Here I am

Speaking of electrical gremlins..I have some rearing their heads....

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Crewcab's going back to the body shop

Anyone have a clue what this pump is??

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Thats helps Doc. Lets see what your friend can do. Then we can go from there. I think the speedo problem is caused by something else. The speedo is controlled by the PCM. Eather it is sending a signal to show speed or something else is bleeding cross circuit and doing it.
 
Well here is the deal after my buddy looked at the truck.....



The TPS is part of the O/D not working the other part is whomever put in the brake controller scotch locked the neutral safety wire to a power wire which was telling the PCM that the transmission was in Park/neutral therefore it won't allow O/D to engage in either of these gears..... makes sense to me anyway it is kind o fixed he has the TPS working but is ordering my new one Monday so as it stands now we have O/D.



He also told me to check for a spring that is missing on the trans kickdown and to make sure it is adjusted right I will do that on Monday at work.



The fuel gauge problem is the fuel sendeing unit... simple enough



The speedo problem he says is the speedo it's self and he told me what the speed is when the gauge says 90 it is really 60 so I am looking for a new speedo



The power locks still don't work and we didn't even look at them and the lights on the info panel still light up when the blower switch is on high and an A/C compressor position is choosen.



I also have a leaky #1 injector but I am not gonna jack with it until I can buy some POD's or something like that



I am happier now that it goes into O/D although there are still some issues to address none is major. Hopefully a month or so from now the BOMBING will commence. :) :) :) :) :) :)
 
Doc Holiday said:
I also have a leaky #1 injector but I am not gonna jack with it until I can buy some POD's or something like that



I would reconsider the injector, if by leak you are refering to it leaking into the combustion chamber, that is a good way to get a burnt piston.
 
In addition to checking the actual body ground connection check all of your terminal connections and crimps. I have found most of mine corroded so you will end up chopping off some wire and relugging / re-crimping with new connectors. Check all of your plug connections - I have found two where there was partial corrosion to ground internally through the plug itself.



As an example, I cleaned up all of my connections on the rear wiring harness (i. e. cut out and soldered the wires together) and rear lighting voltage went from 9 VDC to 11. 85 VDC with Battery voltage at 12. 25VDC - yeah I am still dropping . 4VDC in 24' of wiring but until the entire wiring is replaced this will be acceptable. . . . . and the brake and turn signal lights are a lot brighter!



The wiring systems on these older trucks are pretty primitive and . . . . durabiliy past 14 years / 400,000 miles is going to be very iffy!
 
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