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volkswagon turbo diesel ?

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motor mount id part number help?

Love mine(wifes). Gotta tell this story so I will tell it fast. Christmas and visiting both parents 280/255/then 180 miles home. Driving fast at 80+ highways jammed so lots of hard throttle. Get to my parents, spent the night(my wife and youngest in tow)and then a fast trip 255 to her parents. Next day is Sunday and have to get home so in the afternoon we zip down the country roads and to the interstate and at 620 miles or so(I don't remember the exact mileage but I do have all receipts) I stop in and fill up. With all miles at 80+ and more I compute 49. 99 mpg. Not too shabby.



I do not regularly drive that fast... ... . the car seems to love to go 80 plus though.

Normally and at speed limits I get 55 plus on the few long trips we have made with our 2003 jetta tdi.
 
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the car seems to love to go 80 plus though

I agree... 80 seems to be the comfy zone.

I "only" got 45 mpg last big trip... of course part of it was the GSP in New Jersey and all those stinkin toll booths! Plus I had a trunkfull of iron... I scored 4 steel rims for my 91 and was hauling them home.

:D
 
The last year prior to the pump deuse. The only problem I have had with it was someone stole the hubcaps at the ballpark, I was planning to upgrade the wheels anyway.

2003 tdi 5 speed silver in color.
 
Just joined the TDI crew.....

:) Looked for 8+ months for a car that was close enough for me to reasonably go look at before buying - wound up finding my '00 GOLF GL TDI in Queens, NY (about 85 miles from me) of all places. Hard to find them here since you cant buy them new here. Gotta love NY and its "FLEET" emissions stupidity over cars that dont require a tailpipe test.....

In any case, I am curious about the fuel filters - read lots about the Cummins and Fleetguard - anyone know if these little oil burners prefer something in particular? I have a couple weeks off, and I am going through the car thoroughly before switching over my reg and retiring my former firehouse commuter (a '90 NJSP Caprice 9C1). Read up on all the oil info on TDICLUB. COM, which was VERY thorough about what to use (I will be using full synthetic MOBIL DELVAC 1 5w-40). The GOLF is in great shape with 128k showing, and I intend on driving it for a long time to come.

GOLIATHGMC
 
my 2 cents worth

The guy i bought my truck from is currently building a VW powered Suzuki ? Sidekick?... very cool little and I do mean little toy... 4 wheel drive 50mpg... and he can load it into his toy hauler along with his shelby cobra as a pit vehicle. . it's about the size of a big golf cart and it's street legal.

JJ
 
Deo's right on the MAF test. If your car runs better without the MAF connected... that's not the usual result we're used to seeing. Maybe your MAF is shorted out or really bad...



If the car runs the same with/without the MAF connected - the MAF is bad. If the MAF is marginal or OK, the car should run poorly without a MAF. They'll run forever with a marginal MAF... toss in a new one (preferably a 'Pierburg' - do a Google search) and it'll be a whole new car.



As for the fuel filters...

You have to be a bit careful. The vast majority of 'A4' TDI's have a thermostatically controlled valve on the top of the fuel filter canister. This valve will circulate the warm fuel returned from the injectors and keep it in the filter until it warms up and then start returning it to the tank full-flow.



Eliminate this valve at your own risk - my 'A4' TDI didn't originally have this valve and it ran just fine in all weather conditions... naturally, it ran fine afterwards.



Since the ALH TDI's don't have a lift pump... installing a bigger or non-OEM type replacement fuel filter might hurt performance or cause issues. I don't have any experience with the Pump Deuse engines...



Matt
 
GOLIATHGMC said:
:)

In any case, I am curious about the fuel filters - read lots about the Cummins and Fleetguard - anyone know if these little oil burners prefer something in particular? ... ..... (I will be using full synthetic MOBIL DELVAC 1 5w-40).

GOLIATHGMC



I use the Mann fuel filter for my 2003 if thats any help. I changed it at 30k. The Mobil Delvac is a fine premium synthetic oil and your car will love it. Its also sold at Walmart and other auto stores under the name of Mobil 1 Truck and Suv. Its just repackaged and usually under 20 dollars a gallon.
 
i have a few tdis and use delvac 1 i am interested in th einfo you mentioned regarding the delvac in repackaged form where did you read abou that . . are you sure its the same?. i need to find some argh 4 gallons here was $121 bucks!!! $26 a gallon... i know cat synthetic oil is same as delvac but at catperpillar dealers. . hard to find like 800-1000 $ for a 55 gal drum... i change mine at 5000 miles and i have 3 tdis plus a few im building so i use the oil often. . later

Deo
 
Yep, same thing. When it first came out there were many posts on this. If you do a search on this site you can read them. Several people emailed Mobil and the truck and suv is the exact same thing as Delvac, both 5-40.
 
About the oil...

Wish I had known to look at that oil at Wally world... . I couldn't find anyone who had Delvac on the shelf. I wound up using the next thing I found on the list from TDIClub.com - Shell Rotella 5w-40 Full Synthetic; it has the same ratings. I also have a line on some Amsoil synthetic that carries the european rating of 505. 00 - which according to the VW manual is correct. Other than that rating itself, I have no other indications good or bad about the Amsoil. Anyone care to share their $0. 02 on Delvac, Rotella and Amsoil?

GOLIATHGMC :cool:
 
I have never used the Delvac.



I have read many oil war posts however and the Delvac has always been a highly regarded oil for Cummins as well as the VW diesel engines. I would have no problem running it.

The Rotella synthetic 5-40 is synthetic oil in name only. Without trying to explain it fully, it is not made from the same base as true synthetics. When I was looking at oil for my jetta the Amsoil was not yet available so my options were the Delvac and Rotella 5-40 and the tdi club had said the Rotella was fine to run in my engine. I bought a case at an oil distributor and still have a couple of gallons left. When I run out I will change to either the Amsoil or the Mobil 1 truck and suv oil.

Did you know that you can buy Amsoil at dealer costs by subscribing to their preferred customer program? It costs 10 dollars for 6 months or 20 for a year but an order of 100 dollars or so will usually pay that cost. I made a large purchase of oil for my two gassers (daughters cars) and bypass filter setup and extra filters along with enough oil for several years and the preferred customer program saved me.
 
Update ! ! ! !

It gets hairyer by the minute!



Been trying to decipher all this oil propaganda since I drove the car home



My oil vendor that calles on our shop says run castrol syntech or the syn delvac so that led me to belive when the volkswagon service rep said that the oil was unavailible to the public that he was just playing the service writer role where they scare you into the higher priced services at the dealer and say whatever sounds good to get into your wallet and that he was using syntec for big $...



So the day finally comes we turn 4000 and the oil off of the dipstick feels sooty and I decide its time to drop the break-in oil. So the old/lady calls to get an appointment for the first free one they gave us at the time of the sale and they put her off till incoveinent times so I have her to just go get the oil and filter for me to install. Well I turns out there is a special silver bottled castrol oil just for this car it says TXT 505 01 special motor oil TDI special edition for pump nozzle engines. On the back it says SAE 5W-40 api SJ/CF, ACEA A3/B3, VW 505 01/505 00/500 00, Ford WSS-M2C917-A



So I was satisfied that at least the shop manger wasn't lying and while she was there pickin up the stuff he advised her to only pump the oil out and never use the drain plug. Well I knew that the 1. 8 and 2. 0 and other gas engines have had problems for years. But I decided to drop the break-in oil out the plug just to be sure all the casting material and other metal came out the first time. so I losen the cartridge top to let the oil out of the can. I take out the dozen or so screws and drop the belly pan/skid plate and drain the oil. Only to find out that they gave me the old style A4 filter and now Im stuck. I call my most reliable parts vendor and see if he has a filter for a 06 tdi and he puts me on hold and calls WIX directly to find out that they don't even have that style availible yet and won't for some months. So I wait now car-less for VW to bring out the RIGHT filter.



ARGHH! sorrry for the rant.
 
You're doing it right. The only reason for sucking the oil out the dipstick hole is the amount of effort required to lower the belly pan. Many people do it that way including myself but you can use the drain plug if you prefer.

You are right on the 505. 01 oil, the Castrol that VW carries and there is a Motul brand that has that spec. Hopefully there will be more in the future. Don't worry too much on the oil price. It is high but most people running TDI's use synthetic oil and most run 5 bucks a quart anyway.
 
The bulitins I have seen or TSB state that the aluminum oil pan is very easy to strip with the steel plug not sure if it is a heat retention issue or people over tightening, mine was loose, not loose but barly snug, from the factory when I took it out yesterday. I have also seen info about the 1. 8 having severe sluging from hot spots. Some plugs you can tourqe down but I normaly snug em especially on imports. I love how the idiots at walllmarrtt tighten them with a big breaker bar with undoughtably the wrong size soket so it rounds and then paint RTV all over it to tamper proof it and then leave the filter so loose it weeps till the next time. I just hate the people that like the one-stop-shopping where you let some monkeys service your car and never break stride into the little man killer store where you can find any product for less. Then when you get home to unload the grocerys and all the deals you see the oil driping out...







On a side note the guy was pretty quick with the new filter and he apologized. And said that VW has always been bad about middle year changes and that these last changes were for the better.
 
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Wally-World and the likes....

I love how the idiots at walllmarrtt tighten them with a big breaker bar with undoughtably the wrong size soket so it rounds and then paint RTV all over it to tamper proof it and then leave the filter so loose it weeps till the next time.

This is EXACTLY why my business is picking up - where do they find these monkeys? I just advised a customer on purchasing a new truck (He bought an '05 Ram CC SB 4x4 HPCR/48RE on my reccomendation and LOVES it) and warned him against utilizing the 3 years worth of free oil changes at the dealer. I would be concerned about some of these guys correctly changing their own socks.

As for the oil, another buddy of mine almost changed the oil in his '05 Jetta PD TDI with AMSOIL with the 505. 00 rating. VW raked him over the coals selling him the correct 505. 01, and then told him he would always have to come back to them for his oil. Another snowjob. I sometimes wonder what color the sky is in the world these dealer guys live in... .

Sorry for continuing the rant :0)

GOLIATHGMC
 
HoleshotHolset said:
If I'm not mistaken, I think those vintage cars would have the old 1. 6 idi engine... Hold onto your hat, they're powerful sons-of-guns!



52hp @ 4800rpm

71ft-lbs @ 2000rpm



Deo's 1. 6L made like 135hp to the wheels, though... His 1. 6L had a tweaked 4BT pump on it, though. :)



Matt



Lets hear some more about this pump swap. We have a 3. 9 cummins our lab at school and those pumps are almost identical to the eye
 
I dont know about VW but mercedes is

coming out with a 2006 v6 CDI that looks pretty cool. Too bad more car Mfg's don build Diesels
 
Im having trouble getting my TDI broke in its still in the 40s (mpg) instead of the 50s and still not as smooth as I know it will be one day. How did they build a motor that COULD be broke in on synthetic. Most race shops run 50w a few races to seat and wear the new parts in and then go to full synthetic, and then near the end of the build life when the motor starts to use oil they switch back to 50w so it will burn and leave a minimum of crud in the head/exhaust ports.
 
The best I've managed so far is 47mpg. Of course that's with the AC on all the time. I understand turning it off will add 4mpg or so.
 
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