2004 2500 5.9 ABS problems that I CAUSED

[keith/04/2500]

I have a 04 5.9 manual trans, was cleaning the battery cable, didn't disconnect grounds from battery, dropped the positive cable on the brake lines on the ABS unit. Had hands full of stuff, it arc'd and got the little brake line it was on EXTREMELY hot. Now...every ABS light on dash is lit, Fuse #6 (the long green 40A dodge fuse with clear top} blows. replaced it once, blew immediately. WTH have I fried, how can I fix? How much will it cost me? Tickle me. I cant win for losing.

 

[Crunch]

WTH have I fried, how can I fix? How much will it cost me?

Definitely sounds like something shorted out inside. I have a different problem with my ABS unit, and unless using Deoxit D5 on the connections fixed it I'm going to have to send mine in for repairs, as well. Here's the thread, which lists two places that can look at it and fix it if possible. Not sure what it's going to cost you, though:

ABS/Brake Light Loose Connection

Keep us informed on how it works out.

 

[Timd32]

Get a FSM and a DVMM for sure. Trace out fuse 6, you could have put some serious current thru your ground paths.

If you call one of those places maybe they can give you a base line resistance for the power supply of the module in question, then you can tell if its completely fried, the resistance can vary greatly, besides being completely shorted out due to the current flow thru the device to ground.

I only have an 2006 FSM on my phone, so for example Fuse 6 is still a 40A but is showing for the wastgate and drive fan stuff, so no help there.

 

[keith/04/2500]

Get a FSM and a DVMM for sure. Trace out fuse 6, you could have put some serious current thru your ground paths.

If you call one of those places maybe they can give you a base line resistance for the power supply of the module in question, then you can tell if its completely fried, the resistance can vary greatly, besides being completely shorted out due to the current flow thru the device to ground.

I only have an 2006 FSM on my phone, so for example Fuse 6 is still a 40A but is showing for the wastgate and drive fan stuff, so no help there.

Would it have more likely fried the ABS pump, or the module? BOTH maybe? Man I am bummed. This was a good truck albeit a farm truck. Flatbed, bale spikes etc...till I hit a deer with it. I just got the front end all back together, replaced the rad, air cooler, AC cond...was getting it running for the first time, and I do this ***** I CAN'T BE BOTHERED WITH RULES AND CUSS WHEN I POST ****** getting the batteries back in order because of the crappy cables. IT SUCKS. I hope I can get the ABS working right again. What a lapse in judgemet to try to fix battery cables with the other battery still attached.

 

[Ozymandias]

I think you could've fried different parts, my opinion is go to a trustworthy dealer and let them diagnose it properly with the wiTech.
There is so much of electronic involved and who know where it is shortened out, could be more then one place.
I see a neverending story doing this yourself without the equipment.

 

[Timd32]

Check out www.car-part.com

They have the local yards, find a local place maybe explain your issue and they might work with you on a parts truck.

Anyone know if 1500's are interchangeable for these ABS parts?

 

[MGreer]

Fuse #6 supplies power to the 14 pin connector at the abs module. I went out and ran a few tests on my truck. With the #6 fuse in there is power to pin 7 and 14 on the large abs plug, the rest of the pins are dead. Pins 7 and 14 are the two at the far left of the plug looking at it with the red locking clip on top. #7 is in the top row and #14 is in the bottom row.
With the #6 fuse out the prong closest to the battery has power and the prong on the left has nothing. You can test these with a test light or a dvvm. If you know someone with an autoenginuity or a scan tool that can read abs codes that might give some insight on where to look. The black 4 pin connector goes to the front wheel speed sensors.
Keep us updated

 

[Crunch]

One thing you might try is disconnecting the connectors from the ABS unit and see if the the #6 fuse still pops. If it doesn't, you can be reasonably sure that the problem is in the ABS unit. If it does, the problem is going to be in the ABS unit, or downstream from the ABS unit.