Here I am

would like to hear from some of you that are useing boidiesel

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Class 8 HYBRID's

Oh Boy - a Hydrogen generator for our Diesels..

I may try to start making biodiesel

for my truck

I can get some used fry oil

and some of these biodiesel web sites with there premixed kits

make it look easy

if it will make my truck run better

and last longer

as well as being cheaper than diesel

why not:-{}
 
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I know a few people who process their own bio. Simple process I'm told. The biggest problem appears to be the disposal of the glycerin (by product). I hear its fine to throw it onto the compost pile.
 
If I may add one thing. PLease filter the fuel EXTREAMLY well. Although I do not deal with many people using homemade bio that much. In the last 6 months I have replaced two injection pumps for one reason only. The bio that they were making was not filtered properly and my pump shop found a lot crud in the pumps from the fuel they were making. It was not filtered properly. Just a little heads up. If you process the bio correctly you should have no problems.



Richard
 
I've been running B20 for about 8 months now. I don't make my own, a local station sells it for a slight premium over regular diesel. I notice my truck runs quieter on it, and haven't noticed a drop in mileage. When ULSD came out, I started running a lubrication additive, but with B20, I don't. I am very happy with it, and would run B100 if I could find it.
 
I have been running B100 that I make for the past 2 years.

Use a 2 micron filter ahead of the lift pump. After washing and removing the water, I filter it through 10, 5, 2 micron bag filters. Next I heat it to 230 degrees and let it sit for a couple weeks and only use the upper 2/3 of the drum each time.
 
I have ran waste oil, diesel, JP5 (jet fuel refined diesel) and biodiesel. Biodiesel willl clean up all the sludge left from years of running diesel, I went through a couple of 7 micron filters in intial testing. Now I change the filters less often then before.



Any time you are using any fuel from a transfer tank of any type it needs to be filtered before going into your truck.



Also a good inline cartridge filter that filters to about 3 mictons is reallly good. I like to be able to see what the fitler is doing and what the fuel looks like.
 
BioDiesel

Have been using b100 for 5 tanks now. Had white smoke at start-up, but I changed the fuel filter and seems to be ok now. Fuel is going through a 2 micron filter before going into my truck.
 
been running B99 soybean oil and/or recycled fryer oil type bio for a year now and it runs great--just change the fuel filter regularly.
 
I've been running B100 off and on for a couple of years with no problems. I haven't made my own because I just haven't bothered looking for a source. I wouldn't be afraid to do it though
 
50/50 mix of bio(homemade) and Offroad in an old IH 1494 tractor for hay making for three years now. Loves it and quiter operation.

Rig gets 10% mix approx. when I get time or a pt. of 2 stroke at fill up at the pump.
 
I have used approximately 450 gallons of B99. 9 biodiesel. My gtruck loves it. ~1. 5 mpg lower than straight #2. Truck is way quieter. Exhaust smells like french fries are being cooked.
Now I have an Air Dog for sound fuel pressure to my VP-44. Truck loves the bio and as long as the price is close to the price of #2 I run it. If I am no where near the station where I buy the bio then I will get #2.
Filtration is the key when burning your own.
 
I am brewing and using my own biodiesel. Currently, I am running b50 with the cooler temps. It isn't too hard to make, but it isn't as easy as the cheapo plastic processor people make it look. A lot of things can go wrong, so you still have to know what you're doing.
 
I have been making my own and running B-100 in my truck for a year now. My truck has been running just fine on it. I did alot or research before I started. The best book I read was called " From the fryer to the fuel tank ". The book said as long as you do the glycern seperating process proplerly, you do not need to wash it. I change the filter around 6k and it looks almost new. I had 2 inccidents, one was in the beginning using so bad oil. Truck was hard to start up ran rough for a few mintues blew alot of white smoke and then burned through the rest no problem. The other was just a few weeks ago when I did not perform any kind of winterizing, temp hit 32F overnight and the fuel filter clogged. New fuel filter some #2 in the tank and was on my way.

The truck had a good check up about 6 weeks ago. Engine is fine the injectors are fine.

Fuel flow is normal. No engine problems to speak of.

I decided to purchase a system online. It was less expnsive than most of the ones you see. The less exspensive one had some trade offs. I had to assemble it, less automation and pvc piping was used. Roughly about $600 of actual material.

Your first batch is always the most difficult, mainly the titration test. I would not have minded someone holding my hand for my first batch but I got through it just fine. Other than knowing how much methanol and lye to use and figuring out how you want to heat the oil up, you can make it as simple as putting everything in a 55 gal drum and using a drill and heavy duty paint mixer to mix it, I've done it. Yes thier is a little more detail but you get my point.

I have alot of good info for getting your titration supplies together at little cost. You can make some small batches in your kitchen. Hope this helps.

Wyatt

Atlanta, GA
 
I do not recommend running bio that isn't washed in some fashion, either with water or a dry wash product. I should post a picture of what finished, unwashed bio looks like compared to finished, washed bio. I will always wash my fuel. I also don't recommend making bio in a processor that has plastic anywhere.



You can get titration supplies or a titration kit at Utah Biodiesel Supply - Biodiesel Homebrewing Supplies, Equipment, Processors and Information. It is an excellent site for anyone interested in biodiesel, too.
 
ZBrooks

I have seen pictures of the difference in washed B100. I currently have 50lbs of purolite for dry washing. I know dirty fuel can harm and engine. Unwashed has used as mention by the book I refered to. I decided to give it a try and see for myself. I have not had any issues, YET. I agree I hope that I am not shooting myself in the foot. I am in the process of designing a new system to dry wash. When I am finished I will probaly start washing again, but now I have less fears of using unwashed atleasted when its my brew.

I have dont alot of reading and I would agree that a metal processor is the best, What is the issue of concern with the poly cone processor?

Utah Biodiesel Supply is a great site and resource. I recommend anyone to check it out. I have purchased items and got good info there. If I had the money I would love to get one of thier processors.
 
I've been running at least a B20 in my '05 since February of this year. Just make sure to change the fuel filter after 2000 - 3000 miles, especially if your truck is high mileage. Mine only had 27K on it, and the fuel filter was starting to gum up at 4000 miles from the biodiesel's cleaning of my fuel system.



I've set up a system to make my own as well, but I haven't actually had time to make any as of yet. I have Purolite to dry-wash mine as well, and have heard good things about it from guys who make much more than I ever plan to.
 
Been running anywhere from B20-B100 for last year, in both my 95 and 05, both actually run better on it then #2 w/o additive in it. The bio gives the lubrication and burns cleaner, see better milage out of B20 then anything. Both trucks have high milage so changed out my fuel filters every 2 tankfulls for 6 tankfulls, then went back to my regualr 5-10k miles.
 
I run B20 when night time lows get below 55* when it warms up and I don't have to worry bout the temps I go to B100. Truck loves it, I have run cottonseed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, pig fat and chicken fat. All Processed and refined of course. The best so far has been canola, I can tell the difference in how the truck runs with it. One thing I do notice is that my fuel pressure drops about 2 psi overall, the only reason I can think of for this is that the plant oils are a little thicker and heavier. Cottonseed oil will drop it more due to it being alot thicker. I need to upgrade my L. P to keep this from happening but so far the stocker on the frame rail has held up. You definitely want to keep an eye on your fuel filters for the first few tanks like stated above it will clean your fuel system.
 
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