2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What to look for?

[TrqMonster]

Can you guys please help me out? I am looking at buying a 2000 4X4 with an automatic that has about 65000 miles on it. Can you give me some tips on what to look for as far when test driving/ looking over prospective vehicle. Are there already things posted on this topic. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.



I also just found a 1998 with a 5speed and 140000 miles. It has the 24v. Any help on what to look out for would be appreciated

 

[y-knot]

The first thing to do is a very, very close inspection. Under the truck you should be looking for leaks, loose broken wires, tubbing. Look for signs of abuse, like dented exhaust,cross members, drive shafts. Check out the exhaust, it probably needs replacement, and this is a leverage point for a price reduction. Was it used for heavy towing, look for signs of an old gooseneck/fiver hitch. Check the shocks, are they leaking oil? are they the originals? Tires, are they cheap -o replacements? are they the right size?



Under the hood, look for general appearance. Does it look right. Many times when a dealer does a quick power wash, and coats down everything with the tire dressing, they are trying to cover things up. Like old hoses, belts, ect. What type filter does it have? Oil has probably been changed, but look anyway. The one ITEM YOU DON'T WANT TO FORGET is the auto trany. After it is warmed up and run thru the gears, check the level. Look at the color, is it bright red?? If it is dark in color, smell the fluid, does it smell burned?? If so plan on a trany soon, again this could be more leverage on price. But remember tranys are expensive, but in all honesty, and truck that is older then 3 years, or over 60,000 mile I would be concerned. Trany's are the week spot automatic or manual, they both have problems. On the inside of the cab, look at the pedal, are they worn badly? does it look like they match the miles indicated. Some dealer will throw on new rubber covers, watch those. Also the worn rubber pads on a newer vehicle indicate much stop and go, like maybe a delivery truck, stay away from them. Make sure all the controls are functional, try each one. Ac repairs are expensive so try it now.

On the test drive feel for any odd vibrations, does it pull bad to one side, how about when you brake? How are the brake?? does the emergency brake work?? check it. Put the transfer case into 4x4, does it engage smoothly? does the 4wheel drive indicator light come on? Can you feel the front tires when in 4 wheel drive? Transfer cases are very expensive, so make sure.



The most important thing is for you to trust your "gut" feeling. Usually our instincts are right on, so leave the emotions out of the purchase, and look with both eye wide open. Good luck

 

[johnrv4]

See if they will let you check the lift pump pressure.

Do a search here about the 24V lift pump problems. If the selling parties will let you, fix up a gage and check the lift pump pressures. You might be looking at a truck that has had a dead lift pump for a lot of miles which might get expensive if the VP 44 is ready to crap out. I looked at a '98 24V for my friend, and the owner agreed to let me check the lift pump (which was dead). No telling how long it had been dead, and the owner didn't want to fix it because "it still runs good". Just something to think about.

 

[Hohn]

I might get in troule for saying this, but I would stay clear of the '98 24V. The first run or two of the 24V are notorious for VP failures, '53 block cracks, and even a KDP on the 24V!



I would personally say a 2000 is the oldest 24V I would go to. If not that, go '03 or newer HPCR or even older with a 12V.



While the 24V trucks are still VERY reliable and durable, they aren't up to the standards of the 12V trucks or even the new HPCR 24V trucks with the Bosch CP3.



Justin

 

[Clinton]

When shopping for 4x4s, look for off-road abuse. Look at the bottom of the differentials for skid marks. Look at the fuel tank for dents. Look at the transfer case skid plate for gouges. If you see bad signs in these places the truck has had a hard life. That doesn't mean it isn't worth buying, but it'll likely have sloppy u-joints, carrier bearing, ball joints, steering gear, etc.