Spyntec or Yukon free spinning hubs?

[Ozymandias]

Now we see about the different prices why.
My Dynatrac Kit was entirely pre-assembled, no more to do then fix it to the knuckle.

 

[AH64ID]

I don’t recall the size of the press I used for my studs, but it wasn't small and it was a CHORE!

When I had to replace a spindle, bearing issue, I had Yukon send the warranty item with the bearing and studs pressed in.

If you don’t think you’ll use the press for other jobs I’d return it and have a local shop do some pressing.



It would be nice if Yukon would assemble their hubs pre shipping, but even having to assemble them it’s worth their kit. I don’t recall of the reasons I didn’t like the other kits, but there were several.

 

[RVTRKN]

They were my first choice, but there is the extra cost for the dually hub, which requires a separate purchase from another vendor. They also wouldn’t guaranty they would fit my C&C, per their website and customer service. It’s no big deal to press in races or studs, it’s just the way I’ll have to do the inner race. I just went through my boat trailer and used a sledge hammer and a race driver set, it worked great. I realize the bigger races are more challenging, but a 12 ton press should work.

Now we see about the different prices why.
My Dynatrac Kit was entirely pre-assembled, no more to do then fix it to the knuckle.

 

[Wayne M.]

Now we see about the different prices why.
My Dynatrac Kit was entirely pre-assembled, no more to do then fix it to the knuckle.

That’s correct. I did take mine apart to inspect, however.

 

[Wayne M.]

You don't think the 12 ton press isn't enough, it sure seems to me to be adaquite, of coarse I'll know soon.

Here at the job, our 25 ton will do anything that’s needed on that size chassis. Chuck those races in the freezer the night before, and you’ll be fine.

 

[RVTRKN]

Thanks for the suggestion, maybe I’ll through the hubs in the oven as well.

 

[Ozymandias]

For the studs on another project I used a Balljoint C-Clamp Tool, went in like a charm.

 

[RVTRKN]

Ok, I ordered just the race/seal driver I needed for the inner race, to go with my set I already have. Now it’s a mater of waiting for every thing to be delivered

 

[Razorhunter]

I dont know how much you paid for the bearing race driver, but worst case, you could've had any local machine shop turn down a pressing slug for you. I do it all the time since I sold my lathe. (Biggest mistake ever btw as arbor/hyd presses and a lathe go hand in hand) My local machine shop would charge me $60 min for an hour labor, and sometimes if they take a liking to what I'm doing, they'll only charge me $20 for a quick little job.

 

[Razorhunter]

I dont know how much you paid for the bearing race driver, but worst case, you could've had any local machine shop turn down a pressing slug for you. I do it all the time since I sold my lathe. (Biggest mistake ever btw as arbor/hyd presses and a lathe go hand in hand) My local machine shop would charge me $60 min for an hour labor, and sometimes if they take a liking to what I'm doing, they'll only charge me $20 for a quick little job.

 

[RVTRKN]

Don’t cut the rotors. I wouldn’t be surprised if you couldn’t find a place to do it anyway. Get some mid range/ premium low dust pads n rotors. It’s all from China now anyway.

I bought Bosch rotors at O'Reillys for $98.00 a piece, the rotors are too big for their machine, otherwise they would turn them for $15.00 a piece. It works for me anyway, I'll be able to assemble the hub and rotor as prep work before teardown.

I dont know how much you paid for the bearing race driver, but worst case, you could've had any local machine shop turn down a pressing slug for you. I do it all the time since I sold my lathe. (Biggest mistake ever btw as arbor/hyd presses and a lathe go hand in hand) My local machine shop would charge me $60 min for an hour labor, and sometimes if they take a liking to what I'm doing, they'll only charge me $20 for a quick little job.

I bought it on Amazon for $20.00, so it wasn't that bad. Unfortunatly for me I'm new to Vegas, so my knowledge is limited to the internet. I do know a couple of people here, but they are on the opposite side of Veags Valley, and it is big. They are finishing up on a major construction job on Interstate 15, that can cause a lot of traffic. I would of done that very thing, or even better, I'd of gotten it for free, if I were still in Comifornia. Thats the price we paid to escape.

 

[RVTRKN]

Got the studs in, as you see in the picture, I went through the threaded holes for the rotor. Note the 3/8 extension with two deep well sockets opposite of each other. I used Mercury 2-4-C marine grease with Teflon, went in like butter.

 

[Razorhunter]

Always glad to see someone escape crazyland. That's for sure.

 

[RVTRKN]

Ok I have grade 8 bolts (5/8-11) for the rotor to hub, and no torque spec from Yukon. Contacted them and they linked a standard chart. Grade 8 at 5/8-11 shows up to 210 lb ft, I plan on 100-125 ft lb. What are the opinions here?

 

[Wayne M.]

Ok I have grade 8 bolts (5/8-11) for the rotor to hub, and no torque spec from Yukon. Contacted them and they linked a standard chart. Grade 8 at 5/8-11 shows up to 210 lb ft, I plan on 100-125 ft lb. What are the opinions here?

I’d get closer to what the chart says, plus blue loctite.

 

[Ozymandias]

Go with what OEM says would be my Favorite.

 

[RVTRKN]

That’s the problem Ozy, there is no OEM spec for that. The rotor floats as OEM, with new hub it’s bolted to it, so there is not an OEM spec for it.

 

[Ozymandias]

Ups, sorry for that.
I misread and thought you were asking for the 4 spindle bolts.

 

[CUMMINZ]

We installed Yukon kit maybe 8 years ago and love them.

 

[RVTRKN]

I ordered on Tuesday the 14th, and I'm still waiting on the 3.813 race and seal driver, that Amazon is taking their sweet time in delivering. Hopefully I can start the install on Saturday.