Weekend maintenance on the '01

[ofelas]

NIsaacs - try Mopar clutch module # 52028760

 

[NIsaacs]

of, why do you say that? The reason I ask, is, I have been wondering about an early 12v, due to the cooler t-stat they use and possibly cooler clutch engagement. The two oem Mopar's for my truck that I have, are not working for me. The dimensions that matter, are the same. Napa has both in stock (Hayden), but am unsure if they will warrantee an older clutch on my rig. The price is about half for the 12valve.

 

[ofelas]

NI, totally forgot you're talking about an '01.

The Mopar part # I posted works perfectly on the first/second 12v with both the 180f & 195f stats.

Engagement & disengagement are within the range of both stats.

I'd go out & check temps for ya with a laser temp gun, but my fan/clutch/shroud are off the truck from Nov 01 to April 01.

 

[NIsaacs]

of, thanks. Mopar list three #, one for '89-98, 98.5-99 and 2000-02. Napa shows them for 89-99 and 2000-02. The Napa I have almost acts like it is the wrong rotation, yet the threads are right. Some times it will stay locked up for several months, and when it does unlock it wont lock up again until an overnight shut down, weird.

 

[TFucili]

Sounds like another old name brand has gone to the lowest bidder mentality???

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Back in 2015 when I was trying to figure out what fan to use since the OEM was NS1, I did research on fans and fan clutches. The specs for the fan clutches I found are in this post

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-coolan-fan-blade-where-can-i-get-one.252476/

Maybe that might help you?

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Finally replaced the OEM tires with something that should slide around as much in the field.

Sold the OEMs to someone on Craigslist to help recover costs.

Been a while since I've done larger tire mounting. Now I know why guys like the Hunter changer that lifts the tires for you!!! Oh well, at my stage in life that would NEVER pay for itself, so my older Accu-Turn will keep working just fine for me - but may need a new foot switch to control the clamps. Had to fiddle with it to make it not leak.

 

[NIsaacs]

Back in 2015 when I was trying to figure out what fan to use since the OEM was NS1, I did research on fans and fan clutches. The specs for the fan clutches I found are in this post

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-coolan-fan-blade-where-can-i-get-one.252476/

Maybe that might help you?

Thanks Dan, good reading. The fan is now available and so is a plastic one rated for more flow. However at this point, my clutch is my problem. Two oem Mopar's won't do the job, they cycle too slow. The temp is off the chart before they lock. Mostly because of my modified power level, it gets too hot, too quick for the clutch to receive the heat sink from the radiator. Not sure how to fix that.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Did some more checking. The dorman replacement fan is for the 1994-2002 (Part Number: 620-066)

Fan clutch is different but only the OD.

I'd call and try to find someone at Hayden that knows what the functional difference is.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, I just installed another one, hopefully it won't be defective out of the box....

 

[NIsaacs]

Did some local hauls yesterday, the clutch never unlocked, what the heck??? If Napa will warranty a '99 and older clutch, I would try one. If not, I will get my money back and start over. Maybe O'Reilly and Murray.

 

[Joe Mc]

Not sure this suggestion will help but... take a look on https://www.genosgarage.com/category/fan-clutch if you can wait till tomorrow call them. The folks there really know their stuff and are willing to work with you to help figure things out.

 

[NIsaacs]

Thanks Joe. I am not sure what to ask them since I have a modified truck that has a cooling system not designed for it. Since it is of my own doing and not a Dodge deficiency, I need to resolve it myself.

I notice in your sig you have way more power than I have....do you have any overheating issues? I tow heavy all the time and in the summer it is extreme here. Until I find a fan clutch that will work, I can't fix anything else, if in fact there are other issues. Like my radiator, it is a new aftermarket that appears identical to the old one, but is it?

The problems all started when I added the Edge Juice about 4 years ago. So I started replacing all the cooling system parts including a new oem Mopar clutch. It won't cycle soon enough. By the time it gets the heat soak from the radiator, it is too late. So that is why the aftermarket Hayden, that won't work at all. I am at a loss as to why. It is like the wrong clutch for the application, like maybe it is reverse rotation or something. In the 5 months I tried the original it only unlocked about 3-4 times. That would have no relationship to my mods, so it is not the trucks fault that I can see.

I would like to try an older application clutch and see if that would help....if it will work like normal. I am loosing confidence in aftermarket clutches...why wont they at least try to work? I might just buy one outright and take the hit if it won't work. It is kind of hard to get warranty when you install a part that is not called for.

 

[TFucili]

Nick, are these viscous clutches?

 

[ofelas]

The 12v clutch I mentioned was designed to work with a 180f stat.
24v stats were either 180f or 190f so it’s entirely possible the OEM 24v clutch isn’t the “right” one for your particular stat.
Having said that - perhaps run a fin comb in the appropriate size over your rad, IC, and whatever else overvalved cooling monstrosity hanging from the rad yoke.
Almost seems like the airflow through the center of the rad is hot, thereby prematurely activating the bimetallic strip on the forward facing clutch module surface.

Thanks Joe. I am not sure what to ask them since I have a modified truck that has a cooling system not designed for it. Since it is of my own doing and not a Dodge deficiency, I need to resolve it myself.

I notice in your sig you have way more power than I have....do you have any overheating issues? I tow heavy all the time and in the summer it is extreme here. Until I find a fan clutch that will work, I can't fix anything else, if in fact there are other issues. Like my radiator, it is a new aftermarket that appears identical to the old one, but is it?

The problems all started when I added the Edge Juice about 4 years ago. So I started replacing all the cooling system parts including a new oem Mopar clutch. It won't cycle soon enough. By the time it gets the heat soak from the radiator, it is too late. So that is why the aftermarket Hayden, that won't work at all. I am at a loss as to why. It is like the wrong clutch for the application, like maybe it is reverse rotation or something. In the 5 months I tried the original it only unlocked about 3-4 times. That would have no relationship to my mods, so it is not the trucks fault that I can see.

I would like to try an older application clutch and see if that would help....if it will work like normal. I am loosing confidence in aftermarket clutches...why wont they at least try to work? I might just buy one outright and take the hit if it won't work. It is kind of hard to get warranty when you install a part that is not called for.

 

[NIsaacs]

Nick, are these viscous clutches?

Yes, Mopar lists 3 numbers for the 2nd. gens, aftermarket only two. Mopar: 1 for 91.5-98, 98.5-99 and 2000-02....aftermarket is 91.5-99 and 2000-02. All have the same dimensions that matter...the early ones are smaller overall (light duty I guess) and like ofelas said, the 12 valve used a 180 stat as oem, the 24 valve is 190. So I am wondering if an older clutch would heat sink sooner.

ofelas, the Hayden clutch has only unlocked 3 or 4 time in the 5 months I have used it. It should unlock as soon as you get up to speed, cold engine, it don't. The one time it did unlock when I needed it to lock, it wouldn't, I finally had to slow down and down shift at 219*. Then it will only lock back up after a overnight shut down, then back to lock for a month or two.

At an idle the fan will suck a small sheet of paper tablet up against the AC condenser instantly, so it seems the air flow is fine. I can't see any blockage at all.

 

[Joe Mc]

NIsaacs, I've been fortunate during the 17 years I've owned my truck. I haven't had any overheating issues or running too hot. Well there was one time that I tried the "red" anti-freeze about 8 years back and on a trip to Yellowstone it the temp increased to a point where I had to turn the heat on and open the windows. When I got home I drained the red s_ _t out and flushed the heck out of the system, installed the correct stuff and added a bottle of "Water Wetter". I drain, flush & backflush every two years. I did have a water pump go on me about 5 years back and had to replace with a chainstore one (new pump) it lasted a year I got another new (warranty) from the chain store and it too only lasted a year. I finally got a new one from Cummins and it has been good. I also got a Cummins thermostat as I've heard some bad reviews about the aftermarket ones. As for calling Geno's go for it they're really helpful. Explain what you are running = Year, Make & Model then the engine etc. and then state the problems you've been having. Ever think about electric fan(s)??? Try Geno's first.

 

[ofelas]

JoeMc, your experience with "red" HOAT coolant are interesting. It has the exact same heat transfer (+ additional water pump lube & "long life" 5 year additives) as traditional green coolant.

Could it be that one time you used the red stuff the system wasn't air burped?

You're a long standing member, I won't even ask if you used red Toyota coolant or Dex-Cool by mistake ;-)

NIssacs - fins & cooling tubes do strange things to us. Perhaps try a $5 fin comb + a $7 can of Home Dept HVAC spray cleaner anyway?

 

[ofelas]

Yes.

Although, you and I know that if the first cylinder is violently forced to be at 90 degrees to the rest of them, air cooling will do just fine.

Nick, are these viscous clutches?

 

[NIsaacs]

I also got a Cummins thermostat as I've heard some bad reviews about the aftermarket ones.

I keep seeing this so there is probably something to it. I ran the oem 190 (Napa) up until this past summer then went to 180 (Napa) it didn't help much, just gives me an extra 10* or about 150' before I have to back out of it. It seems to work fine but some times you just can't explain some things, a Cummins t-stat might help a bunch if I can get a clutch to work. I can't explain this Hayden at all. When I did my research, I looked up Dayco, Murray and Hayden. Hayden seemed like the cats meow so I went with them. It's crazy how it wont work at all.