2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering Wheel Clunk / Rattle : Solved With Column Bushing Fix !

[LRWatson]

Steering column bearing

Let me know if you produce this bearing for sale. I'd like one, and thanks for sorting-out this problem for all of us. Lee

 

[ProspectorTim]

It is for sale, and he is a TDR advertiser.
Check out his site at http://www.rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

 

[SFrey]

installed one of davids bushings last night, great product, have a slight problem though. took the column out of the truck, removed the old worn out stuff, dressed the inner column up, greased it, installed the new bushing, supported the automatic lever at the end of the shaft while installing the bushing, installed the column back into the truck. started the truck,moved the wheel side to side everything was great. grabbed the auto trans lever to back out of the garage, and no gears. checked to make sure the arm that goes to the trans was hooked up, it was. had wife move the shifter leaver up & down and the arm on the end of the coulmn at the firewall dosen't move. what went wrong ?



scot

 

[ProspectorTim]

Scot, I just sent you a Private Message with my phone number. Call me.
I can help.

 

[DBazley]

Gosh, scot, I just read your post. Sounds like you did all the necessary steps I recall from the auto trans trucks I've done.



The last two pages from the "factory procedure" we included have a step by step of the 'column re-installation' procedure - I assume you double checked all that ?



Now, if I just had an auto truck, instead of my manual, I could be a bit more helpful, as I could 'compare notes' more directly with you. Sorry that's not the case !



It should be something simple..... maybe Prospector Tim could chime in... . (he's been inside those auto columns more than most of us have) and give his . 02 c worth.



So, to clarify, you mean you move the column shift lever & no movement happens at the 'shift collar lever' (that has the grommet into which the shift linkage fits) on the firewall side ?



Thanks, David



PM me any details you wish or call the number on the instructions, we can talk... .

 

[Turbo Thom]

Oh, that's easy. You beat it to hard. That's always the answer.



Seriously, the connection where the lever contacts shaft seems to have broken. I don't think anything you did, it just happened.



. . Preston. .

 

[ProspectorTim]

Oh, that's easy. You beat it to hard. That's always the answer.

Yup, that is the correct answer. Give the man a gold star.
It don't take much pounding to collapse the shifter column. The good news is, it is fixable.

I just talked to Scot, and I bet he has it fixed in no time.

 

[Turbo Thom]

Gosh Tim... ... ... ... ... . You've just made me so happy. The only time I ever got a gold star was in sunday school when I was 4. Now 59 years later I get another one. Excuse me while I go out in the front yard and dance and scream. I'm just so excited.



But you're right, the columns are very flexible. Once I saw what I had done, it wasn't much to get it back into place.



. . Preston. .

 

[SFrey]

column is fixed and back in the truck,put two 3/16 pop rivets in lower part 180 apart from each other. steering feels great, but i still have a wobble up and down. found it to be where the shaft goes into the toe plate. need to look into this.



scot

 

[DBazley]

Hi Scot:



Glad to hear you fixed it. Sounds like Prospector Tim's 'rivet fix' worked on yours as well, good deal ! - Thanks Tim for helping out ! -



I think you are describing an issue with the lower column movement 'within the toe plate'.



Here is the TSB which describes & fixes it with a 'retrofit MOPAR toe plate' which affixes over the stock toe plate; applies to trucs build BEFORE Dec 31st, 1996:



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-13-97.htm



Hope this is applicable to your situation - looks like any easy fix - I checked Dodge parts, this 'retrofit toe plate', (which tightens the sloppy fit, where the outer column is loose within the OEM toeplate) is still available to order, assuming you identify this as your issue.



Glad your steering is tighter, too !



Best Regards



David Bazley

 

[CTD12V]

David,



Do you happen to have the part number for the new factory intermediate shaft you installed? I am in the process of replacing my steering gear and discovered the splines on the steering coupler of my intermediate shaft are very worn, causing a lot of slop.



I called the local dealer and the parts man gave me the following number for a new intermediate shaft: 55351114EE. He wants $187. 00 for it :-( If I am going to pay that much, I want to make SURE I'm getting an improved part.



I can't wait to get this part taken care of and then install the new column bushing that is sitting patiently in its box ;-)



Thanks!



CTD12V

 

[DBazley]

CTD12v,



Sorry I don't.



I just know that I gave them the part # I got from my AllDataDIY parts list, and it was followed by 2 or 3 superceeded part numbers, so they keep updating it - which is not a guarantee of a 'stronger, improved part', but at least a suggestion.



I did examine it at the parts counter, my impression was that it's a well made, strong part. It had this advantage over my $$$ Borgeson shaft, it actually glides in & out smoothly. Rotational play was minimal - maybe 1 or 2 degrees - just enough to allow smooth operation.



It was only $ 155 at Carl Burger Dodge, La Mesa (San Diego), CA parts counter.



I just checked now, and they quoted me the same part # for your year truck you just gave, as well as the same price, $ 186 actually.



Maybe an online MOPAR parts source would help you with a better price ? Here's two:



www.ArcherDodge.com

www.MakeitMopar.com



They're sponsors at DodgeTalk.com and reputable.



If your splines are messed up, it may be your best option !



I wish you well,



David Bazley

 

[ProspectorTim]

Hey y'all,
In case anyone is looking for a cheap replacement or even just a "spare" column to play with, you can't beat this deal on ebay.
96 Ram Automatic Steering Column has been listed & re-listed several times with an opening bid of only $20. THIS time, it is only $9. 98 opening bid!

Somebody grab it; I don't need anymore "spares" in my garage. But it sure is tempting!

 

[CTD12V]

CTD12v,



Sorry I don't.



I just know that I gave them the part # I got from my AllDataDIY parts list, and it was followed by 2 or 3 superceeded part numbers, so they keep updating it - which is not a guarantee of a 'stronger, improved part', but at least a suggestion.



I did examine it at the parts counter, my impression was that it's a well made, strong part. It had this advantage over my $$$ Borgeson shaft, it actually glides in & out smoothly. Rotational play was minimal - maybe 1 or 2 degrees - just enough to allow smooth operation.



It was only $ 155 at Carl Burger Dodge, La Mesa (San Diego), CA parts counter.



I just checked now, and they quoted me the same part # for your year truck you just gave, as well as the same price, $ 186 actually.



Maybe an online MOPAR parts source would help you with a better price ? Here's two:



www.ArcherDodge.com

www.MakeitMopar.com



They're sponsors at DodgeTalk.com and reputable.



If your splines are messed up, it may be your best option !



I wish you well,



David Bazley

Thanks David,



After calling another dealer in town, talking to two different parts people, and plugging in my VIN in their database, they said that the number the first guy gave me is for a 2WD, even though he asked me if I had 2x4 or 4x4. They are saying the number for a 4x4 is 55351113AE, if I remember right. And it is only $137. Huh? So they are bringing one down from Denver for me to look at. We'll see.



CTD12V

 

[DBazley]

CTD12v:



I think the intermediate shaft is the same, 2 wd or 4 wd, least ways they all look the same. I think they modified it, improved it then combined all the years into one updated #.



It might help to ask whatever parts guy is helping you if there are different # intermediate shafts, and if they all update - 'superceede' to a single # that fits many model years.



Or if not, can he spell out or show you what the differences are, for curiosity sake if nothing else.



Just a thought !



Regards,



David B.

www.RockSolidRamTruckSteering.com

 

[CTD12V]

Well, unfortunately my lack of time/needing to get the job done resulted in me just buying the shaft without checking into it deeper. After I got it home I looked at the part number stamped on it and it was the same as the one that came out of my truck, which does not match the one they listed for me. So, I probably just got suckered in to buying an old, outdated shaft. Sorry I failed to get to the bottom of this for the enlightenment of everyone else. Thanks for the suggestions, David.



BUT, the good news is that I was able to get the new bushing installed, in truck, without a whole lot of difficulty. I have the manual transmission, so it was simple. I couldn't get a good shot at the retaining ring with the cutoff wheel on my Dremel, so I ended up just using a cordless drill to drill a 7/64 hole in the ring. That weakened it enough for it to pop loose without having to punch it with a screwdriver.



The metal bearing cup came out easily with a long nose pliers. I had to tap harder than I expected when installing the bushing, but it seated all the way. Of course, snaking your arm down in there and swinging a 5 lb. mini-sledge in that confined space makes it feel like you're hitting pretty hard, even though it probably isn't anywhere near as hard as if you had the column out of the truck. I used a Teflon dry lube on the inside diameter of the bushing, and there are no noises and the steering isn't stiff, so hopefully that will stay like that.



This has all been pretty well covered already, so I don't think there is anything more for me to add. If anyone wants any pics, I can try to load some.



Thanks for a great product and instructions, David! And thanks to everyone else who had input, suggestions, and research on BOMBing yet another Dodge component! :-laf



CTD12V

 

[benhall]

I don't think my truck is having this issue at 60k, but it's like installing the dss with only 8500 miles on the truck. These improvements early are good little insurance policies. I will be doing this bomb when I get back to the states in January, as it's tough to work on my truck when I'm 9 time zones away from it.



Ben

 

[DBazley]

CTD 12V:



Good to hear the install went well - glad you're happy with the result !



I wouldn't lose any sleep over the 'intermediate steering shaft' concerns. IMHO, the stock Dodge part works just fine, is more than strong enough to last a good while in our trucks, and doesn't have the tendency to sieze up due to grit, etc, like the aftermarket shafts - especially the Boregson, which is simply too tight (and therefore, prone to siezing up when road grit makes it's way into it's sliding joint) to stay working smoothly in the long haul.



BTW, if anyone has figured out a bombing way to mod the Borgeson shaft - that is, to disassemble it & install a zerk & new, tougher joint boot, rendering it smoother & less prone to seizing, I'd love to hear of it.....



Best Regards,



David B.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Hi David, yesterday I did the bushing install on my '96 manual along with David Ratcliffe as he did it to his '01 manual. We both now have steering wheels that are way too stiff to turn. I know we didn't exactly check fit beforehand, so I am wondering what you'd advise to help this. Before popping the bushing in we cleaned the internal shaft and had them clean & smooth. We used a little grease on it too. Was this good or bad?



There is way too much wheel resistance, I would like it to be equal to what it was before the upgrade, if that's within the realm of possibility. As it is now the wheel hardly moves back toward center after making a right or left turn in town. I've driven 150 miles, mostly in town, since I put it in and the resistance has not diminished at all. It seems worse in the day with the temp in the mid 80s.



I don't mind pulling the column again, I couldn't believe how easy that was. . . only took 10 minutes to jerk it out and 15 to stick it back in



One thing I found during this project (besides my Borgeson steering shaft to be seized up) was the shaft going into the steering box slides in and out 1/2". I don't suppose this is normal, and I think that is what's causing some of the clunking sensation I'm still having after the upgrade. I'll bet that could be the source of some guys' clunking sensation.



Thanks for your efforts on taking an idea and making it work well. There's been a need for this sort of remedy for years, and you're the first to have seriously gone after it.



Vaughn

 

[ProspectorTim]

Vaughn:
Mine was too tight too. Here is a fix:

Update:
I took the bushing out yesterday. It took about a pound of dry ice, a big screwdriver and another pry bar - and a bucket of sweat - but I got it back out without pulling the column.

I hand-sanded the inside and the outside of the bushing until I could push it almost all the way in without ANY hammering. When I was happy with the fit, I sprayed it inside and out with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector and re-installed it. A couple of LIGHT TAPS with the ratchet handle sent it in the last 1/4". It drives SO much easier now! If you ever had a power-steering belt break and had to drive a week before getting a new belt - that is the best comparison of my recent experience, except this was worse.

I think someone already mentioned this before, but I'll point it out again anyhow.
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. WD stands for Water Displacement. It also cleans and protects metal and loosens rust, but it is not a lubricant. Well, I go to reading the can (I do that every now and then), and the same can be said for Amsoil Metal Protector. It is everything BUT a lubricant. However, Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector IS a lubricant.



I keep both kinds in my shop, but you can be sure I'll grab the RIGHT can for the project from now on. LOL