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volkswagon turbo diesel ?

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motor mount id part number help?

Every gas engine I have ever built (mostly SBC's) has been broken in with regular dinosaur oil for about 5k miles, then switched over to Mobil 1. I have only taken one of those engines apart again, and the internals were all pretty nice. However, there is really no way to measure or guestimate the effects. My engines are in no way lab tests or a controlled environment. I think looking into an analysis of the oil will tell a lot more.

As for my VW Golf, I have been consistently in the 50-52mpg range. Just take into account that it is a 2 door, 5 speed car with no power options and usually only me in it. It weighs 2590# and I use the CC religiously - and most of my 150 mile commute round trip is at highway speed.

GOLIATHGMC
 
no vw bombers? I think im going to do the rocket chip deal. You send them you ecu and they solder chips to it and if you ever need to go to the dealer they next day air you a "stock " loaner ecu to go in on
 
rivercat said:
no vw bombers? I think im going to do the rocket chip deal. You send them you ecu and they solder chips to it and if you ever need to go to the dealer they next day air you a "stock " loaner ecu to go in on



I read on tdiclub.com that the rocket chip reflash can take care of the check engine light when you remove the egr for offroad use only. Can anyone validate this?
 
I've used Kerma's (Bosio) nozzles on my old TDI. I would certainly consider looking into them if you own a TDI. When I get my next TDI (notice I didn't say "If") - I'll be calling Charlie (Kerma) right away for some new nozzles.



You don't necessarily need a chip for the EGR issue, but that would be a very easy and relatively painless way to do it. Lots of folks have had pretty good luck with what's known as an "Epsilonian Device". Basically, all it does is alter the MAF sensor signal return to the ECM when the EGR solenoid calls for EGR flow.



You can even eliminate the MAF sensor with chips these days. :)



Matt

On edit: If you're thinking of getting your TDI 'chipped' - choose a vendor that has a 'chip socket' arrangement. They desolder your OEM chip... solder in a socket... and plug in their reprogrammed EEPROM. This is the right way to do it. Don't settle for cheap 'riser cards' - they're problematic.



The advantage of using a socketed system is that you can easily swap out programs on your own and you never have to ship out your ECM again...
 
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My wife bought an 06 Pkg 2 Jetta about a month ago... it is so much fun to drive! Turns heads also because not many people are aware of the new body style.



We just put a VA box in this past Friday night. AWESOME!!!!!



It also looks so cute puffing smoke!
 
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HoleshotHolset said:
I've used Kerma's (Bosio) nozzles on my old TDI. I would certainly consider looking into them if you own a TDI. When I get my next TDI (notice I didn't say "If") - I'll be calling Charlie (Kerma) right away for some new nozzles.

A couple weeks ago Charlie was at the Edge drag races with his Golf. It was in the 15's which really impressed me and the crowd especially up next to the big diesel trucks.



I tried doing a search on tdiclub on propane and could not find anything useful. Anybody know of anyone using it on their TDI?

I asked Charlie if he had tried it but said that on the little Golf he couldn't find a place for the bottle.
 
Charlie is a great guy and his Golf has a lot more in it than 15's in the 1/4 mile. He's done a lot to that car and I think his times will steadily fall in the future. :)



Good luck finding anything on the TDIClub forums that you wouldn't find in a VW service manual. The folks on there are so conservative when it comes to diesel performance that it hurts.



Don't bother with propane - it's only for folks that can't or won't add fuel the traditional way... bigger nozzles, electronic modification of the injection events, increased rail pressure, etc.



I'd be very careful with nitrous oxide on an OEM TDI. The stock Garrett VNT-15 turbo is very small and spools so fast that I think it would grenade from overspeeding in short order with even a small shot of nitrous. Mine lasted through many 38+psi quick blasts, but that's really pushing the little bugger.



Matt
 
HoleshotHolset said:
Don't bother with propane - it's only for folks that can't or won't add fuel the traditional way... bigger nozzles, electronic modification of the injection events, increased rail pressure, etc. Matt



What I am after is something I can turn on and off from the driver's seat.



I am concerned about how bigger nozzles and increased rail pressure will affect fuel economy. Can I turn an electronic mod on and off remotely?
 
TORQUE THIS said:
What about the water/meth system???

Some of the guys on the tdiclub have had issues with the water/meth.



I am not really looking to cool the combustion, just add more power by adding more fuel when I need it.
 
KBennett said:
Some of the guys on the tdiclub have had issues with the water/meth.



Your right, those guys have issues... :-laf



What kind of power are you looking for, I was very impressed by the power the VA added... the VA box has an on/off switch as an option...
 
best tdi???

What year of tdi vw's are the best to buy on average, out of all aspects? I'm assuming they all use the same diesel engine? Which ones run the best, have the least amount of problems and can get good power out of with some upgrades? thanks,

Lance
 
I would say a early 96-97 passat especially a wagon would have teh most room and ease of modifications. the 98 jetta tdis have better pistons and if you got roll up windows are pretty bomb proof. the 99-2003 A4 golf jetta nd anew beetles are mor erefined but have some other small problems you will need a clutch if you do more then a chip and the parts are more expensive and the vehicle is heavier. the on thing i sdislike about the A4's is teh wiring harness is not standard for the year of the vehicel . . what that means is vw uses a different vender for the wiring at differenet times, plants, if they change harness etc . so that means almost all othe the car of a same year do not have a uniform color or connector type in the hanress often the color code of wire is differnt. the harnesse son a a4 are not plug and play for different engines either is pretty much made for that combo . . so adding or cutting out a part is a lot tricky then earlier vw models. Also the A$ tdi engines have adiffernt block and cyl head they have more reinforcemnt ribsa and it seems to be strronger but the waterpump is driven off of the timing belt which makes waterpump job a a automatic t belt job no fun... . also if you want to swap engines into a older vehicle the earlier tdis have a engine that older engine mounts will bolt too allowing easier swaps etc.

Basically I would recommend a 98 jetta tdi with roll up windows as the best mod for the buck and most realiable, if you want more room a passat is king and the passat wagon is the best. . although a passat tdi especially a wagon are going for lots of $... i've had both types and i am selling my A4 golf to a guy in mass. im buildinga 95 passat wagon GLX as my new car... . so i wil lhave 2 passaat wagon tdis and i am also building a 98 jetta tdi for my sister. . its almost done. . i have a few other tdi engines for other swap projects etc... . best of luck and keep your eyes pealed.

Thanks

Deo

\x/ Hillfolk!
 
therabbittree,

Sounds like you know your stuff very well. I think you answered every question that i would have asked. Why do you say look for one with crank widows. For less wiring? If i end up buying one, I will probably just get a jetta. Dont really need the room of a wagon. I am looking for something reliable to commute to work with. I have two dodges and diesel is $3. 19 a gallon here so its starting to dip into my pocket book. :( I guess these cars are all front wheel drive. How big of a job is it to put in a clutch?

thanks,

Lance
 
roll up windows dont break!. . the electric ones do. getting a wagon or sedan is like a regualr cab vs a quad cab. . once you have one you never go back... mor espace is always a good thing. . a clutch is about 3 hrs-4 hrs. . i've done em in less time. . but im gettinmg older ha. . (almost 30 haha) and they are heavier then a rabbit transmission any how alot of 98 jettas came with cruise and sunroofs but rool up windows. Best thing to do if you buy a used one from the general public is de gunk the head and intake . . and remove egr and vent the crank case oil vapor to the atmosphere. .

thanks

Deo
 
PDR offers a box by Dieseltuners anyone heard of this? they say its better than the VA box. I think the rocket chip is best but they don't recomend sockets and I would rather have something plug and play.
 
98slushbox said:
What year of tdi vw's are the best to buy on average, out of all aspects? I'm assuming they all use the same diesel engine? Which ones run the best, have the least amount of problems and can get good power out of with some upgrades? thanks,

Lance



Hi Lance,



I've had good luck with the A4's and would stick to the 2000-2003 cars myself. As noted the block and head combo is better, along with the head gasket holds in better. I've ran 39psi for 1 shot on the wifes car just to see what amount of boost it was capable of ( I don't recommend this to anyone ) and the head gasket is fine. I have run 21 psi for over a year with no ill effects.



Also the wifes car has roll up windows which is probly a good thing from what I've heard.



Doing a clutch is not nessasarily a must depending on what clutch the car came with, when you do a tuner box and can even get away with a set of larger nozzles if set-up right. The cars either come with a Sachs or a Luk.

Luk being a stronger clutch. My wifes car has the Luks and I have laid down over 175hp and 290ftlbs with the stock clutch. If I have the boost come on too fast on the bottom end, then it blows through the clutch. Dial back the boost some on the bottom end and she holds fine. Yes, more boost on the bottom end is funner but easier on drive line and tires. :D
 
Hey Nascar: I too have a VW TDI. My TDI is a 2002 VW Jetta GLS, 5 speed.



Transmission: It has a VR6 single mass flywheel, Stage 5 three puck Racing clutch, Quaiffe LSD, stock ring and pinion running through 18X7. 5 inch BBS RC wheels and GTI VR6 rotors, calipers and suspension.



Engine: The engine has lower compression 17. 2:1 pistons, 3 hole head gasket, ARP studs, ported and polished ALH110 Euro head, Charlie's Kerma PP520 injectors, Rocket Chip 4 ECM software, 11mm plunger on the injector pump, hammer mod on the injector pump, dawes device, OMI intake, Upsolute Stage III GT20/hybrid turbo, Spearco full front FMIC, straight piped race exhaust. Engine also has a 2 micron bypass oil filter setup, and a Holley pusher type diesel pump/filter.



The TDI runs nice... a little slow on the spool up. It wakes up at 1200 rpm. Pulls stong all the way to 4500rpm. I can hit 1400 EGT at WOT. At 1400 EGT, the TDI is pushing 32 psi. of boost. On the highway it puts out a constant 37-41 mpg on B50 biodiesel. I have 202K miles on this setup with no problems.



On the dyno, I get 177 hp/288 ft. lbs. of torque in third gear on a Mustang Dyno on the first run. My EGT's hit 1350 @ 29 psi of boost.



I really enjoy the VW TDI's... these cars are the ultimate sleepers. On the highway, I terrorize anything and everything that moves. There are very few vehicles that can outpace or overpass me once I spool up. And once I'm in front of them, the diesel smoke keeps them off my tail.



I strongly recommend the TDI powered VW's. In Canada Volvo also made a 5 cylinder version that was VW powered called the 850TD.



The TDI's are a blast, and with $5K, you can really build a monster TDI. For those that are considering building a fast TDI, the oil doesn't really matter as long as it is filtered well. I change my oil every 35-50K miles. The bypass oil filter filters down to 2 micron. The oil stays clear and very viscous. The most important and urgent upgrade is a better turbo. The VNT15/17 is junk!
 
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