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Who is using Alfa OBD?

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Front axle R&R pass side 2014 2500 4x4

Add a 12v outlet

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Question for anyone using windows - are you using bluetooth or do you have a wired connection to the OBD2?

I don't have an Android and my laptop is too old for bluetooth. I can buy a bluetooth adapter for the laptop but figured I'd ask first.
 
Definitely buy an Android Tablet.
They do not cost a lot and are state of the Art, with Adapters and old Hardware it's always win or lose.
 
Just be exteremly careful with the bypass module.... Make sure it gets plugged in all the way...I would disconnect the PDC power cable first than unplug the SGM.

If you buy the tablet you will NEED take it with you, the Phone App generally you always carry when you travel.

Getting to the SGM with Big Hands on 2019 a PITR, W/O removing the knee bolster.

The table will be considerably less cost than the phone. Or You can buy the Phone used and download Apps VIA WIFI W/O Phone service carrier.

I don't recommend B/T and windows VIA B/T adapter, who knows what Microsoft will do to make the connection suffer. and Most B/T connection are slow VIA external Adapter.
 
Anyone run the stationary desoot through Alpha yet?

Coming up on my annual oil change so I ran one Sunday evening. It ran approximately 40-45 minutes (says up to 80 minutes) and abruptly stopped. I never got a completed message, actually it never came off the "in process" message. So I'm not sure if it ran it's full course? One thing I may have screwed up was my fuel level was on the low side. I drove about 20 miles after the desoot and my low fuel light came on. Maybe it stopped due to low fuel level?

Two things stood out during this process. I figured I'd see higher temps at the dpf outlet, around 900F. I've seen higher temps out of an active regen rolling down the road.
Also, there is some serious heat load being put into the cooling system! The fan fully engaged every 1-2 minutes. I ended up opening the hood to help disapate the heat.

One thing for sure, I haven't seen this out of my dpf Delta since I started monitoring it. So it definitely made a difference.

IMG_20191027_175824068.jpg
 
JR its all normal.

As I mention always open hood during Stationary De-soot. The actual temps are much hotter that the transition gauges display. Accept for coolant and oil temps... Lube is 20-30 lower then display and coolant is dead on.

The best way to burn the ash out is the sniff test, Your exhaust will have a very distinct smell, at first and will disappear when it ALL burned out..

All My vehicles have a much higher ammonia Smell when Stationary De-soot is engaged. My Guest its the lower concentrate of Urea, At times I had to engage De-soot 3-4 times to get it all clean out, and at times I've had to drive (around the block) after 1 or 2 De-Sooting to re-engage.

No of the C to F.
 
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Thanks Todd. Is there a fuel level cutoff that will interrupt the desoot process, or does the ecm need to see a certain% for desoot to even start. I'm just wondering if the process completed or was it interrupted? The message never changed once the engine went back to idle.
 
The CTS2 doesn’t show soot loading, they claim it’s an inaccurate PID on these motors???, but it does show DPF differential pressure. After any decent towing it’s down to 0.00psi at idle.
 
This should help with the C to F problem?
https://www.scangauge.com/support/user-manuals/

Thanks Ozy, I was referring to the Alpha. They only show in C.

The CTS2 doesn’t show soot loading, they claim it’s an inaccurate PID on these motors???, but it does show DPF differential pressure. After any decent towing it’s down to 0.00psi at idle.

I've watched it for a few years now and it seems pretty accurate, or at least consistent in regards to % leading up to a regen.
It's also at a lower % now since I did the desoot than it has ever been since I started watching it
 
Don't you the % for cleaning...The ash will from over years and NOT be detected until $$$$ in repairs.. Use the sniff test. No smell No ash to burn....
 
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