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What is the best setup for hauling 5th wheel campers ?

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The question as I see it. The best tow rig in an 18 or 19 Ram truck.. this was answered. 3500 or better DUALLY, AISIN, 4:10..that's it period..You cannot have the best towing and fuel mileage, ain't gonna happen. I have had an 04 itch a six speed stick.. I just traded in a 2015 with the 3:42s. On flat ground pulling the Montana the trans would hunt between 5th and 6th.. So towed in 5th. Aisin trans. Pulling the same load with the new 4:10 truck the rpms at 60 in 6th gear is about 1800 rpms. The 3:42 truck in 6th was 1450.. Tow rating on 15 was 16750, compared to over 31000 with 4:10s.. I do think you may look into a chassis cab 4500 or 5500 and buy a hauler bed..Once again, dually, 4:10, aisin..

RV brokers are NOT paying you to have the "Best". DRW is 2 more tires on the ground you don't need for hauling RV's - DRW is an extra expense of two additional tires wearing out at the same time. Stability and other reasons for DRW in regards to RV hauling are trumped by the need for reduced expense. The DRW is useless when you are deadheading back to get another RV.

The better 19.5" tires on a 5500 will give longer life and be ready for the heavier loads of Hot Shot. Regardless a RAM can be had cheaper in as old as a 2013 because they generally allow trucks up to 5 years old to be leased to the broker. (Exceptions are made for good looking older trucks esp. with prior experience - send them a picture.) The reduced payment of a used 2013 vs. a brand new 2018 is cash on the OP's table they can use for fuel. The brokers love new trucks because they don't pay for them and make money when the loads are delivered. In theory older trucks used hard break down more. New trucks also break down: Had to pick up a load from a new 2008 Dodge that blew the engine so badly the dealer eventually bought it back. Same for a truck that lost the clutch under warranty. No, the broker won't wait 1 day for you to get your truck fixed before they jack your load.

As far as reducing expenses we were greasing the front end every 3- 5000 miles and oil changes were pushed to the limits of the oil and filter at 10,000 miles. (It's $12.00 at a truck stop to have them grease the front end.) UOA wouldn't allow the dirty running 2008 EGR gagged DPF engine oil to go longer. At $100.00 per oil change there wasn't any early oil changes for "feel good" "good insurance" etc. reasons.

I am disappointed in the rear end ratio debate because the only thing that matters in this use case is IF the different ratios would provide even 0.5MPG improvement unloaded. Again reducing fuel expense, the biggest expense on the balance sheet, for 50%+ unloaded miles is really important. More important than "the ultimate tow rig" because RV's are simply "cute" vs. what you could get to haul as Hot Shot. If the OP was loaded 75% or more of the time or was going to do 50% or more Hot Shot then "ultimate tow rig" with a 5500 is more important. The wheels can be turning, but, you may not be making money. The debate of going 60 MPH unloaded has left off DOT Hours Of Service vs. 75 MPH that gives you an additional 165 miles traveled in a 11 hour day. Trailer tires are generally limited to 65 MPH so not much debate in going 75 MPH towing.

I am not debating "best tow rig" merely suggesting "The Bottom Line" is more important. Despite having a 25+ year old truck and an insane amount of repairs including a couple surplus used engines we made the most profit with the 1993 vs. the 2008. Esp. after putting a real turbo on it that improved the MPG. I tell the turbo story here: linky. I can buy a cargo trailer full of "forgotten diesel" parts with the $750.00 payment amount of a new truck.
 
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"There is always a gear reduction in the differential between your pinion and ring gear. This is not a variable gear ratio. The Final gear ratio is. Differential gear ratio x The Ratio Which You Select using your gear box lever."

So a 3.42 geared truck in 5th has a slightly lower final gear ratio than a 4.10 geared truck in 6th.

0.77 3.42 2.6334
0.63 4.1 2.583

Now move them to 4th in the 3.42 truck and 5th in the 4.10 geared truck.

1 3.42 3.42
0.77 4.1 3.157

And 3rd and 4th gear
1.34 3.42 4.5828
1 4.1 4.1

And 2nd and 3rd
2 3.42 6.84
1.34 4.1 5.494

And 1st and 2nd
3.75 3.42 12.825
2 4.1 8.2

For comparison, the 47RE with 4.10's in first gear.
2.45 4.1 10.045

These final two comparison shows why a 3.42 Aisin trannied truck can get a load moving.

Then there is 1st gear in a 4.10 Aisin truck at
3.75 4.1 15.375

Which Ron says it would be nice to lock out at times and start in second gear.

The 3.42 truck wins in 5 of the 6 gears in the comparison with slightly lower ratios. Add in the slightly shorter tires on the dually and they probably come even up.

All of that and the 3.42 has an excellent freeway cruise gear when not towing.

0.63 3.42 2.1546



A better comparison would involve comparing the two ratios while in the same gear.
This would demonstrate my point.....in any given gear, 3.73 will have slightly more rpm, and slightly more torque multiplication than 3.42....this equals more towing power. One shouldn't have to make a 6 speed a 5 speed to show its "advantage".

Again, I am not arguing any case either way for the Aisin's lower 1-3 gears. Yes, that is great, but that doesn't support an argument stating a higher R&P ratio will be better in the upper gears than a lower ratio. I understand the point that the Aisin allows one to make higher gears more livable (because it can get the load going better in its lower gears) there is just no basis for saying 3.42's are better than 3.73 at weights where one would logically want to step up.


It really is this simple....when it comes to moving weight, it's good (3.42), better (3.73), and best (4.10), one just needs to evaluate his needs so he doesn't get more gear than he needs (which only amounts to more rpm than needed a slightly less efficiency when not loaded).
 
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You can't compare a 6 spd auto with the 6spd G-56. The auto has 2 overdrives, the G-56 has one, the manual has a clutch the auto a torque converter. The G-56 is not offered in a pickup with a 4.10, it is too slow. It is offered with a cab/chassis.

Nick

Oh. Then that 3500 G56 Dually I test drove must have had 3.73 ratio.

It was a few years ago. Thanks for the info.

I must have read the build sheet wrong.

And those Cab and Chassis probably have the larger rims that I forgot are standard on the 4500 and up.

Interesting discussuon, tho.
 
back to the question.. DRW is for the PIN Weight. the larger the trailer the heavier the pin pushing the tow vehicle over its GVWR... The 4:10 pulls better.. the auto level levels the truck... Its not that hard.. No over thinking required...4 rear tires have twice the carrying capacity of two..
 
And those Cab and Chassis probably have the larger rims that I forgot are standard on the 4500 and up.

Ram hasn't specd an HD truck, 2500, 3500, 4500, or 5500 with 16" wheels since 2002.
 
Ram hasn't specd an HD truck, 2500, 3500, 4500, or 5500 with 16" wheels since 2002.

I think you might be mistaken. I'll check my 2013 build sheet/ window sticker that says my tradesman had 16 inch wheels standard....but upgraded to 17 in chrome. It was the last year they offered 17 in chrome clad steel wheels
 
back to the question.. DRW is for the PIN Weight. the larger the trailer the heavier the pin pushing the tow vehicle over its GVWR... The 4:10 pulls better.. the auto level levels the truck... Its not that hard.. No over thinking required...4 rear tires have twice the carrying capacity of two..

The capabilities of optional DRW are clear. However new unloaded RV's don't require DRW to remain within the ratings. Maybe if you run across a loaded "bunkhouse" for a carnival you may need DRW. Even if a new RV is too heavy for SRW you can still turn it down and ask for a lighter trailer to haul. So consider the extra purchase price expense, 2 extra tires wearing out, and the fact that you are not getting paid for the extra capacity of DRW. Yes, NOT PAID FOR DRW: The towing requirements of the lease we had with the RV broker were within the SRW's abilities and we could go back on the broker for dispatching us to tow more than the lease stated. It hurt less going to the tire store for new tires 2x that year. If you want the best tires skip the LT's and go for longer lasting commercial 19.5" tires where one tire can carry more than a dual configuration of LT's. Hauling slide in RV truck campers would change the equation. Hot Shot is the wildcard where DRW make sense if not just jumping to a 5500 with 19.5" rubber on it from the word go.
 
I think you might be mistaken. I'll check my 2013 build sheet/ window sticker that says my tradesman had 16 inch wheels standard....but upgraded to 17 in chrome. It was the last year they offered 17 in chrome clad steel wheels

Keep digging :-laf
 
I think it was the Tradesman that has 17" rims and all the higher models had 18 or 20" RIMs. I do not believe that 16 rims have cleared the calipers many years.
 
Door jamb sticker on my Tradesman

IMG_20180213_173528590.jpg


16" wheels went by the way side along with the gen 2. Sure would be nice to be able to keep the convo relevant rather than continuously have to correct the same individuals on misinformation they spread.

IMG_20180213_173528590.jpg
 
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I have 2 3500 Duallys. A 2011 with G56 and 3:42. and a 2017 with Asian and 4:10. I love the 2017 for towing our 5th wheel with. It's a 2014 Cardinal 3850rl with about 3000 lb. pin weight and about 16000 lbs total. And yes I know the exact weight but those numbers are real close. I know that comparing the 2 trucks is not the same because of the year models. The 2011 struggled and the pin weight dropped the rear more.The 2017 barely squats and I just put it in drive with tow mode and dont even think about it. It never hunts for gears and seldom downshifts. The fuel mileage is about the same at around 10 mpg running the same speed of 68-70 mph. And before anyone says I.m driving to fast for trailer tires I changed the trailer tires out to 17.5 Continental tires rated at 75 mph.
 
" However new unloaded RV's don't require DRW to remain within the ratings."

My DRV weighed 18,075# right out of the factory.

What broker hauled or would haul that? For example and what I base this off of: Horizon Transport's Towable Truck Requirements site is only up to a combo of 26,000 LBS. This doesn't leave you room at or below 26000 LBS to tow this trailer with the earlier posted curb weights of a 2015 diesel DRW.
 
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What broker hauled or would haul that? For example and what I base this off of: Horizon Transport's Towable Truck Requirements site is only up to a combo of 26,000 LBS. This doesn't leave you room at or below 26000 LBS to tow this trailer with the earlier posted curb weights of a 2015 diesel DRW.

Ron, had the DRV delivered to the NW. And I believe the same driver took his old one back to the Mid-west.
 
What broker hauled or would haul that? For example and what I base this off of: Horizon Transport's Towable Truck Requirements site is only up to a combo of 26,000 LBS. This doesn't leave you room at or below 26000 LBS to tow this trailer with the earlier posted curb weights of a 2015 diesel DRW.

Ron, had the DRV delivered to the NW. And I believe the same driver took his old one back to the Mid-west.
 
Ron, had the DRV delivered to the NW. And I believe the same driver took his old one back to the Mid-west.



The RV was hauled to Rolling Retreats in Elk City, OK the Dealer I ordered it from. They did the PDI then shipped it to NW WA. The truck was HDT that hauled it both places.

I was at the DRV Factory and watched several new RV's leave some as heavy as mine and heavier by 3500 DRW trucks.
 
It really is this simple....when it comes to moving weight, it's good (3.42), better (3.73), and best (4.10), one just needs to evaluate his needs so he doesn't get more gear than he needs (which only amounts to more rpm than needed a slightly less efficiency when not loaded).

God love your heart....the simplicity and total amount of common sense in the post above.......brings tears to my eyes and a lump in my throat.

And you mean it’s not OK for me to choose my axle ratio.....and I must go strictly by what I read on certain inter webs??? :-laf

On a side note.......has anyone else but ME noticed or recalled that GM has ONLY offered the 3.73 axle ratio in their 2500/3500 6.6L DuraMax trucks since the DuraMax was first introduced?????

Anyone else want to take a stab at my GCW again? Hint.....truck comes in at 9,360....verified with a CAT Scale ticket.
 
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