VE drive key

[MMiller]

No problem Daryle, I understand how discouraged a guy gets when he's doing a good job and his counterparts are not pulling their fare share.



Glad to hear you'll help us with parts. I'll pm you after bit for other stuff.



Michael

 

[TWorline]

Here's a trick I use with keys and keyways... (when I remember to do it. . )

Make a little "ding" in the keyway with a punch and hammer..... then tap the key in and it will stay in during assembly.

JLeonard:



Great tip! I will use that.

 

[bgilbert]

I guess I'm gonna have to walk into Scheid's again and get the fuel and injection parts you need again eh Michael??? :-laf Then mail them to you ?? I think I'll just start my own parts department. I already have a bunch of junkyard parts laying around, maybe I'll stop in at Scheids, buy up a bunch of 1st gen Cummins specific parts, gaskets, seals etc, then sell em to you BFE/Cummins distributor challenged folks... ?? At a huge markup of course.

 

[Greenleaf]

One idea would be to simply use a network dealer, like the Cummins Branch House in Columbus Ohio or one closer to your particular local. They simply take your phone call and send you the items. Very helpful even if you don't have the part number. You simply need the serial #

 

[dpuckett]

Bill,

I sent Michael an extra key I found yesterday.



GL,

That's a good idea. It seems the local (Sikeston MMO) Cummins shop has been in cahoots with D/C for pricing. Last FS1232 I got 3 years ago was $12 They are still $10 from Geno's now.



Daniel

 

[JLEONARD]

Oh uh, Bill, can you quote price and availability of a Cummins

4 inch exhaust bearing and knibbler pin?

Ohnevermind. . I can get it for half that at dieselzone.

:-laf :-laf

Naw... not the business you want to be in.

 

[Jgolden]

Dsteimle: last week I went looking for a fuel filler neck for my 98 ram gasser. I could get a rusty one for $50 and $20 shipping on internet. Checked Dealer price $80 brand new.

Since I already had a rusty one, I figured for $10 I'd go to the dealer. Pays to check.

For Cummins stuff I just have to mke a trip off my hill, althought the Cummins dealer has closed the service side of the place the parts guys are pretty motivated.

 

[PToombs]

I guess I'm gonna have to walk into Scheid's again and get the fuel and injection parts you need again eh Michael??? :-laf Then mail them to you ?? I think I'll just start my own parts department. I already have a bunch of junkyard parts laying around, maybe I'll stop in at Scheids, buy up a bunch of 1st gen Cummins specific parts, gaskets, seals etc, then sell em to you BFE/Cummins distributor challenged folks... ?? At a huge markup of course.

Bill, that's a great idea! Too bad nobody has a P-pump on their truck! :-laf :-laf

 

[MMiller]

I found a young man not far from where I live(thanks Terry) at South East Iowa Diesel. He was able to get me a key and mounting gasket for about $3 or so. I'll get the bill and post the exact amount. Daniel, I'll keep yours when it shows up for a spare, if you need it back let me know. Or if you want I'll send it back.



I did get the pump on without damaging the new key. I just finally got it to start. It was a real booger to get running, but I had also changed the fuel filter, and the in line filter I have installed before the lift pump. Even after I got it to run on 4 cylinders it would not clean up the other two without cracking them loose and letting the air out. I let it run a while and cracked the throttle a little bit and went It seems quite a little more responsive since its trip to SOP! :-laf I'll finish hooking up the throttle/kickdown linkage, and then back it outside for final pump adjustments. It gets a little smokey in my 1 car garage, especially since the ceiling is only about 8" above the stacks!



Michael

 

[dpuckett]

Michael, I dont need the key for right now- just put it in your spare parts bin and let someone use it. I learnt my lesson on btoscano's pickup about keyways and not dropping stuff down in the gear case.



DP

 

[MMiller]

Welp, I guess I'm going to need the other key still. :{ I put everything together yesterday and got it running. Took it out today, hauled the truck about 1 hour on the trailer, unloaded it and let it idle for 15 minutes, then hit the trail. On the decent down the first hill, the truck kinda choked, and wanted to die, then ran fine. Then on the first hill climb it ran perfect and halfway up started to choke and miss and pop out the exhaust. Got up to the top of the hill and popped the hood as it died and I heard a bad noise from the timing gear. Spun out the the oil fill tube and looked down, and in the bottom was laying 2 halves of the lock washer from the nut that holds the gear. Pulled them out and the oil fill fitting, and found the nut loose. Had my boy crank over the engine and I watched the gear turn, but not the pump... ..... just as I feared... ... . I'm thinking what am I going to do? So I thought about it, and figured, the key is sheared, the damage is done. I guess I better at least get it running good enough to get it back to the trailer. The p-pumps aren't keyed anyway. So I tightened up the nut on the gear with no washer, and made sure it was good and snug. Had my boy hit the starter and it fired right off and idled nice. Sounded just like it was supposed to. Whats the luck in that? So then I figured, I can't hurt it anymore then is already done, so we went deeper into the timber, and I wheeled it the rest of the day with no more problems. I guess sometime this winter the pump will get pulled again, and inspect the shaft and gear to see how bad the damage is.



I know for one thing, I will NEVER put the lockwasher back on ANY pump I pull off, and reinstall!



Michael

 

[Greenleaf]

THis elderly gent who owned/operated a John Deere Dealership in the 1950's /1960's once told me that a lock washer is a one time use. Especially when it is used on a critical application like the rear axle hub on a tractor... ... ... ... ... ... ... . or possibly an injection pump?



Food for thought;



If the nut "was" tightened to the proper specs and then the washer broke, why wouldn't the compression of the nut to the gear hub hold the washer? The gear wouldn't tend to move tighter on the shaft to loosen the washer... .....

 

[MMiller]

If the nut "was" tightened to the proper specs and then the washer broke, why wouldn't the compression of the nut to the gear hub hold the washer? The gear wouldn't tend to move tighter on the shaft to loosen the washer... .....

If the washer had started to push out from tightening,(which I believe it did), the load of the injection pump and the jerking of each injection would have finished it off(IMHO). I checked the nut once after the failure and it was still tight.



Michael

 

[bgilbert]

Your pump is ruined, better just send it to me, it's not worth anything now:-laf. Not that this would make a difference??... but you did torque the nut in two steps? Something like 15ftlbs or so, then tighten all the mounting nuts on the other side of the timing case, then a final torque of 44ftlbs to the nut on the shaft??



I'm surprised it wasn't all out of time after you had the engine cranked over and the pump gear turned but not the pump shaft. Then tightened it down after this. You must've lined up the keyway the best you could eh?

 

[PToombs]

See? I told you not to put the key in there! You young guys should listen to us old guys more often.

I'm glad you got it going and didn't screw up anything too bad.



P. S. You knew you'd get poop about this right? :-laf

 

[MMiller]

Your pump is ruined, better just send it to me, it's not worth anything now:-laf. Not that this would make a difference??... but you did torque the nut in two steps? Something like 15ftlbs or so, then tighten all the mounting nuts on the other side of the timing case, then a final torque of 44ftlbs to the nut on the shaft??



I'm surprised it wasn't all out of time after you had the engine cranked over and the pump gear turned but not the pump shaft. Then tightened it down after this. You must've lined up the keyway the best you could eh?

I snugged the nut down on assembly, after checking the keyway about 25 times, and then after everything was good, torqued it down, and thought all was good.



I'll send you my pump right after your 14mm pump arrives at my door.



Yeah, I'm suprised it got that close to time, on the first try, on the trail. I guess a guy gets lucky once in a while.



Pete, yes I knew I was going to get some crapola about this failure. I expect that from friends, I would be worried if I didn't catch any from you guys. I have no 'real' secrets though, even though I'm a mechanic by trade, it just proves that everybody screws up from time to time. I'd rather be screwing up my key and pump shaft, then somebody elses $300,000 combine, $200,000 tractor, or $10,000 engine. I'm still a bunch of money ahead doing it myself, then paying somebody else to screw it up for me. I just hope to prevent somebody else from doing what I did.



Michael

 

[bgilbert]

I'll send you my pump right after your 14mm pump arrives at my door.

I'm sure Stomp's got some 14mm pumps he could send ya for trade :-laf :-laf, taken as he's gone threw a few .

 

[dpuckett]

DONT EGG HIM ON..... Dang Bill. Although this will make for more campfire jokes next year You grease your u-joints since SOP?



DP

 

[PToombs]

Did he ever find them things? :-laf