Speaking of electrical gremlins..I have some rearing their heads....

[Doc Holiday]

First off the warning panel lights... wait to start, brake and water in fuel all come on when you turn on either of the a/c's or the defroster.



Secondly the right rear brake light stays on most of the time. FIXED



Thirdly the horn doesn't work.



Fourthly the power locks don't work.



Fifthly the Cab lights don't work. FIXED



Checked the fuses and/or bulbs on all problems the are all good as is the horn relay and the blower switch.



All help is appreciated.

 

[Philip]

Did you check the body grounds like a stated in your other post?



All the symptons you list could be caused by bad body grounds. Most of the time when you have multi electrical problems. They can be traced to bad grounds. Electric will take the shortest path to ground. If the designed ground has a bad conection. It will go threw other circuits. Causing all sorts of wierd issues.

 

[bmoeller]

What he said.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Sorry guys I forgot all about the other post.



Where are all of the body grounds at?

Is there anywhere aside from dodgeparts.com online to find the FSM?

 

[Philip]

The neg battery terminal has a 10 gage wire going to the raditor support. The terminal is srewed down to body paint. Remove the wire and sand the paint out from under it.



The dash ground are located to the right side of the column behind the OD switch. Drop the panel out from under the column and look behind the OD switch and you can see the connection.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Ok guys I checked both grounds the underdash ones look great I even used the old radio ground as a second ground.



The underhood one was on the paint so I got a wire wheel and the drill and removed the paint then screwed it all back down.



Neither one of these helped the problems nor did checking the orange fusible link as mentioned in my other post... sorry I forgot about it.



I did however figure out the lights staying on all the time, the brakelight switch wasn't touching the pedal

 

[Philip]

Darn I was hoping the body grounds would help. LOL



On the horn. Check the rag joint in the steering shaft. I normaly just hook one side of some jumper cables up to the steering shaft. One end on each side of the rag joint. If the horn works then the rag joint is bad. Just make a jumper wire up and bolt it from one side of the rag joint to the other side. This is a common problem with Dodges going back to the early 70's.



The marker lights wiring runs down the drivers side under the trim plate holding down the carpet. Remove the trim plate and see if one of the screws went threw the wiring harness. I used to see this all the time when I was working in auto repair field.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Any other ideas?

 

[Philip]

You want to go on a road trip north of Indy about 1. 5 hours?

 

[Doc Holiday]

Sorry Phillip I really can't make a road trip to get it fixed... as of right now it has no overdrive, which is one of the other problems I am dealing with or trying to..... the pump is all new and the tps looks as new as the pump. I thought the transmission was hurt when I got the truck but I changed the fluid and flushed it and it looked good and operates better now. I thought it might be the speed sensor but from what I have heard if that goes out the speedo doesn't work... . I am not even sure I can say it works as it thinks 32 mph = 0 mph but it still moves and such. So I have no overdrive and it isn't real keen on highway time right now.

 

[DValentine]

Doc, I have a thought on the speedo/overdrive... . as I think they are related. I might be all wet here but I think that the two are related. On my getrag, there is a gear box coming out of the transmission, that changes mechanical motion to an electric signal. I think this may be the problem, that is if your automatic is set up the same way.



Some one else would know more about this than me... ... just some thoughts





Dave

 

[smithy]

whats up doc,ok, its been my experience , under the hood drivers side fender well near the hood hindge, fuseable links,the orange one,don't test it with a meter, because it will show 12 volts,replace it,i've had two trucks drive me crasy with a meter, i cut the fuseable link out and stripped the insulation off and it looked like it had welded itself together a number of times,12 volts but no amps,replaced the fink with a new one and no more troubles,same trouble you talked about above,hit the ac and lights come on. as for your no od trouble, od switch failure,if this happens the failed switch gives a signal to the smec not to shift to od,or smec could fail,check codes,or a blown fuse,or od solenoid failure,or faulty wiring,or failed od clutch,or low od pressure,or lower valve body ,or,or, ok, hope this helps

 

[Philip]

Well I might have to make a road trip sounds like. With as many problems as your having it is going to be long and involved trying to do a long distance repair. Hands on would be better.



Let me get my FSM back from another member.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Smithy where did you get the fusible link from? Just any parts house or special part?

 

[Philip]

You can get bulk fuse wire from any "good" parts store. Just know the size you are wanting. It comes in different sizes just like regular wire. NAPA sells it by the inch.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Hey Phillip I am gonna try to get my Chrysler buddy to figure out the overdrive stuff this weekend. I may need your help with some other stuff though. I tried jumping across the steering column and the horn still doesn't work.

 

[Philip]

Let me know Doc if he gets it straighted out.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Is it possible for the tps to not hunt at all? I have no attempts by my transmission to shift into overdrive, the motor is turning as hard as it can when it tops out at what I believe is around 68 mph. Speedo thinks 32 = 0 and it stops pulling at 100 on the speedo. I am wondering if the tps is the problem or if is something else, I tried locking o/d out and there is no change in top speed or rpm's.

 

[Philip]

There is a bunch of things that came cause a OD to not work. TPS bad, Bad connection on the TPS plug, bad connection at RPM sensor plug, RPM sensor out of adjustment, PCM plug connections bad, OD solonid bad in trans or bad wiring to it. Thats to name just a few things.



Explain the speedo comment better.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Whenever the truck key is off no power to anything keyed the speedo reads 0 mph like it normally should. Whenever you turn the key on the speedo goes straight to the first hash mark past 30 mph on the gauge, I presume it is in 2 mph increments as I haven't actually looked that close at it. Anyway when the key is on it thinks 32 = 0 mph even when you are stopped, the highest speed you can get as per the speedo is 100 mph before the pump runs out of rpm's which I think is actually like 68 mph or so. Also whenever you turn off the key the speedo falls slowly like it is "spinning" down.



I thought maybe it was shifting and I just wasnt feeling it or it had a huge gear in it and just wouldn't run any faster but I tried the o/d switch numerous times and it will not shift or hunt at all.



Hope that explains it well enough.