Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What to do to make my truck the best 5er puller

[Bob Cochran]

I was trying to decide between selling my truck and buying a class 8 tractor or keeping the truck. I think I will keep my Dodge, but having done this here is the question. Currently the truck is pretty much stock except the Super Chips reprogramming. The question what do I need to do to get a little more power put at the same time keep EGT's down when towing my 14,000# 5er. Also want to keep it as reliable as possible as well. I don't race, I don't care if I blow tons of black smoke, or slide pull or any of those things. Currently 111,000 + miles so warranty is not a part of the discussion. Recommendations on what to add, where to purchase and approximate cost. I am retired so a fixed income so I need the most bank for the buck. Thanks all for the help.

 

[Cummins724]

I was trying to decide between selling my truck and buying a class 8 tractor or keeping the truck. I think I will keep my Dodge, but having done this here is the question. Currently the truck is pretty much stock except the Super Chips reprogramming. The question what do I need to do to get a little more power put at the same time keep EGT's down when towing my 14,000# 5er. Also want to keep it as reliable as possible as well. I don't race, I don't care if I blow tons of black smoke, or slide pull or any of those things. Currently 111,000 + miles so warranty is not a part of the discussion. Recommendations on what to add, where to purchase and approximate cost. I am retired so a fixed income so I need the most bank for the buck. Thanks all for the help.

Sell the super chips & get a Smarty programmer. It is the best mod for a trailer puller because it gives all the trailer pulling power down low in the rpm band where it is needed. Another thing is a set of injectors..... rv275's would do a great job. They can be purchased for around $300... . The stock clutch is your weak link & may need upgraded to run anything bigger than you already have. The smarty is really aggressive on the low rpms, but you should be ok.

 

[BJMarshall]

I second what Cummins724 says. The RV275's with the smarty will really wake the truck up. A good 4" exhaust and a free flowing air filter will help too. An inexpensive hx35/40 hybrid turbo will keep egt's in check. Level 5 and you will have plenty of power to do what you want with ease.

 

[NoSeeUm]

Some pretty good advice above from my experiences. My advice is to go slow in uprating Hp after you add the exhaust / intake. Its pretty easy to reach a point where you will not be able to tow with out constantly staring at the EGT and thats not fun.



If you do add a performance box I would reccomend that you look into only the ones that it will automatically defuel based on EGT (high boost , transmission temp etc... ). That way you can add a few more ponies when running level or unloaded and the box will back off of things when things start to get hot.



Pay attention to what turbo you decide to get. With a larger one you might actually go backwards as far as high EGT's are concerned while towing. I found out, and it is not often discussed, is exactly what engine RPM will be required for the turbo to actually help out with lowering EGT. Mostly what is discussed about turbo's is what is the maximum Hp the turbo can support. But it also might mean that the engine might have to run at a higher RPM than you would be comfortable with grinding out allot of miles. And also what is often considered about turbo's are short blasts for max Hp, not grueling up a grade. So take a look at what RPM you would like to tow at go from there matching up your turbo choice.



In my case for towing I did pretty well with just the stock injectors, HX35 and a Smarty. I have a slide in camper and tow a small boat that adds about 5 or 6k to my GVW. But I am not sure how much you would like to pull or how fast you like to travel.



Jim

 

[Cummins724]

Some pretty good advice above from my experiences. My advice is to go slow in uprating Hp after you add the exhaust / intake. Its pretty easy to reach a point where you will not be able to tow with out constantly staring at the EGT and thats not fun.



If you do add a performance box I would reccomend that you look into only the ones that it will automatically defuel based on EGT (high boost , transmission temp etc... ). That way you can add a few more ponies when running level or unloaded and the box will back off of things when things start to get hot.



Pay attention to what turbo you decide to get. With a larger one you might actually go backwards as far as high EGT's are concerned while towing. I found out, and it is not often discussed, is exactly what engine RPM will be required for the turbo to actually help out with lowering EGT. Mostly what is discussed about turbo's is what is the maximum Hp the turbo can support. But it also might mean that the engine might have to run at a higher RPM than you would be comfortable with grinding out allot of miles. And also what is often considered about turbo's are short blasts for max Hp, not grueling up a grade. So take a look at what RPM you would like to tow at go from there matching up your turbo choice.



In my case for towing I did pretty well with just the stock injectors, HX35 and a Smarty. I have a slide in camper and tow a small boat that adds about 5 or 6k to my GVW. But I am not sure how much you would like to pull or how fast you like to travel.



Jim

He won't have egt issues with the smart or with smarty/rv275 injectors..... I think he would be happy with adding a set of rv275 injectors & the Superchips combined should be a good combo. We all know that the smarty is top choice for a towing truck, but at a limited budget... . the injectors will go a long way. I ran a set of 90hp injectors, edge comp, intake, exhaust for a year & loved it for towing & never had egt issues.

 

[CToney]

My brothers '01 HO 6spw/ 3. 54 gears has Edge EZ, 4" flowmaster exhaust, BHAF, and a FASS. The truck pulls really well. It makes 32psi of boost and doesn't have any egt issues at all. I think if he added any more power ie injectors he would have to do some turbo mods. The 4" exhaust, air intake, and FASS all help egts and boost power. He reduced egts and got 2 psi more boost with the FASS. Maybe injectors would be ok but he'd have to watch the egts up a grade.

 

[johncameron]

My truck tows like a dream with the SMARTY on SW3 and my DDII injectors. I don't tow extremely heavy so my injectors aren't too much.



John

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Bob Cochran,



My truck is almost a spittin' image of yours except the rearend ratio is 3. 55 and my AFE air box. I have put over 270,000 miles on it and it now has 510,000 miles, about half of it delivering campers across the US. It was bone stock when I bought it and I shortly added RV275 injectors which made a difference in pulling hills/mountains power wise without hurting egt's too much. The Catcher was added when it became available and made a HUGE difference power wise; no grade could really slow me down no matter what was hitched on back. The Smarty was added and it helped even more. Zero egt issues no matter what the conditions.



RV275's, Smarty, and air filter upgrade. You will not be disappointed and you will be very pleased.



Godspeed,

Trent

 

[rweis]

I run DD II's, Smarty, I got a turbo that is too big an spools slowly, did the ScottyII and 4" exhaust.



BEFORE the gear swap (3. 54 > 4. 10) (I know you have 4. 10, but this is also for guys that might be thinking gear swap) WOT 32# 1000* but hard to get the 5er moving until you got to 50 mph or so, then fine, but if you got to lower towing speeds you were running in 2nd manuallu locked in until you could get back into D (O/D out).



AFTER going to 4. 10 WAY better low end acceleration WOT 32# 900* but lost about 1 1/2 mpg. Can use O/D now, much better drivability transmission wise.



I drive at 65 MAX regardless towing or not. At 65 in O/D rpm = 2k, before in O/D out rpm = 2. 4k. The gear change is just what the too big turbo needed. Was 4# cruise in O/D and slow to spool, Now 6# cruise in O/D and ready to go whenever needed. Before O/D out 2. 4k rpm towing 10# Now in O/D 2k rpm towing 10#. If you drive faster (75 - 80 mph), then maybe 4. 10 not a good choice.



Basically the gear swap increased the rpms about 600 across the board.



$ / # I think Smarty first, injectors second, 4. 10 third, turbo fourth but do NOT go too big. Unless you go over 400 hp the stock exhaust is supposed to be ok. Exhaust brake = definitely if in mtns much, not so much if in flat lands. Air box upgrade probably (the thing HAS to breathe).



I tow 13k 5er high profile (Alfa) in mainly flat lands



Bob Weis



BK advised not going over DD II's (80hp) so the egt did get out of hand, and he was absolutely right. My wife drives about 50% and I never have to worry about watching the egt. WOT before gear swap and she could not go over 1000* maybe 1100*, now 900* max (WOT and held there).

 

[JKinney]

Bob Cochran,



My truck is almost a spittin' image of yours except the rearend ratio is 3. 55 and my AFE air box. I have put over 270,000 miles on it and it now has 510,000 miles, about half of it delivering campers across the US. It was bone stock when I bought it and I shortly added RV275 injectors which made a difference in pulling hills/mountains power wise without hurting egt's too much. The Catcher was added when it became available and made a HUGE difference power wise; no grade could really slow me down no matter what was hitched on back. The Smarty was added and it helped even more. Zero egt issues no matter what the conditions.



RV275's, Smarty, and air filter upgrade. You will not be disappointed and you will be very pleased.



Godspeed,

Trent

Trent; Are you still running the stock clutch?

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

JKinney,



Great question! I tend to forget about this factor.



Just before I bought the truck the PO trashed the NV5600 - I don't know how but my guess is he left it in 6th gear pulling campers through the mountains on the way to Cali and the heat generated from lugging the engine (which also means lower transmission rpm's) did it. Not for sure but that is my guess. He had a Jasper reman installed and, thankfully, a better clutch because I am unable to slip it with the Smarty and a 20,000# gross trailer.



If I had to put in a clutch there would be no thinking about it - SBC conOFE single disk. Having sold, installed, and watched guys abuse SBC clutches, having met Peter who showed me around his shop, the great customer service, my mind is already made up. Not dissing other clutch companies.



rweis,



When I was buying a truck to pull campers full time I specifically limited myself to the 6spd because of what you say. I had a '96 auto that was completely stock and pulled trailers of varying kind, size and weight. The auto will not let the engine really work until the torque convertor is locked up. I know, I could have installed the "WORKS" of an auto transmission from several different shops and gotten much better than stock performance but I didn't want to buy a truck and sink more $ into it to get the performance I wanted & knew was available with the 6 spd. The idea was to make $ with the truck pulling campers. Do I like driving an auto? Yes. But not pulling a load frequently behind a stock one. Not trying to cramp your style, just sharing my decisions and experiences for the benefit of others just as you have.



Godspeed,

Trent

 

[ScottLewis]

All are great suggestions for getting you up the hill more efficiently. My thought is that you need an exhaust brake to get you down more safely. Being able to set it in the right gear coming down a long, steep slope and get to the bottom without touching the service brakes allows for easy breathing and low pulse rate.



Dan

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

danavilla,



Couldn't agree with you more! I 'spect 5 years have been added to my life because of that exhaust brake!



Godspeed,

Trent

 

[Cummins724]

danavilla,



Couldn't agree with you more! I 'spect 5 years have been added to my life because of that exhaust brake!



Godspeed,

Trent

Ditto... . exhaust brake is a must have. It pays for itself in the first year! :-laf First time I tried it was unbelievable how much nicer I am to the guys that pull in front of me in town.

 

[AKAMAC]

Sell the SC unit! It is not the best bang for the buck.



If you are concerned with cost, you might try a used Edge EZ. They are usually available for less than $200. If that doesn't suit your needs it is easy to sell for what you have into it.



The opinions above are good but the 275s are not fuel friendly. A set of EDM injectors will pay for themselves in time. I gained 2-3 MPG going from them to the 1. 6 EDMs and enjoyed an increase in HP to boot.



I wish I had an exhaust brake when I towed. That would be the #1 Bomb for towing.



If you are able to do the installation yourself you can have a tow unit that won't win races but will hold speed on grades with ease and slow you down on the south side for less than 2 grand. Smarty (low end getup), EDM 1. x injectors (smooth power addition), Ex brake (no more white knuckle stops).

 

[Cummins724]

Sell the SC unit! It is not the best bang for the buck.



If you are concerned with cost, you might try a used Edge EZ. They are usually available for less than $200. If that doesn't suit your needs it is easy to sell for what you have into it.



The opinions above are good but the 275s are not fuel friendly. A set of EDM injectors will pay for themselves in time. I gained 2-3 MPG going from them to the 1. 6 EDMs and enjoyed an increase in HP to boot.



I wish I had an exhaust brake when I towed. That would be the #1 Bomb for towing.



If you are able to do the installation yourself you can have a tow unit that won't win races but will hold speed on grades with ease and slow you down on the south side for less than 2 grand. Smarty (low end getup), EDM 1. x injectors (smooth power addition), Ex brake (no more white knuckle stops).

I agree 100%, but I only recommended the rv275's because he said that he has a limited budget & they are a good bang for the buck. If money is no issue... . of course the 100hp injectors are great.

 

[jeeping_0]

I have an 01 6spd HO with a Banks power pack(that I would recomend to any tow rig owner)but I'm ready for more power after 5 years on the power pack. After searching here I'm looking at injectors. My question is would rv275's only add 30 HP to my already 245 HP (stock) engine?I'm leaning toward a set of 100 HP injectors,but if I go too big my Ottomind will just defuel and I'm waisting money on an injector that I cant support egt wize. Any sugestions?

 

[johncameron]

I have an 01HO with the Banks ottomind 5 which is one level higher than the powerpack. I have DDii's and a smarty and the trio is awesome. I can't tow with everything flat out as EGT's get out of sight. I installed a switch on eh VP-44 pump wire so when I tow I use the smarty on SW3 and the injectors. I also tapped the elbow after the turbo so I can move the pyro post turbo for drag racing or dynoing.



You can add 100HP injectors to the powerpack but you will be limited by EGT's towing heavy. That feature is a good thing for heavy towing but a bit of a bummer for short drag racces



You have options, don't just ditch the powerpack like many others here on TDR will tell you.



John

 

[jeeping_0]

Thanks John. My ottomind is on 5. I started with a cheap 4" exhaust,guages, and a K&N drop in. I called Banks and got the waste gate actuator and Ottomind,Stinger level(2). I eventually had the Ottomind reflashed to level 5 and got the Qwick Turbo and High Ram. I have about $1400 in my pieced together power pack. My brother has an 06 with a K&N cold air intake,5" exhaust,Triple Dog Crazy Larry (240HP),and Bully Dog Outlook ($1700). They are both 3/4 ton 4x4. He has an auto,I'm 6spd. From a stop light he'd (1650*)smoke me(1300*)(both literally and speed),but in a road race they are identical,which suprised me since I'm running RVers 145HP good for towing only,slow,efficient,safe,overpriced,over-rated,bla bla bla,against 240HP race stuff. And I don't have to turn it off to pull,and I get 5mpg better. No offence to any one,his truck runs great smokes Mustangs, Comeros,HEMI's and the likes daily. After being educated on TDR I MIGHT bomb my next truck differently. I know there a lots of faster trucks out there but not in my area,and my trucks for towing not racing(which IS fun,especially if you win). I certainly appriciate everyones input on TDR,good advice earned the hard and expensive way is piceless.

 

[jeeping_0]

Anybody on the 275's question?