns that still exist. In fact, they hardly ever do a very thorough inspection. Remember, if USAA pays to have your vehicle fixed, USAA will also guarantee the repair. Because USAA would much rather not take on that additional risk, they are extremely quick to just total it out.

I did that with my Jeep Liberty CRD a few years back. That's also why I cancelled my full coverage years ago.

 

[slowmover]

With any vehicle, new or used:

How long will you keep it?

How many miles in that time-frame?

Make an honest assessment and work the numbers.
Adapt these tools to your situation:

https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/true-cost-to-own-tco.html

https://exchange.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/AAA-Your-Driving-Costs-2019.pdf

As most in/near major metros appear to drive 98% of miles without trailer and also feature an empty/near-empty truck bed, a 1T pickup wasn’t a good choice in the first place.

I’m all for sentiment re vehicles.
Until it shoots us in the foot.

Work the numbers angle also is what I’m trying to say. Future regrets sold or restored can be kept in check by also looking at money & time as a balance.

If I’m only going to keep it five more years . . . and it takes me two years to get it acceptable? How much money per mile did that entail? (Versus alternatives).

As it’s also: no time to find a wife. Visit my elderly uncle. Take a job out-of-state. Etc.

Good luck.

.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I've had my 04 since brand new. I still have the window sticker. I would be pretty upset if I was in this situation. I have a lot of years, time working on it and money spent. At 20 years old, it's cool to be the original owner.
The thought of having to go newer on a Cummins or any other diesel for that matter is frightening to me. The emissions junk really turns me off.
Do I need a diesel? Not really. I do have four different things I tow including a car trailer and a pontoon boat but none of those require the smoke and rattle of my Cummins. I just love diesels.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

Racing a Lamborghini or a Tesla?

#ad

Honestly no. Normal driving. I still have no idea why I went perpendicular so easy. My ABS light has been intermittent but I have slowed down harder than this before. It was a shock honestly.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

I have an 06 5.9 Megacab and an auto and have towed (first a 3500lb pop up, then my current trailer) all over (mostly through the CO mountains!) and the auto has been fine and very reliable. I did upgrade the solenoid to a GM style and never had any issues (always used Amsoil synthetic fluids and added an external filter as well). I did change my trans at 180K or so, but not because I needed it, but because I wanted to (always wanted the tapshifter). I added an Exhaust Brake a while back and recommend having one. As far a reliability goes, it has been great - no real issues - I have replaced injectors twice (once at 113K due to a mechanics error I believe) and again at 206K or so. I had a rear main seal go on me, but that was due to not having driven it during the covid crazy times. Finally, I had to replace my blend doors (and did the heater core and Ac bits at the same time) at around 205K. It is my daily driver as well. A Smarty really wakes the engine up.

Thanks for the info! Now that we have power back on after a couple hurricanes I submitted all my upgrade parts. Just parts without labor was twice the original payout. I have no idea if they will want to fix it now or just increase the payout. I have owned this truck for over a decade and have upgraded and customized so much over the years. I have mixed emotions about letting it go. When am I ever going to rebuild my top end with $1200 head studs or superseded rockers or have material fall on my lap to make sweet rear bumper with back up lights? At the same time, she has been a money pit from the word go compared to friends trucks like mine so she was turning in to my white whale.
Awhile back this place in Arizona had a lot of these trucks for sale without rust and in good condition. That was like 13 years ago when I was getting this truck. What I am seeing now is that trucks just like mine are selling for the same price I paid for mine with an extra 100000 miles tacked on. Guess there is something to say there.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

GM hasn’t learned anything after their Olds Diesel put Lemon Laws on the books. They still think they can design a automotive diesel engine and ignore any help from experienced diesel engine designers. Even ignored advice from Detroit Diesel when they owned em… The 6.6L Isuzu was an exception to their usual arrogance only because Cummins in the RAM and International in Ford was taking their 6.2/6.5 disposable diesel's lunch money. If the 3.0L's over complicated low bidder coolant valves don’t jam up and limp mode it… It has several other short life items like a rubber band oil pump drive running in hot oil. The 3.0L I6 in house diesel has been a nightmare of coolant valve problems making them shop queens. Even the EcoDiesel GM had a hand in designing was a Zero or Hero engine.

You are better off with a gas engine from GM in the Yukon ... If GM can get it to run as our 6.0L GM LEMON chokes to death on it's own hot air and doesn't run worth a damn.

If you are spending that much on a diesel Yukon you might as well just get a new RAM Cummins and call it a day. Or swap letters and get a WAGONEER as you really can't tell the difference between it and a Yukon until you get close enough to read the large friendly letters.

Yes I am seeing this in the Yukon/Tahoe. The thing is that I have to work and my wife is the one that needed a new car for the longest. That and 3rd gen Rams that check all the boxes that I can essentially start over with are harder to find that just getting what she wants. That and not being sure about older VS. newer as I am no fan of new trucks. Nothing against them, just not a fan so I have some thinking to do as I may also need to have a 3rd car while I whip the new to me truck into shape. Disappointed to see that they stopped making the 2500 Tahoe/burbans as a 12v would sit neatly in a 90's 2500 and maybe this one when it gets older.
Not ruling out the Toyota SUV's either. Kind of sucks that they offer the Cummins in the Pickup but not the the Sequoia or 4Runner.

 

[3rdGen_to1stGen]

I've had my 04 since brand new. I still have the window sticker. I would be pretty upset if I was in this situation. I have a lot of years, time working on it and money spent. At 20 years old, it's cool to be the original owner.
The thought of having to go newer on a Cummins or any other diesel for that matter is frightening to me. The emissions junk really turns me off.
Do I need a diesel? Not really. I do have four different things I tow including a car trailer and a pontoon boat but none of those require the smoke and rattle of my Cummins. I just love diesels.

It's like you are reading my thoughts. I actually feel like a monster for letting this happen. I was not the first owner but 13 years is a long time for it to become "my" truck.