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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) would you stick with the 12v or the 24v

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12v or 24v

  • 12v

    Votes: 133 89.3%
  • 24v

    Votes: 16 10.7%

  • Total voters
    149
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I am just wondering if you had a choice would you run a 12 v or a 24 v engine. I do know that the 24 v pump does have some issues with it and fail. I am just wondering if I am making the right decision on the right motor. If you want you can say why either way.



Thanks Joe
 
i'm the one ...



i like the ability to adjust power levels ...



driving easy ... box off



powerstroke or duramax needs a spanking 200 hp at the flip of a switch ...



adjusting fire suit ...
 
I was thinking of trading off my 98 12v 3500 for a newer rig, but after talking with many of the people who sell parts I'll be keeping my truck for the forseable future. I'd love to have a new Megga cab with my 12'r bolted up to a new 6 speed auto, but I don't think that's gonna happen.
 
Well it looks like maybe I got the right engine after all . I bought a 97 6bt. I just can't figure out why the 12v is better then the 24v. I guess it is just all the electronics are just a pita or maybe because I heard the pumps are bad.



Maybe I should of said 24v with a p pump on it as choice 3. . lol
 
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There is a guy on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum who has a '99 and put a 12 valve in it. He says that works better and is cheaper than putting a P7100 on a 24v.
 
I've got a 12v so I love the 12v. Any cummins, or for that matter any inline motor, beats the alternative. Coulda had a V8! Its a good thing the readers of the 12v forum aren't biased at all.
 
One of the reasons i converted to the 12 valve was because i was sick of all of the electronic problems i had with the Powerstroke. Last weekend i was with a guy who'd put a 24 valve in his Super Duty. The engine had been in the truck 7 months and he hadn't gotten all of the electrical stuff working well enough to drive the truck until that very afternoon.

Many racers and sled pullers also agree that the P7100 is capable of more power. No worry about throwing DTCs, you tune the machine to run the way you want. Fewer valves means fewer parts. I will only want to use 12 valves in future conversions.

If you just want to be able to adjust and limit your horse power, you can do that to a 12 valve for a fraction of the price of even the cheapest computer chips. Everyone still asks me if i have a chip in my truck, even after i tell them it has no computer. Maybe i should come up with a clever remark and point to the rock chips in the paint.
 
Hey MMcCallie,



I always get asked if I have a chip too. Yeah, I think there may be a bag in the back, maybe even a few under the seat:-laf.



12 valves rule!! As far as adjustability goes, a valet switch does pretty good for me. It cuts the power just enough to tow but not so much you can't have fun.
 
ive run both. both had their share of problems. i like them both for different reasons. personaly i would run either one.



you need to add and either options
 
Definitely pro and con with both . . . I've owned both and 12V definitely aren't the cure all to end all. To me the best combination doesn't exist. . . it's a 24V engine (particularly a 3rd Gen motor) with p-pump that has variable timing and electronic servo controls replacing the mechanical governor.

Compared to a 24v the 12v can make power for cheaper and plenty of raw power, but tends to have more drivability issues at higher HP levels and doesn't run as smoothly, and makes quite a bit more smoke. But IF set up carefully and well tuned & balanced they can run good.
 
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It sure didn't seem like luck at the time, but I had a good GMC 3/4 t with a junk 6. 5. I was on my 5th injector pump (37,000mi on the clock) when I sold it back to the dealer, who also was a Dodge dealer. I really liked the tailpipe on the Dodge, so he sold me one at his cost, (he said).



I've still got the Dodge, no interest in any other truck, including a new CTD.



Be sure the KDP is done!



You guessed it: 12V. Just dumb luck.



Tom
 
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After not owning either a 12v or 24 I still vote 12v for all the reasons stated above.



  • Non-electronic no Drive-by-wire

  • Less valves per cylinder, the valvetrain is always the weakest link in any engine.

  • Basically to Diesel what SBC is to Gasoline



But, the 24v does have one thing going for it (relating to the comment about about a DS4 IP equipped 6. 5L) is that it IS electronic.



One point to make about electronics is variable timing, and a more consistent running, especially idle, good idle quality.



The ol 6. 5's with the mechanical injection pump always idle poorly, but the DS4 electronic ones ran smooth and started easier (timing).



Best of luck in the conversion, no tears over a 6. 5 being replaced for sure.
 
My 12 valve idles extremely smooth. Perhaps because i have quad engine mounts from autoworld.com. It is so smooth you could set a glass full of water on it and not expect it to spill.

I like what 12 Ford was saying. My truck has some rock chips but i hear you can actually stack those potato chips! Potato chips can be installed anywhere in the truck as long as you don't mind the mess. Brands vary as far as effects on gas and mileage. Corny, huh?
 
I've often thought about trading my 12V for a 24V. I love the tunablily of a 24v vs. the all out power of a 12v. The 24V spool faster, and produce less smoke. I love to see smoke at certain points, and it's not all the time.



Yes i've drove both trucks daily, and since i don't sled pull or race i'd prefer the 24V.



Curtis
 
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