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2015 Driveline Vibration

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I bought a 2015 SRW 3500 4x4 and okay, okay so it's NOT a diesel. Trust me, if it wasn't for the RUST up here in NE I would still be driving my '03 Diesel (I miss that low end torque). It was ready on a weekday and no one was around to give me a ride to the dealer so I took my International 9100 and equipment trailer to pick it up. Once home, I decided that the Firestone AT's were not aggressive enough for plowing and so I purchased some BF Goodrich K02's. I drove it 2 miles to the tire shop and had them switched out. I thought I would be a good way to sell the Firestones with only 12 miles on them. I started working a construction project about 100 miles one way two days after the Goodrich tires were installed. While driving on the highway at about 70mph, a vibration started. You could feel it in the seat and see the water cooler I place on the floor jiggling (front to rear). It was worse at different points and it seemed like it was worse when the highway had a slight right curve. I took the truck back to the tire shop and they spent extra time rebalancing the tires. Even the owner was out there, hands on. However, the problem was still there. I searched the internet and found some people having issues with these tires (too aggressive? defective? who knows). Since the owner handled the last rebalance and I saw these internet posts, I was convinced it was the tires. The tire shop took them back and fortunately (or not) I still had the original Firestones and had them re-installed.
Low and behold (you got it!) the problem was still there. So, back to the dealer I go. The local dealer (not the selling dealer) did the road force balance thing (while I waited...5hrs!). The mechanic brought it around front and said "I just took it for a ride... your all set" but, it was his parting words I found foreboding "if you have to bring it back for the same thing, I suggest you leave it for the day". I knew right there it wasn't "fixed". Sure as hell, the next day on my 100 mile trip to work it was jiggling away. Well, I decided to take it back to the selling dealer. A nice smaller place where I sort of new the owner from my 10 years of selling Dodge product at a dealership my father-in-law co-owned.
Once there, the mechanic and I took it for a ride. I had done some analyzing on my own and found that when traveling at 65mph and rapidly accelerated to 72-74mph you could get it to come right in. "Yup" said the mechanic "feels like a tire". Okay, so they rebalance the tires. "Oh ya...couple of them were off". Really? Your using a standard balancer where the last guy road force balanced and they're off. Okay...let's go for a ride. Surprise! No change. "Boy" says the mechanic in the passenger's seat "I can really feel it over hear. Feels like it's right under my feet. Let's put the spare on it and see if it goes away". Yah...you guessed it...no change. "We're going to replace the driveshaft" Okay. A week later and one new driveshaft....no change. "We've got some 2500's coming in two weeks. We'll swap tires/rims and see if that's it". So the 2500's come in and I go down to check it out. Same wheels (steel w/chrome overlay), same size (18"), same name, same tread. "Before you swap these to my truck can I test drive this one?" "Sure". Mind you, this is a 2016, 2500, 5.7, 4x4, regular cab, with coil spring rear suspension. Mine is a 2015, 3500, SRW, 6.4, 4x4, regular cab, with leaf spring rear suspension. I get up on the highway and hit the magic speed and I'll be dam if it didn't do it and even worse than mine!!
I'll leave out all of the phone calls to the RAM Customer service line but, I will tell you I was asked if the it was better when towing something. I asked a few probing questions and finally ascertained that I was not the only call they've had on this issue. So what was the "official" answer from the local rep? "Operates as designed". Really, please tell me what part or parts were designed to shake my butt at 70mph because I'd like to remove them.
Let me just say since high school I've owned and maintained/repaired a '74, '75, 86 (new), 91 (diesel 1yr old), '03 (diesel, new), and now a 2015 (gas, new) and all DODGES!! I sold them from 1986 to 1996 and knew them very well (I ordered all of the inventory). So, I know it's not the tires, nor the rims, nor the driveshaft. Where does this leave me? Well, let just say I'm reading the fine print on the MA state Lemon Law with pen in hand. I have my suspicions on what is going on & I plan on doing some further investigating as I complete the arbitration form. I'm putting this out here on the TDR to see if this is happening on diesel standard cabs and 4-dr cabs as well as trucks equipped with the Aisin transmission. I would love to hear from anyone that's experiencing this issue. It appears Chrysler is going to go all "GM ignition switch" on this. At least for now.
 
I will say it again, find a dealer with a vibration analyzer so they can quit guessing as to the cause. If it isn't the Dodge dealer, the GM or Ford dealer may have one they can borrow.
 
It measures the frequency of the vibration so you are chasing the right part. For instance in a drive line you can have a first order (one vibration per rotation), second order (two vibrations per rotation), third order vibration and so on. The two most common are first and second, first is caused by out of balance, second is caused by improper drive line angles. So until you know what your chasing, you can't fix it. That is why so many technicians throw a drive line at it and it does not fix it, because it really has a second order vibration. To complicate things, the engine vibrations (third order from 6 cylinder firing frequency) can interact with the drive line vibrations (first order) and create drones or secondary vibrations.
The tool takes the guesswork out of the equation.
 
SAG2: sounds interesting but, the dealer has no clue nor did the factory service rep offer such a tool. Can you provide a picture of one? What I'm suspecting is there is insufficient or under sized drive line mounts. The transfer case has a huge tail shaft and the entire unit is unsupported. It is counter balanced by the transmission and engine. I'm wondering when the rear axle catches a series of bumps at highway speeds that it is giving a quick upward jolt on the transfer case before the splines can compensate for the force and the transfer case gets into a rapid short-stroke up/down vibration. When it does it, it feels like it's right under the seat.
 
I don't have a photo of one, but there is an MTS 4100, or an EVA for Electronic Vibration Analyzer. If your dealer doesn't have one, the local Ford or Chevy dealer may have one as they were a required special tool for some franchises.
 
I have a 2015 3500srw Cummins Asian and at 70 to 75 mph it was vibrating in the body not steering wheel. The dealer balanced the tires and it got better but its still there. It seems to get worst the longer you drive it at highway speeds.
 
Throw me in the "truck vibrates" gang. Brief run down on what I have done:
2013 Crew Cab Cummins/Aisin 4x4 DRW.
Replaced tires and new ones road forced, still vibrates, considerably better.
Replaced rear shackles with rubber Sulastics, noticeable improvement, still vibrates.
Replaced shocks with Bilsteins, improved ride, vibration still there, maybe a little better?
Added centramatic permanent wheel balancers and had tires re-road forced around 20,000 miles, better but still a noticeable vibration.

I'm comparing the vibration to my '14 2500 68rfe Crew Cab 4x4 with coils. The 2500 has no vibration, smooth as butter all the time.
I went to the dealer and test drove a new 3500drw Aisin 4x4 over the exact same road with my dad along, we got out of my 3500 and into the new one back to back. My 3500 rides MUCH better than the new one, I was shocked at the difference! The new vibrates considerably worse than mine, although mine still vibrates.

My theory:
The new frames are so ridiculously strong they don't allow for any flex whatsoever, every bump the rear end hits sends oscillations through the frame and into the seats. I can actually feel it over a bridge expansion joint, it shudders much worse then lightens up, but it's never far till the next minor bump so it doesn't fully go away.
Last year I was able to drive on a stretch of highway that was just resurfaced, truck didn't vibrate at all until I would hit a bridge at which point it would vibrate awhile then go away.

I've talked to Kelderman and they say a full rear suspension replacement with their air ride system fixes the problem, but they want to sell a system, would they really admit if it still vibrates? Dunno. The local install shops for Kelderman have never done a new one ton so they have no clue, nor did they even bother calling me back with an installed price, needless to say if I buy one it won't be from the local guys.

Would LOVE to really know what is causing this and get it fixed!
 
Throw me in the "truck vibrates" gang. Brief run down on what I have done:
2013 Crew Cab Cummins/Aisin 4x4 DRW.
Replaced tires and new ones road forced, still vibrates, considerably better.
Replaced rear shackles with rubber Sulastics, noticeable improvement, still vibrates.
Replaced shocks with Bilsteins, improved ride, vibration still there, maybe a little better?
Added centramatic permanent wheel balancers and had tires re-road forced around 20,000 miles, better but still a noticeable vibration.

I'm comparing the vibration to my '14 2500 68rfe Crew Cab 4x4 with coils. The 2500 has no vibration, smooth as butter all the time.
I went to the dealer and test drove a new 3500drw Aisin 4x4 over the exact same road with my dad along, we got out of my 3500 and into the new one back to back. My 3500 rides MUCH better than the new one, I was shocked at the difference! The new vibrates considerably worse than mine, although mine still vibrates.

My theory:
The new frames are so ridiculously strong they don't allow for any flex whatsoever, every bump the rear end hits sends oscillations through the frame and into the seats. I can actually feel it over a bridge expansion joint, it shudders much worse then lightens up, but it's never far till the next minor bump so it doesn't fully go away.
Last year I was able to drive on a stretch of highway that was just resurfaced, truck didn't vibrate at all until I would hit a bridge at which point it would vibrate awhile then go away.

I've talked to Kelderman and they say a full rear suspension replacement with their air ride system fixes the problem, but they want to sell a system, would they really admit if it still vibrates? Dunno. The local install shops for Kelderman have never done a new one ton so they have no clue, nor did they even bother calling me back with an installed price, needless to say if I buy one it won't be from the local guys.

Would LOVE to really know what is causing this and get it fixed!

What air pressure are you running in the rear tires. Snoking
 
Ok, I don't know if this will apply to your truck, but I have an 04.5 I bought new,and from day one it had a 70mph vibe. At the time I was working for a major truck manufacturer, "installing drivelines". My truck has a center carrier bearing, and the universal joint to the second drive shaft is a foot behind the carrier. The second drive shaft is at a pretty good angle to the rear end and under acceleration or pulling a load the axle will actually rotate down further increasing the angle. With the universal this far from the carrier bearing it is like trying to use a swivle socket on an extension and not holding up next to the socket. (creating a vibration.) I bought Longer grade 8 bolts and four 1/4 inch flat strap steel and spaced my center carrier down to lessen the angle from the carrier to the axle. My vibration is gone. I don't know if this will work in your setup, just thought I would mention it.. Good luck
 
What do you suggest snoking?
What do you run?

I it is unclear what truck you ended you with. I am running 65 in the front and 46 empty in the rear. With 2600 lbs of pin weight and 270 of hitch I will run around 70 in the rear.

My truck weighs in at 8220 with me and a few empty plastic garage cans. SNOKING
 
I it is unclear what truck you ended you with. I am running 65 in the front and 46 empty in the rear. With 2600 lbs of pin weight and 270 of hitch I will run around 70 in the rear.

My truck weighs in at 8220 with me and a few empty plastic garage cans. SNOKING


Have you looked at your weight chart for your tires? You may be running with too little air for the load.
 
Have you looked at your weight chart for your tires? You may be running with too little air for the load.

Here are the chart number for the LT275/70R18E's

_________Combined
35/2070 = 4140
40/2270 = 4540
45/2470 = 4940
50/2680 = 5360
55/2840 = 5680
60/3020 = 6040
65/3195 = 6390
70/3360 = 6720
75/3530 = 7060
80/3640 = 7280


SNOKING
 
Last edited:
Here are the chart number for the LT275/70R18E's

_________Combined
35/2070 = 4140
40/2270 = 4540
45/2470 = 4940
50/2680 = 5360
55/2840 = 5680
60/3020 = 6040
65/3195 = 6390
70/3360 = 6720
75/3530 = 7060
80/3640 = 7280


SNOKING


Looks like 65 is a good number!
 
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