I need help!

[Timd32]

So I read up on Fuse 51, thats called the IOD fuse and its a disconnect for shipping the truck it can help reduce battery draw....

Here is the wiring to the cluser with some other fuses.

I was looking and wondered why 51 did not show up here....

 

[Ozymandias]

On your Truck the BCM is directly adapted onto the Fusebox, sometimes this multiple pin connection gets bad over time.
Check this out by disconnecting it and watch closely to the pins for corrosion.
Sometimes people get short time results by putting some washers under the screws, that sets the pins in a different depth into the connector.
Use Dielectric grease on it.

 

[Timd32]

Yeah something fried when the wires shorted out. Reading some more sounds like the PCM controls most of what you describe that is no longer working. 20A is a huge fuse size does not take much to burn out a module.

But here are some more fuses to look at.

I still think Mopar1973man.com has more info and a very good code list if you have the numbers you can go there and get a ton of info on the code diagnostics. For like $5 or $8 to be a paid member it's information overload and you can repost you last findings there to save sometime, if you don't find what you need easily.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Could this be a bad starter (contacts and/or brushes worn out)?

 

[Timd32]

Could this be a bad starter (contacts and/or brushes worn out)?

They shorted out the wires, possibly when the truck was running and it died and has not come back to life.

If anyone know a trick to checking PCM and ECM on 04 with no tools. Thats what would help. At fused 20A spiking the DC there are known issues where you could fry the PCM, even with the battery failure, this thing has had like 9 lives. The ECM are pretty documneted to have known issues. I read more PCM could fail on a voltage spike, ECM just fail....

 

[Melissa M. Miller]

The starter was replaced in May this year. Truck would not even try to start then. I'm fairly certain this thing has a short somewhere which caused the failure of both batteries, alternator, starter, and the crossover cable all within the 1.5 years I have owned it. I love my truck and I need it for work, but she has a tendency to leave me stranded. Which I don't like at all. And now this.

 

[Melissa M. Miller]

On your Truck the BCM is directly adapted onto the Fusebox, sometimes this multiple pin connection gets bad over time.
Check this out by disconnecting it and watch closely to the pins for corrosion.
Sometimes people get short time results by putting some washers under the screws, that sets the pins in a different depth into the connector.
Use Dielectric grease on it.

Do you know of a trick to get the fuse panel out? I can't seem to get it disconnected.

 

[Timd32]

 

[Ozymandias]

Thanks Tim!

 

[Melissa M. Miller]

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Thank you for this info. I'll see what I can find with this.

 

[Ozymandias]

And you need to restart from scratch, you need TWO tested good Batterys that have at least 12.8V fully charged after sitting for 2 hours.
Not one Battery and not 12.4V or something else.
Then the Crossover cable and all the connections need to be Stock, not something that was meant for a Mitsubishis HiFi.

Go to Genos and buy a full set of wires including the connectors.
Then take out that EVR stuff, that just messes up the trucks electronics, your OEM charging system is quiet sophisticated and not as dumb as just a voltage regulator.
And set back the ground wires were they have to be.

For information only, as soon as you switch on the Ignition, your grid heater pulls a heavy 160A from the batterys, without even cranking.
Your Batterys and wires need to withstand that.

And for another occasion, if a battery blows up, please check what was the reason for that, there is always one, just replacing a blown battery is nonsens.
Sorry had to say that.

 

[Ozymandias]

Oh, and you can drive on with even one battery in an emergency. Both batterys are needed during winter time.
But the bad battery needs to be disconnected, otherwise that trick doesn't work.

 

[Melissa M. Miller]

Finally an update. There is no power to the fuel pump, ecm, or OBDUI.I know this is a problem others have had. Does this help with diagnosis?

 

[Ozymandias]

To me, you need to give it to a shop now that has the proper tool.
It can be either the PDC or the adjacent BCM.
Without diagnostic tools I can just guess which one is bad, and they are both expensive, on the plus side, both can be rebuilt by trusted companys.