Spyntec or Yukon free spinning hubs?

[RVTRKN]

OK, here is my take on these two free spinning hubs.

First I'd like to point out that Dynatrac claims no guaranty that they will fit my C&C. They have a disclaimer as well as customer service hasn't a clue. I called them and they had to get back to me, just to say not sure. They recommend disassembly to prove what size drive/u-joint I have, so that eliminates them, and they were my first choice. Also you have to purchase a separate DRW hub for the DRW 3500

Spyntec seems like a good quality hub assembly, but I don't like the way the spindle bolts to the knuckle. They are threaded into the spindle and are (seems to me shallow) shallow. Also they claim for a need to return your old DRW hub assembly as core charge, so they can use the OEM to fabricate another for sale.

Yukon is the better choice in my opinion, because the way the spindle is bolted to the knuckle. The unit is relatively easy to repair and readily available if service needs to be performed. Also an expected Summer mail in rebate for $200.00 on a kit that seems to have the best price even without the rebate.

All opinions welcomed.

 

[AH64ID]

I went with Yukon because the lockouts are strong, thin, and default to 4wd if failed, and because they use off the shelf D60 parts.

 

[brods]

Does the Yukon kit use ujoint spacers? If so make sure you use them RVTRKN. The EMS kit's stub shafts are for dana 60 ujoints did not come with spacers for the shorter aam joints back when I bought the kit. As a result the EMS kit ate front ujoints. Also, what material is the Yukon wheel sensor block made from? The EMS kit on my truck has aluminum sensor blocks. The right side keeps destroying wheel sensors by corroding in the bore and crushing the sensor. This has occurred yet again despite drilling the sensor hole larger and slathering it with dielectric grease. I guess making a steel block or instituting an annual sensor pm (removal and bore cleaning) would be a solution, but is pita that should not have to be done.

 

[EDankievitch]

I've used Dynatrax and SpinTec on a bunch of trucks. Both have been quality products. Both company's have offered very good customer support. Spyntec has a deal for TDR members and there was a discount at one time it's well worth a call to find out if it still applies.

 

[RVTRKN]

Both good points!

AH64ID, that was something I didn't know, or even think about with the default position. Its good to know that in a failure it would be still 4X4 capable.

brods, It will be installed by a competent shop, for I don't have the capability to do it in my drive way. My HOA would be all over me and possibly get fined for doing it. Truck is too big for garage. I do have a large indoor storage unit where I keep my boat, but tools would be an issue and I would have to set it up with a generator and my tools. Its just easier to have a shop do it. Also I believe the kit comes with the necessary shims it will need, with the Yukon kit. I'll contact Yukon Gear and Axle to find out if the sensor block is steel or aluminum, unless AH64ID can chime in on that issue.

 

[RVTRKN]

I've used Dynatrax and SpinTec on a bunch of trucks. Both have been quality products. Both company's have offered very good customer support. Spyntec has a deal for TDR members and there was a discount at one time it's well worth a call to find out if it still applies.

I contacted Geno's garage, they didn't mention discount, but they did check on availability and apparently Spyntec had one available, but they showed back ordered for the kit at the time. I still have issues with the way the spindle is bolted to the knuckle. It may be perfectly OK, but I have reservations about it. I did see that the ring tone block is machined in with the spindle vrs inserting a block.

 

[Wayne M.]

My Spyns are 6 years old. No problems. I don’t like the hub turn around/ core deal however. That’s new. If I would have to do it all over, I’d re research from the start.
FWIW, mine are the old long snout, and truly use D60 parts (including the outside shaft) except for the axle seal, which is a one off.

 

[brods]

Wayne, I assume your kit came with the ujoint spacers? Last time I looked Spyntec didn't show them in the pictures of the kit but did have them in the written instructions. I almost pulled the trigger on the Spyntec kit recently with the justification I could resell it in a few years when the truck is dead. It just makes more sense to limp the truck to the end with the crappy kit thats on it now.

RVTRKN, even if you have a shop install them, review the instructions, familiarize yourself with the parts in the kit and request anything not used from the kit (or all the parts) be returned to you. By now all the freespin kit suppliers should have all the bugs worked out, but better to find out the kit is missing a part or has incorrect parts before dropping the truck off at the shop. My kit had a miss-drilled spindle and the abs sensor blocks needed to be clearanced because the hubs rubbed on them.

As for a shop doing the work, way back on this forum there was a post about poor customer service from an offroad shop that installed a Dynatrac freespin kit and left out one of two stub shaft seals or dust boot on each side. When questioned about the left over parts the shop told the customer they were extra parts that were not needed and sent him on his way. He wound up pulling the hubs and installing them himself rather than driving the several hours back to the shop. When it comes to ba.stard AAM parts, or custom aftermarket parts, its better to play it safe and not just assume that every shop knows everything they need to know about them. Especially the ujoint spacers. Driveline shops think you are crazy for even asking about them.

 

[Wayne M.]

brods, which kit are you having trouble with?
Yes on the thin U joint spacers. I didn’t experience any fit or quality issues whatsoever. I rate my kit 9/10. Not perfect because of the long stubs (they came out with the kit right after I pulled the trigger) and I had to cut down my knuckle attaching bolts. No mention in any literature. Caught me off guard.

 

[brods]

Back in 2007 I installed an EMS kit. It was a cobbled together affair using re-drilled ford spindles and dana 60 parts. It was pretty butch. I've always wanted to upgrade them, but really no point anymore.

 

[RVTRKN]

brods, I checked out the EMS kit and it is not impressive, but the price is about $250.00/$300.00 cheaper.

 

[brods]

Back in 2007 I think the only choice was $$$ Dynatrac or the cheaper EMS kits. I haven't really kept up with all the kits the last few years. I think the EMS kit has improved somewhat (ie no more 5 hole ford spindles re-drilled to match the Dodge 4 holes). From what you've posted, the hassle and/or extra charge for the DRW makes the Yukon kit look the most attractive.

 

[AH64ID]

I am pretty sure the wheel speed sensor blocks onYukon are aluminum. I didn’t have any corrosion issues, but not much corrosion around Boise on anything.

 

[RVTRKN]

I'd imagine the dry climate here in Vegas wouldn't have issues. However I might just get over the threaded hubs with Spyntec, as the ring tone sensor is machined into the spindles. I'm still not ready for purchase, I have to wait a week to transfer funds to purchase them, so I have a little time. I like the $200.00 rebate with Yukon though.

 

[MGreer]

If you haven't tried them yet give randys worldwide a call. They can answer any questions you have about the kits. I've bought rebuild kits form them in the past and they were great to work with. They were formerly randys ring and pinion.

 

[Wayne M.]

I always default to Geno’s, only for the fact that they don’t/ won’t carry junk, and they’ve had Spyns for a while now.

 

[RVTRKN]

Ya, I like Geno's as well, it weighs on my mind to get away from them, when it comes to my CTD. However that $200.00 rebate is tempting. The shop that will perform the service, supports the fact that I'll supply the part. I just figured they would want the sale, but thats why I return for their service.

 

[Wayne M.]

RV, when it comes to aftermarket stuff like this, they’d rather you do the choosing so if there’s a problem, you own it, unless they gave shoddy labor.

 

[RVTRKN]

Not this shop, they are professional and thorough, I can expect a proper install regardless of kit I buy. I was recommeded to them from TDR member MMeir, back in 06, as I pulled into Vegas, with a terrible vibration that wasn't easy to find. They spent more time identifying the u-joint causing the vibration then it did to replace it, but they only charged me the time to replace it. I'm not worried about the shop.

 

[Razorhunter]

RVYRKN,
Do you or anyone else here have a recommended page where I can better understand this "threaded Spyntec hub" issue you're referring to? I'm new to this and trying to understand just what the worry/concern is here as I just dont know enough about this yrt, to make an informed opinion on the matter.
I too am soon going to be faced with this decision of Spyntec vs brand X and appreciate any info you guys are posting!
Mine is an 04 2500 SRW
I know looks arent everything, but to me, it is a factor. I've seen some pretty grotesque looking hubs sticking out FAR on some guys trucks so that issue alone had me looking at the latest Spyntec shortys. Oh, also the fact that Spyntecs appear to be some of the best priced, at least compared to a couple others I've priced.
I wish there was a way to get good up close comparison pics of how far brand x vs brand y with regards to stick out/protrusion.
Further, why no mention of the redrilled Ford hubs from RamMan? Are these total trash not to be considered?