Think twice before getting a one piece driveshaft....

[R.Taylor]

Before ordering one online check with your dealership parts department... List price from Dodge is $696. 90 but they'll let them go for $552. 00. I've seen them online from $490 to $570 and that does not include the $50 to $65 shipping charge. I just ordered one today... . I'll have it Monday along with about $50 more in my pocket Oo.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I got the same one for my 03 but of course I had to shorten it 1. 5" and rebalance. It has been probably the best mod I've made to my truck.

 

[kblranch]

I did the same ^ works great. Cost $100. 00 to shorten.

 

[CDonaldson]

I got my 1-piece from an internet dealer, saved about $50 more than you did, and that price also included shipping. They CAN be had for right around $500 shipped. I can say that it made a BIG difference over the two piece shaft, knowing what I now know, I would have paid more just to have all those 2-piece nightmares ended.





CD

 

[HBarlow]

What is the advantage of changing to a one piece shaft?

 

[rscurtis]

It eliminates the need for a hanger bearing, and corrects the U-joint angularity problems which can lead to launch shudder. It is virtually impossible to have the angles on three U-joints cancel the vibration, but is much easier with two. The aluminum shaft also has larger U-joints than the stock 2 piece assembly.

 

[JKreiss]

What is the advantage of changing to a one piece shaft?

In my case, the twisting vibration during launch was chewing up the carrier/ center support bearing. I replaced two of them in 40k miles. The new drive shaft is the one they are using on the 09+ model long beds i believe. Mopar part, beefy as heck, no more vibrations or shudders on take-offs. I had a good drive line shop shorten it by an inch and change. If you figure it cost about $250 when all is said and done to replace the OEM setup it's a great upgrade.

 

[Lordsman]

My middle u-joint was tight, the middle bracket was worn out and had a bad case of launch and slow down shudder. Went to the 1 piece and it is very smooth on take off, etc. . It also was a cause of drone noise that I noticed especially climbing mountain grades, and that's gone too. I agree with Prairie Dog, "best mod done".

 

[BIGNASTY]

When you say launch is this a race thing? So (dont take this wrong) if I have a stock HP and drive like it was intended the two piece would do fine. I have replace the U joints in mine one was a little STIFF and not to get caught out far far from home I just replaced the hole Chitter ree. Work's fine for my app.

 

[JFought]

launch
like moderate throttle and you get a shutter (like concrete seams at high speed)
mine did it till 30ish mph (moderate or max throttle) (straight acceleration, no tire spin)
one piece fixed it all up. carrier was shot but when i added up all new joints, and a carrier it wasn't to much more to go to the 1 piece

 

[BIGNASTY]

Never had anything like THAT BEFORE. I must be getting old I just ease into the truck when pulling and when im not pulling the TT I just drive. (im not saying you do ) but I have nothing to prove with the truck it's stock

 

[p-Bar]

that shaft seems like it would be be long for a 2wd? no problems?

 

[rashwor]

I am with you Big; I tow but I rarely ever launch under moderate or heavy throttle. Truck handles the loads well launching at low idle.

 

[JKreiss]

The rubber surrounding the bearing is what wears out causing the shudder, as with anything driving habits do play a role. However the one piece design is far simpler thus allowing less problems. Crawl under your truck and take a peek, it's often overlooked. I can say from experience that once it's shot, you'll hear and feel it.

 

[BIGNASTY]

The rubber surrounding the bearing is what wears out causing the shudder, as with anything driving habits do play a role. However the one piece design is far simpler thus allowing less problems. Crawl under your truck and take a peek, it's often overlooked. I can say from experience that once it's shot, you'll hear and feel it.

I will agree with you on the wear of the Center bearing rubber. When I dropped the drive line to replace the U joints ( One was kind of stiff) and replace them with one's that I could add grease to once in awhile . I looked at the C Bearing and noticed that the rubber wasnt the best in the world. So not to have to RE DO down the road just replaced it also. Didnt last as long as one mite think. But thats how they get ya. Same for the no maint, front wheel bearings. How did we ever get by with wheel bearings that you had to repack No improvement except removing money from your wallet

 

[Prairie Dog]

In my case the shutter had nothing to do with how hard I take off. Even the non-throttle take-off starts that our manuals do caused lots of shutter. I drive very conservatively anyway ~ so slow that my mom told me I "drive like an old person".

 

[tkerrigan]

I replaced mine about two maybe three years ago, eliminating the three joints running at cross purposes much of the time, reduced horse power losses and improved fuel mileage a little. Just the weight savings alone helps on acceleration. There was two degrees radial alignment difference between the front and rear u joint on the two piece. I imagine the two piece was built true, but some good cummins torque probably put a 1 degree set in each shaft. If you want to check your own just put a degree checker using a socket for a spacer on each u joint cap pointing down. I have a rack so was able to roll the truck until rear read 90 degrees, then read center at 91 and front at 92.

Tom

 

[Herman8r]

I was thinking about changing to a one piece shaft--but the driveline builder told me it would be a mistake due to the fact that I tow 12k+ with my truck.



He also told me the u joints they installed were not the kind you could grease. He said they had a higher tolerance. I would think he would know--they do a lot of off road racing drive shaft set ups.



that being said--I still have a slight shutter when I inflate my air bags over 30 psi (empty load). I lowered the center bearing 1 " & that helped some.



Still wondering about the one piece shaft.....

 

[tkerrigan]

If you get the dodge late 2008 dodge drive shaft, remember they are rated to tow more than ours. I towed my 13,000 lb sunnybrook to Las Vegas and back and it was a pleasure. The outfit that shortened my drive line also recommended using the nonlubeable joints also. They also recommended not changing them myself. They rebalance each time and the glue in type must be used. If your truck has a G56 it doesn't need shortened. The 5600's are longer than the G56. Tom

 

[seafish]

If you get the dodge late 2008 dodge drive shaft, remember they are rated to tow more than ours. I towed my 13,000 lb sunnybrook to Las Vegas and back and it was a pleasure. The outfit that shortened my drive line also recommended using the nonlubeable joints also. They also recommended not changing them myself. They rebalance each time and the glue in type must be used. If your truck has a G56 it doesn't need shortened. The 5600's are longer than the G56. Tom

Tom, do you have the oem part# for the one-piece driveshaft to fit a



2005 4x4 QC LB G56



TIA