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What is the best setup for hauling 5th wheel campers ?

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G56 fluid ?

Adding brake controller

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God love your heart....the simplicity and total amount of common sense in the post above.......brings tears to my eyes and a lump in my throat.

And you mean it’s not OK for me to choose my axle ratio.....and I must go strictly by what I read on certain inter webs??? :-laf

On a side note.......has anyone else but ME noticed or recalled that GM has ONLY offered the 3.73 axle ratio in their 2500/3500 6.6L DuraMax trucks since the DuraMax was first introduced?????

Anyone else want to take a stab at my GCW again? Hint.....truck comes in at 9,360....verified with a CAT Scale ticket.

Apples and Oranges. The Duramax is a V8 that operates at higher RPM's. ON EDIT: All three have tuned max HP to 2800 RPM. Max torque GM 1600, RAM 1700 and FORD 1800.

Allison gear ratios are different:

1st 3.094 : 1

2nd 1.809 : 1

3rd 1.406 : 1

4th 1.00 : 1

5th 0.711 : 1

6th 0.614 : 1 (even taller that the 68RFE and Aisin)

R 4.48 : 1

0.614 3.73 2.29022 Allison Final Gear Ratio with 3.73
0.63 3.73 2.3499 Aisin Final Gear Ration with 3.73

The Duramax has a higher final gear ratio than your 3.73 RAM

1st Gear comparisons of final gear ratios

3.75 4.1 15.375 Aisin
3.75 3.73 13.9875 Aisin
3.75 3.42 12.825 Aisin
3.1 3.73 11.563 Allison

All three of the Aisin combo have a lower final gear ratio than the Duramax in 1st gear.

What do all these numbers tell us? The Diff ratio is only one part of the story. The Transmission ratios are in play along with the engine tune as to where peak torque and HP occur.



Why will you not post the speed and gear you tow in?

SnoKing
 
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Why would anyone with a choice, want to go from 0-60 mph with 5 gears and 29k when they could do the same thing with 6 gears? Why in the world would you want to "save" a gear?

Nick

There's no way your going to convince them of the reality of physics, easier to turn = better fuel mileage when loaded. They'll show you pics of how well the 3:42 has withstood the heavy weight they haul with them, and countless stories of I pulled grade XXXXX all day long and all is wonderful. I still think FCA poored CoolAid at the dealers while convincing people how wonderful the 3:42 is. I drove one and hated it when cursing RPM's went below what a CTD needs to maintain for proper HP and TQ. 1800 - 2100 RPM is the best range to get maximum efficiency and power whether your pulling or not, and efficiency doesn't mean MPG, it means the ease of the CTD to operate in. You can shift to any gear to maintain the RPM's I posted, but it doesn't change the fact, that the pressure on the rear diff causes more force than the 4:10, or even the 3:73. OP if your going to buy a truck for commercial operation get the 4:10. I don't like my 3:73 when towing heavy, let alone 3:42, it doesn't mean I think the 3:73 isn't capable, it just causes me to hunt for the right gear when climbing slight inclines (rolling hills) at low speeds. If heavy I rarely go into 6th, unless I'm on a slight decline. My reasons for the 3:73 (lowest option in 07 for THE G56) was predicted use at 50% City empty and 50% Commercial use at 26K GCVW.

OP, good luck with whatever you chose.
 
There's no way your going to convince them of the reality of physics, easier to turn = better fuel mileage when loaded. They'll show you pics of how well the 3:42 has withstood the heavy weight they haul with them, and countless stories of I pulled grade XXXXX all day long and all is wonderful. I still think FCA poored CoolAid at the dealers while convincing people how wonderful the 3:42 is. I drove one and hated it when cursing RPM's went below what a CTD needs to maintain for proper HP and TQ. 1800 - 2100 RPM is the best range to get maximum efficiency and power whether your pulling or not, and efficiency doesn't mean MPG, it means the ease of the CTD to operate in. You can shift to any gear to maintain the RPM's I posted, but it doesn't change the fact, that the pressure on the rear diff causes more force than the 4:10, or even the 3:73. OP if your going to buy a truck for commercial operation get the 4:10. I don't like my 3:73 when towing heavy, let alone 3:42, it doesn't mean I think the 3:73 isn't capable, it just causes me to hunt for the right gear when climbing slight inclines (rolling hills) at low speeds. If heavy I rarely go into 6th, unless I'm on a slight decline. My reasons for the 3:73 (lowest option in 07 for THE G56) was predicted use at 50% City empty and 50% Commercial use at 26K GCVW.

OP, good luck with whatever you chose.

More Apples and Oranges. A 07 tune with a manual transmission!
 
More Apples and Oranges. A 07 tune with a manual transmission!
Physics is all you have to calculate, to get the correct answer. I have never compared my G56 to any auto, however the same principal applies with any tune or MY for comparing 3:42/3:73/4:10/4:44/4:88, comparing those ratio's with the G56, (insert any trans) as to the ease of towing.
 
3500 DRW, Aisin AS69RC transmission and 4.10 axle ratio. Our 2016 Ram Longhorn crew cab long bed 3500 dually 4x4 so equipped is rated for 30,050# trailer tow and 39,100# GCWR. We tow a 19,000# GVWR DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA, but the larger DRVs can have GVWRs of 23,000# or more. If you're going to be oilfield hot shotting, you'd better be equipped to handle some significant loads on a gooseneck!
20171007_181654.jpg


20171007_181654.jpg
 
The RV was hauled to Rolling Retreats in Elk City, OK the Dealer I ordered it from. They did the PDI then shipped it to NW WA. The truck was HDT that hauled it both places.

I was at the DRV Factory and watched several new RV's leave some as heavy as mine and heavier by 3500 DRW trucks.

I suspect this is a silent recruitment like Hook and Tow that has to go over the 26000 LBS line in the sand. Maybe another broker with different requirements handles this brand. The OP should ask questions about obscure areas (stuff not on most brokers recruiter websites) like this as they could be more profitable. No reason to restrict one's self to 26000 LBS if your equipment can do more. (I am fuzzy on the cost differences in insurance, plates, etc. to go over 26000 LBS a question the OP needs to explore.) Still with questions asked the OP may find a different truck, HDT, may be a better choice again keeping in mind the broker is only paying for so much truck on the standard recruitment. This heavy trailer is a clear example of people you will meet at a fuel stop and wonder why the standard recruitment was silent on these areas.
 
I suggest you run real numbers before you get taken advantage of by one of the RV hauler brokers. A few make a go at it and many discover it doesn't pay ending up with a 1 year old truck that has 100K+ miles on it with a huge payment. Buying a new truck to get into the business is by far the worst way to go about it. Get as old of a truck as they will let you to save monthly payment costs. IMO the 5500 trucks are cheaper than 'everyone wants a Daily Driver diesel pickup' class. 50% loaded or less is BS! You got to drive out and pick up the RV to ship. Backhauls are a joke and if you do get a rare one it generally will have rotten tires costing you time. There is a lot to learn in Hot-Shot. RV hauling is flooded with cheap freight that retirees haul for fuel money to go somewhere. You will want to know your monthly cost: truck payment, insurance, tags, etc. to get a cost per day wheels rolling or not. Then you want your CPM, Cost per mile: loaded and unloaded. You can figure out if a trip is profitable or not when you know these numbers. A quick and dirty way to discourage you is look at what you earn in 100,000 miles ASSuming 50% loaded: $1.50 mile loaded for 50,000 miles is $75,000. That's the cost of a truck equipped. The truck burns fuel, lots of it! 50,000 miles unloaded at 18 MPG is 2777.8 Gal at $2.69 is $7472. Plus 50K miles loaded at 8MPG is 6250 gal at $2.69 is $16,812.50. That's $50,715 left over after just fuel. Take off insurance, meals, Comdata card fees (that you get paid on), hotels or sleep in the trailer when you got one hooked and the weather lets you (against the rules), 2 sets of tires $4000.00, ten oil changes $1000.00, $8400.00 in truck payments... You see where we just went below what a underpaid school teacher earns and you are working your butt off? Assuming nothing major breaks, the roof that pealed off due to shoddy workmanship didn't come out of your $1000 damage deposit, rolling target for DOT harassment didn't cost you a mint... You might ask about Hook and Tow where you load a trailer on a flatbed truck and tow another one behind you delivering 2 trailers at once. No they don't publish the profitable areas of RV hauling, but, IMO Hot Shot or hauling cars has more promise.[/QUOTE

I totally agree!!!

I don't know anything about all the costs stated above, but I know you do not want or need a new truck.

I own a 2003 2500 4x4 with a 3.74 rear end. I bought it to pull a 34 foot Airstream trailer. It had more than enough power to pull that trailer even in the mountains. It gets between 21 to 26 mpg on the road when not pulling a trailer It now has over 240,000 miles on it. I sold the trailer, but I kept the truck. I plan to keep it until the wheels fall off. I remember a Turbo Register article years ago about a guy who put 1,000,000 on a 1995 Dodge Ram and he did it pulling trailers for Airstream. It was a hell of a commercial for the Ram Diesel. He never overhauled the engine. I would have gotten the higher rear end if it were available. Bottom line, my truck has enough power to pull any trailer out there. A Ram with 150,000 miles on it is just broken in. I would look for one with the smaller engine and the high speed rear end. You don't need more than a 2500 either. I intended to buy a 3500, but I did not want a dually. In 2003 it cost extra to buy a 3500 without the dual rear wheels. Sounds dumb, but after looking at the fact that there was no difference in rated capacity, I went with the 2500.

Getting a Ram is the right decision. It is an incredible truck.

Dave
 
3500 DRW, Aisin AS69RC transmission and 4.10 axle ratio. Our 2016 Ram Longhorn crew cab long bed 3500 dually 4x4 so equipped is rated for 30,050# trailer tow and 39,100# GCWR. We tow a 19,000# GVWR DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA, but the larger DRVs can have GVWRs of 23,000# or more. If you're going to be oilfield hot shotting, you'd better be equipped to handle some significant loads on a gooseneck! View attachment 101579



DANG Rusty that's a good looking truck! :rolleyes:
 
get 3.72 or 4:10 rear end.
i'd get dulies. have 3500 w/srw
i'm set up for goose neck 5th wheel.
reese brand sells 20k goose neck hitches for 5'er, that bolt right on to rv.
be sure to sell old hitch, you paid for it.
have had mine for 1 yr., can't find a bad thing to say about it.

it takes 50k to break in 3500 (or 2500). there is some adaptive learning between the computer and your driving habits. that takes some time.
at 78k, my computer and my driving style are now in synch for last 5k miles.
8.4 mpg average, 6.7 to 9.5 depending on head wind and road grade.
i added triangle shaped aftermarket fuel tank for 60 gal. this is the best of my ideas.
 
I don't know anything about the economics of hauling, but YOU DON'T NEED A NEW TRUCK. I have a 2003 2500 4X4 with a 3.74 rear end and 6 speed manual that I bought to pull a 34 ft Airstream trailer. It has more than enough power to pull that trailer even in the mountains. I got rid of the trailer but still have the truck. I can't speak about loads over 10,000 lb. but I felt that my 3.74 rear end was over kill. There was a Turbo Diesel Register article yeas ago about a guy who put 1,000,000 miles on a 95 Ram hauling trailers for Airstream. In short you don't need a new truck. A Ram/Cummins is just broken in at 150,000 miles. From my experience, a 2500 is enough.
 
Absolutely, a 3500 minimum with dual wheels.
Mine is a 2014, 6.7, 6-speed with 196,000 miles pulling a 4-car Wally-MO trailer grossing 38,000#.
 
Lowest MPG we've gotten was towing through Big Horn mountains of Wyoming and was about 8.5. Highest MPG towing 10.6 coming East through sandhills of Nebraska (long gradual downgrade), highest not towing is about 18.5. Track all fuel use in Excel spreadsheet. 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn 4x4, 6.7 Aisin 3.42 rear end with all towing options (pucks for 5th wheel hitch, air suspension, aux switches, etc), SRW, long bed. Towing 35' 5th wheel weighing about 12,000#. Plenty of power for up grades, exhaust brake works great on down grades. Cycles between 5th and 6th gear on level terrain at 65 mph. 3.73 rear end would probably reduce this, keep in 6th more of the time. 17K miles at this point. Use Kiwi-3 OBD and Torque app on tablet or cell phone to track travel, engine, transmission parameters.
 
Lowest MPG we've gotten was towing through Big Horn mountains of Wyoming and was about 8.5. Highest MPG towing 10.6 coming East through sandhills of Nebraska (long gradual downgrade), highest not towing is about 18.5. Track all fuel use in Excel spreadsheet. 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn 4x4, 6.7 Aisin 3.42 rear end with all towing options (pucks for 5th wheel hitch, air suspension, aux switches, etc), SRW, long bed. Towing 35' 5th wheel weighing about 12,000#. Plenty of power for up grades, exhaust brake works great on down grades. Cycles between 5th and 6th gear on level terrain at 65 mph. 3.73 rear end would probably reduce this, keep in 6th more of the time. 17K miles at this point. Use Kiwi-3 OBD and Torque app on tablet or cell phone to track travel, engine, transmission parameters.

With TH on it should not shift into 6th until 65+ MPH. I tow a 16K 5th wheel with similar results. One of the TSB done last year solve hunting between 5th and 4th on grades. I tow in 5th all the time.
 
Lowest MPG we've gotten was towing through Big Horn mountains of Wyoming and was about 8.5. Highest MPG towing 10.6 coming East through sandhills of Nebraska (long gradual downgrade), highest not towing is about 18.5. Track all fuel use in Excel spreadsheet. 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn 4x4, 6.7 Aisin 3.42 rear end with all towing options (pucks for 5th wheel hitch, air suspension, aux switches, etc), SRW, long bed. Towing 35' 5th wheel weighing about 12,000#. Plenty of power for up grades, exhaust brake works great on down grades. Cycles between 5th and 6th gear on level terrain at 65 mph. 3.73 rear end would probably reduce this, keep in 6th more of the time. 17K miles at this point. Use Kiwi-3 OBD and Torque app on tablet or cell phone to track travel, engine, transmission parameters.

With TH on it should not shift into 6th until 65+ MPH. I tow a 16K 5th wheel with similar results. One of the TSB done last year solve hunting between 5th and 4th on grades. I tow in 5th all the time.
 
Anyone else want to take a stab at my GCW again? Hint.....truck comes in at 9,360....verified with a CAT Scale ticket.

Truck 9300
Bottom trailer 10k
Middle trailer 8k
Top trailer 6k

33,300 GCW.
 
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With TH on it should not shift into 6th until 65+ MPH.



There are too many variables to determine when a trans should and would shift up. Speed is only one of them.*

*with the caveat...I do not own an Aisin, so assuming they work like pretty much any other trans I've ever used, load, throttle pressure, speed etc are all factors used by the trans to determine when to shift....not just mph.
 
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