Weekend maintenance on the '01

[NIsaacs]

Made a round trip to Phoenix today and picked up a load of forms The load was too small to test the fan but I do like the P2. It took a little bit to set it for the car trailer, couple of lockups on the side streets in Phoenix. With a standard slow down or stop it is nice, but if you slam the truck, the trailer will too. I ended up with boost 1 and 6 gain.

Fuel mileage was awesome, I kinda drove like GAmes and it paid off. 422 miles, 24.6 gallons for 17.15 mpg.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Nice pulling low loads with little wind resistance.

 

[NIsaacs]

Fuel pressure gauge gurus on 2gen. 24v. I keep having sensor failure on my Edge Juice. Instructions said to install at the pump so I did. About 6 months later it started leaking out the electrical plug, they sent me a new one. Installed same place, lasted about 2 years and quit. Installed the next one with a banjo snubber and grease hose, it lasted 6 months and quit. I added 5' of 1/4" rubber fuel line to this one. Now I get hard start after an overnight shutdown. I suspect too much hose volume with air. I thought it would purge out but I don't think it is. I am going to pull the sensor and let the truck run until fuel comes out the hose and try that.

I suspect part of the reason for the failures is Edge is using a sub quality vendor for their monitor. I also suspect that is one of the reasons for the CTS2 upgrade, that maybe it is Isspro now. I bought an HD sensor for the CTS2 but like the ad said, it won't work on the CTS, yup it didn't One of the research sites that I used said they didn't recommend the standard pressure sensor to measure fuel, to use the HD one. I have also read some reviews that mentioned wet v/s dry sensors, that some are not up for both.

My transmission temp has never worked either so I gave up on it. I did update my monitor this morning, first time in 4 years, maybe that will help. I am going to try my transmission temp again.

I also left my Garmin dash camera stuck to the windshield for two days (I forgot) so now it is toast I plugged it into my computer to try and make it work and all it did was kill my usb port to my key board....I think it is Ace Hardware's fault

 

[TFucili]

Always breaking stuff. We'll have to call you Baby Huey, soon

 

[DavidC]

Maybe it's this ethonal crap they keep feeding us. My Westach lasted about 18 years before it leaked out of the electrical plug. They did not make it anymore so I had to change everything to ISSPRO. Hasn't been a year yet so no longevity report yet. If it was a vibration problem I would think the grease hose would have solved that as that is what I used and had/have the sensor ty-wrapped to some hoses on the drivers side. If they are not using seals that are not compatible with this crap they are feeding us they will fail in short order.

 

[JR]

Can't help ya on the sensor issue but I always used a globe style valve as an isolator. I ran mechanical gauge - fuel in the cab and never had an issue. Globe valve just barely cracked open, 1/8" air brake tubing, mechanical gauge. The hammering effect from the VP would eventually wear on the valve after some years and cause the gauge needle to start fluctuating but they are cheap enough and easy enough to replace. I had the same gauge for around 10 years.

I always wondered if something like this would help soften the hammer effect on valves and sensors

https://www.supply.com/sioux-chief-...-connection-hammer-arrestor-660-gtc1/p2493644

 

[NIsaacs]

This is what I have but no needle valve.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bf-bbs010/gauge-related

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...porative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4518072

 

[NIsaacs]

Gotcha. In other words, the "39% more air flow" claim should have an asterisk next to it, which after reading the description definitely does not

In fairness, when the best option is the only one available, play ball. Kudos to Geno's for attempting to fill the void. Just needs a little different wording.

Update, after running this new fan all summer, I am not impressed. I do not recommend it for a towing rig.

I am positive that it flows less at above idle rpm, in spite of the ad. On a first start of the day it takes a long time to kick out, like there is not enough resistance. Same way with AC on, moving slow, it kicks on fine, just wont kick back off at speed.

Yesterday I hauled a heavy load up a 1 mile long 6% grade in 5th, pushed it hard and I hit 210*. This was a cool 52* day, then it took forever to release after the hill and easy going. This next spring the oem is going back on.

My thought is, even thou it has 9 blades v/s 7, they are too close together for a good bite of air at high rpm. That the 7 blade allows a bigger bite. Plus the pitch of the 7 blade is serious v/s the 9 blade. The 20" fit on the shroud v/s the 22" is also significant. If you scroll up (page 11) and look at the picture of the new fan, you will see the blades are so wide they all but overlap each other with a very gentle pitch.

 

[NIsaacs]

Changed engine oil, fuel filter and t-case today. Decided to switch from ATF+4 (recommended) to Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic blend. It is what I use in the Ford Escape (recommended), that will eliminate stocking the ATF+4. I have never liked ATF in a gear box anyway. 334,882 miles on it so far with the ATF since day one, so I guess it works

 

[NIsaacs]

Whelp...dang stock turbo is gunny sacked. Doing an oil change and rear differential and noticed way too much side movement on the intake side. It is not touching but almost. I don't have time to ask "which one" so I just ordered a K27 from Power Driven Diesel plus it is on sale for two more days It was a tossup between DAP and this outfit. They were recommended by GAmes and Big Papa on another thread. Good enough for me.

340k miles on it. I think it was my driver chasing me for 3 days with the '91 that did it in

 

[NIsaacs]

Truck is up and running again. Two day delivery on the turbo so that was good. The owners manual is in two different foreign languages, so it is worthless. It was a direct bolt in like advertised to fit a stock truck with a direct mount exhaust brake. Both housings do need clocked and the exhaust pipe moved back 3/4". Did a quick 1/2 mile shake down run to check for boost/exhaust leaks, all appears okay. The factory setting on the boost is 26, that was exact. Not sure how much I will need. It is rated 450 hp @ 40 psi. I have 400 hp so....Anyone know where to start?

I was going to set it a little higher but my driver said to leave it alone until it gets broken in....I was like...that makes sense, I have trained her well I have a load of class 6 AB and two loads of cinders to deliver this morning so I will know more today.

 

[NIsaacs]

Initial observation of the new turbo is it spools even quicker than the oem. The intake is quiet exhaust note is about the same. I read that one revolution of the waste gate adjustment equals 1 psi boost. Two turns gave me 28 psi, so I turned it three more and now I am at 31 psi. Not sure how much I really need, I am guessing about 34-35. Haven't pulled any significant grades yet. I like it.

 

[Joe Mc]

Just remember more boost = more heat. If it works good how you have it giving more boost might not help and could increase EGTs,

 

[NIsaacs]

Just remember more boost = more heat. If it works good how you have it giving more boost might not help and could increase EGTs,

Thanks Joe, I was wondering about that. My turbo knowledge...wheel/housing size v/s stock is very limited. Drive pressure, boost pressure v/s stock is like?? I will know more when I can pull a good grade. I am hoping lower egt's and coolant temps.

 

[Joe Mc]

I'm no expert for sure. If you say it is spooling quicker and a bit more boost# I'd haul a load and watch EGTs and Boost PSIs then compare to prior. Enjoy!

 

[NIsaacs]

I set it for 33 psi, that way I can compare turbos. Hauled a small load just now, about 18k, and on some rolling hills I hit it hard and the egt's seem to be about the same. It hit 1350 pretty quick, so maybe not much help in that department. I was at about 5800' elevation and 85*.

 

[Joe Mc]

Sounds good, not too hot, maybe an other than stock air box & filter might cool it down a little. But seems good. You could bump up and see the bump down and compare.

 

[NIsaacs]

Still like my new turbo, it seems to help my egt's some, maybe about 100*. Tossed the plastic fan and reinstalled my oem, fan clutch works as it should now. I watched all my temps this weekend hauling 26k. The wind was really bad and I noticed my transmission temps were running in the 210* range, it seems the air flow gets disturbed when it is windy. On a calm day it runs around 190*. Coolant got up to 213 on a good pull on level 3. I tried level 2 one trip, power is not acceptable three is ok but probably going back to level 5.

I hired a local trucker to help me, '98.5 twin turbo truck. he hauled 2 loads and his 6 month old, $7k, 1000 hp transmission give up

Average fuel mileage for three days was 11.5 mpg, works for me.

Thinking real serious about buying a '99 Mopar fan clutch, I think it will match my 180* t-stat better. I drove the '91 for a bit last week and the fan comes on at about 190, I like that. Not sure why, but the 91.5-98 and the 2000-2002 clutch are both $160 but the 98.5-99 is $260....

 

[Michaelsloft]

Thinking real serious about buying a '99 Mopar fan clutch, I think it will match my 180* t-stat better. I drove the '91 for a bit last week and the fan comes on at about 190, I like that. Not sure why, but the 91.5-98 and the 2000-2002 clutch are both $160 but the 98.5-99 is $260...

Keep us posted about anymore changes and it sounds like engine cooling is working better for you with some of your recent changes.
The transmission temps increasing when it is windy is interesting.
Good to see this thread active again!

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

What is different about these parts, other than price??

Is it kinda similar to the FSS for a VW Rabbit being the same one as for a 5.9?? Same part, but different price...