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Towing a little pickup

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I'm wanting to build an A frame hitch for my little Mazda to go to the back of my semi trailer or Dodge. Just around county roads near home. Do I need to secure the steering wheel or front end? Going to go from both the Mazda frame rails to a ball coupler. Thanks for the help, just didn't want an experiment to go terribly wrong.
 
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Good point! I suppose I need to leave it turned on or almost to keep the wheel unlocked. All I knew was that when they tow a pickup (tow truck) backwards they strap the steering wheel to keep the front from going sideways.
 
It's also a good idea to keep the towed vehicle's engine running to keep the transmission lubricated. You didn't say if it's an automatic or standard, either way

a good idea.
 
We pulled a little Mazda behind some bigger trucks where I used to work. It had a manual transmission and was pulled many thousands of miles. I don't recall what we did about the steering lock but the wheel definitely needs to turn. It was terribly hard on the front end of the little Mazda. Steering parts and front tires were constantly being replaced and the steering was still the loosest I've ever driven. I'd say a tow dolly would be the way to go.



Scott
 
I pulled a Suzuki Samuria around as a farm vehicle for three years and have been pulling a Geo Tracker for the past 6 months or so. I just leave the key in so the steering doesn't lock and put the transmission in neutral although for the Geo the manual says to leave the transmission in 2nd and put the transfer case in neutral. I'm not pulling mine over a few miles at a time usually and it's generally at slower speeds. I haven't finished wiring them yet but I got a diode kit so the Tracker's tail lights can be hooked into the tow vehicles' lights and I should add safety chains to make it legal. I welded some 3pt hitch ball sockets from a farm supply store to the front of the frame for the hitch to attach too. The hitch itself is made of 2x2x1/8" and 2x2x3/16" tubing. I get alot of funny looks pulling this around but it sure beats walking home.



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Thanks for the picks, that's exactly what I'm talking about. I'd only be in the 2-10 mile range of towing, mostly at low speeds. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
I towed a '73 VW "Bug" many thousands of miles. At first I towed with steering wheel unlocked, and front tires free to turn. However, on tight turns sometimes they would lock "hard-over" and not straighten out. Another negative was that with the key in the ignition and unlocked, the ignition was "on," and the battery would drain down on long tows. I put in a battery disconnect switch, but finally just towed with the front wheels locked and tried to make gentle turns when off the interstate. Re tail-lights, I started out to install diodes so I could just plug the VW into the tow vehicle, but it turned out to be easier and MUCH faster to just purchase a set of magnetic tow-truck tow lights and make little brackets for the rear bumper of the VW, so the mag lights had a secure place to rest.
 
I have towed my electric ford ranger thousands of miles behind my truck without any problems. I am actually using a manual transmission out of a mazda truck and I just leave it in neutral. The ignition has a point just before the on position where it unlocks the steering but doesn't give anything power.

Towing with one of these takes a little getting used to. You can't back up. Also, if you take a tight turn at slow speed, the wheels on the towed vehicle can start diving back and forth and make things a little exciting. Probably the thing that you have to be most careful of is the lack of brakes and tongue weight.
 
I have towed with a tow bar many times, I usually tie off the steering wheel leaving a little slack in the rope so it can maybe turn about half a steering wheel's turn, never had any problems. I always put the vehicle in nuetral with the key turned just a little bit turns the on position
 
After towing for about 5 miles it is a good idea to feel of the output shaft. I towed my 86 Toyota 4x4 about 50 miles and the tail shaft of the transfer case was hot. It was in neutral.
 
Some transmissions (like the NV4500 for instance) only get lubed when the input shaft is turning. As little as 5 miles pulling a CTD in neutral (engine off) will smoke the transmission. Some get lubed when the driveshft is turning. Then it is no problem. A few minutes researching how your transmission works could save you big bucks.
 
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